Trip planned Atlantic Provinces via Trans Labrador Hwy.

SeatoSea

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Planning trip along Atlantic Provinces Circle, via rt 389 to Trans Labrador Hwy to Mealy Mt. NP., To Blanc Sablon, to remaining provinces. Estimate about 12 week travel time in new Hawk. Any tips on what to bring, where to stay, what to see, guide services etc..? Have been thinking about purchasing annual pass for Canada NP, good for two years. Have made ferry reservation at Port Au Basque to Port North Sydney, and the spouse has gotten fly netting, so the die is cast.
Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
Sea to Sea


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We took a Newfoundland trip and returned home via the Trans-Lab and Quebec 389 in 2010. We spent most of our month-long trip in Newfoundland and had to get home so kinda buzzed through Labrador and Quebec but loved the trip.

I don't have any special insights but thought I'd post a few thoughts. I'm sure you've done plenty of research to even be considering the trip so you may have already covered these items. Please forgive me if the items below seem obvious to you....

Lots of good info here on the Tourism Labrador website. (And, hey, there's news.... route 500 is now paved!)

Confirm that your GPS has maps for Canada. I say this after noticing that Garmins of the same model number may be pre-loaded with North America basemaps or may only have the Continental US basemap.

Figure out what you're going to do about your cell phone in Canada (if anything). Cell phones don't work on much of your route of course but you may want it for places that do. On my last trip to Canada I thought I'd just go to Walmart and buy one of the $10 Tracfone pre-paid phones like we have in the US. But the cheapest was something like $60 plus minutes and it wasn't clear if coverage would be there for my purposes so I just went without. I don't tend to make reservations or call for information so that wasn't an issue for us.

Maps-- I like to have a map-book and think I used the MapArt Road Atlas for Atlantic Canada (this one, I think). But on my trip to Ontario and Quebec last summer I bought one of the BackRoad MapBooks series and liked it much better. The one for Newfoundland and Labrador is here .

Sat-phone. We took advantage of the free loaner sat-phone offer you see on the Tourism Labrador website. It was indeed as simple as walking in and asking for one and returning it on the other end. The only thing to think about here is what happens if there's not one available or it turns out to be broken or critical parts missing. I believe they do a reasonable job of checking them but you never know. Also, please note it's only available on a portion of your overall route.

Do you need a satellite messenger (Spot or Inreach devices) ? This one comes down to the comfort level with the prospect of being out of touch for a significant period of time. Some consider the risk of needing it not worth the price or will consider the risk part of the adventure. Some have responsibilites back home (like fragile elders) or may want to send "I'm OK" messages back to friends and family. Ours is the latter case so I had a Spot at the time and now have an Inreach Explorer I'd definitely take on a trip like that.

Power for your devices. This one isn't specific to Canada but you may want to think through all your battery-powered devices and how you'll keep them charged. Think about charging capacities, connectivity (cords and plug types) and when they will be charged for the rechargables and what batteries you'll need for the non-rechargables. If your truck's 12-v receptacles all turn off when you turn off the key, consider whether you need to add a 12v receptacle with clamp-on connectors so you can continue recharging off the truck's battery. Also, consider what devices need powered at once in your truck while driving and whether you need a 12v socket-splitter to keep devices working and/or charging simultaneously. Also, consider how you'll jump-start your truck if you happen to do something stupid and kill its starter battery or come upon someone who did that stupid thing. Jumper cables? Micro-Start?

Oncoming truck traffic. Portions of your route are likely to be under construction. On our trip we hit a section in Quebec with 10-wheeler dump trucks who liked to drive very fast and of course in dusty conditions the dust sometimes would complefely obscure my view. They also threw a lot of gravel at us and we had windshield damage (spawls and cracks, not breakage). About the only thing I could do was look for a place to pull off when I'd see an oncoming truck (and thats not possible very often) or slow way down to minimize the closing speed between us.

Stay out of the marbles at speed. The gravel roads are generally good and it's easy to find yourself driving over the speed limit. But sometimes the road will have loose gravel at the edges that can act like marbles under your tires, i.e.,, put you into a slide if you venture into them. This tends to happen on a curve. Swing a little wide in a curve at speed and you can find yourself passing your own tail-lights. We saw the aftermath of a horrible two-vehicle accident miles from nowhere which I suspect had something to do with loss of control in the marbles.

Low and/or soft road shoulders. In some places the road surface is significantly higher than the shoulder so you can't pull off. An oncoming truck can seem awfully big and has right of way but you definitely don't want a wheel to go off that edge. The tourism site also warns of soft shoulders.

Bugs-- We had no issues in Newfoundland but did in Labrador. And that was in September. I remember talking to a guy in a coffee shop in Goose Bay who told me the bugs sometimes get so thick he can't see the other side of the street out the shop's window. I'd say our problems were just a minor annoyance but you may want to consider some type of screen-tent to avoid spending most of your camping time in your camper or truck (depending on when you go). The other thought is to get on the water in buggy areas.... perhaps take a coastal tour at the Mealy Mountains rather than go inland (just a thought-- you'll probably want to inquire locally).

Parks Canada Annual Pass- We bought an annual pass that year and my memory of it was it wasn't worth the cost unless you like to visit both parks and historic sites for the Newfoundland and Labrador trip. I was surprised to see it's a two-year pass (ours wasn't) but on further research I see that's because Canada plans to offer free admission to its parks in 2017 as part of it's 150th anniversary celebration. We've also bought the pass for our trips in western canada and felt we did get our value there. The big win for us, though, was that at the time they'd give you credit for any receipts you had showing previous admissions payments. I happened to learn that after buying three days worth of admissions and I still had the receipts and a case of the regrets for not buying the annual pass. I took those receipts to the park office and they treated them just like cash... I just had to pay the difference to get an annual pass.

Road signs- in Quebec, words on road signs are in French. They are typically accompanied by international symbols but you may not be familiar with those either. Here's a quick guide to the more common French words on them.

Other suggestions that come to mind:

If possible, take the free hydro-station tour in Churchill Falls. I see it's currently shown as not available but it's not clear why or whether it may be available by the time you go.

Try the Screech in Newfoundland.

Have a Jigg's Dinner in Newfoundland. Typically Sundays.

Consider a side-trip to Saint Pierre island, a French territory off the coast of Newfoundland.... just a ferry ride away to France.

And here's how to pronounce "Newfoundland" like the locals.

-OC
 
Old Crow Tres Bien!!!
You made my day, thanks for all the info especially about the marbles & communications.
Have planned to spend some time at Mealy Mt and been talking with a guide service already. Planning to spend at least 3 weeks in NF, probably a hotel in St John (last corner of the continent for me), before heading to NS , PEI, Fundy and finish up in Quebec City(hopefully my French will improve as we spend time).
Sounds like you had a great experience that I hope is the same for us. Thanks so much for taking the time to respond to the post. Will report back as we can!


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Re cellphones. I think the best deal seems to be prepaid with Speakout, available at Seven-Eleven Markets. There still won't be coverage in a lot of Newfoundland, but it looks like the maritimes are fairly well covered. If it works with your existing phone you can just get a SIM card for $10 Canadian (sob--7 and change US). If anyone knows a better deal I'd like to know, but this is what I do with my travels between the two countries.

https://www.speakout7eleven.ca/support/coverage


This sounds like a wonderful trip. I'm green with envy. and look forward to reading reports.
 
Thank you for the tip, will look into the option. I Use iPhone 6+ that might be an issue.


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N'kwala- Good one! I didn't think of a SIM card but do indeed have a phone I used on a previous foreign trip that I believe I can use. Looks like it would be $10 for the card, a $25 minimum for airtime, the minutes roll over, and they're good for a year. That works. Thanks!

SeatoSea- Yes, indeed, our trip was a great experience and I'm looking forward to hearing about yours.

A few more items for you.....

Watch out for the moose, particularly on Newfoundland. There are 125,000 of them there, resulting in 500+ moose-vehicle collisions each year. We tried to avoid driving at night and were extra vigilant when we did have to.

I see the IcebergFinder web site for Newfoundland isn't active yet for this year but you may want to make a note of the link. There's also an Iceberg Alert signup there which would get you unsolicited (emailed) reports of icebergs coming down Iceberg Alley. And I see they're already sending out sightings on Twitter.

The Maritimes have a rich tradition of good music and theatre and we have great memories of sampling them. I guess that's just a general reminder to keep an eye open for opportunities as you travel. I don't think we had much luck finding a consistent source of online info. We just tried to make it a habit to read bulletin boards at coffee shops, community centers, libraries, visitor centers, grocery stores, etc.

Years ago we took one of the Tidal Bore trips in the Bay of Fundy and thought it was a lot of fun riding the rapidly-shifting standing waves formed as the tidal bore coming in meets the Shubenacadie River going out. The spot where we first boarded the Zodiac was under 35 feet of water when we returned a few hours later.

-Old Crow
 
Old Crow: Thanks again,
Let's see if I got this right "noof'nland" just practicing over coffee this morning.
Have seen the adds for the tidal ride and was thinking of doing it, you've now made it a bucket item.

We heard of the Iceberg watch, hopefully if we kayak we'll get close to one

N'Kwala: have an old Blackberry (RIM) from my working life maybe it accepts the simm card, thanks again for the phone tip. As I don't have a Garman would the 711 phone with maps work or am I limiting myself due to coverage?

Have to admit from all the suggestions we're getting excited!

Pick up the Hawk this Tuesday, and plan several "functional check trips" , along the Shenandoah & Great Smokies prior to Long trip.





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SeatoSea - We did NB, NS, Newf., and Lab. in 2003 with a previous camper (Hallmark) and in 2011 we went to NB, NS, and PEI with our current ATC. Due to time constraints on the 2003 trip, we did not spend nearly enough time in Newfoundland or Labrador and plan to return in early 2017, so are watching this thread carefully. You are getting some great tips from Old Crow and N'kwala. One highlight of our time in Newfoundland was a visit to the early Viking village of L'Anse aux Meadows near St. Anthony in the far north. I highly recommend that you include this stop on your itinerary.
 
Missing link, it seems everyone loves Labardor and Noof'nland; we had St Anthony's planned for our 1st stop getting off the ferry from Blanc Sablon. How was the road, can imagine they only improved it.
Also planning stops at terra nova, Cape Bonavista, Grates Cove, St John, Trepassey Bay (possible day trip to France- St-Pierre if it's safe to leave the camper), Grand Falls Windsor, Gros Morne, Blow me Down PP, cape St George before we leave Island.
Plan on Biking, Hiking, Boating and just looking.

Thanks for the suggestion.




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More.....

Looking back on my previous post, I probably should have broken down my comments into two parts--- the Trans-Labrador/QC389 portion of the itinerary and the rest of the trip.

The 'rest of the trip' portion (Newfoundland, Nova Scotia, PEI, etc) is straightforward, travel-wise. It's pretty much the same travel environment we've all grown accustomed to. There will be paved roads built to international standards with relatively close gas stations, auto-repair services, towing services, restaurants, campgrounds, etc, and emergency responses measured in minutes (for the most part).

The Trans-Lab, though, is a different story. If we put the end points into Google Maps, we see the distance from Baie-Comeau, QC to Forteau (the ferry to Newfoundland) is over 1000 miles. The round-trip leg to Cartwright (to get to the Mealy Mountains) from the Cartwright junction is another 120 miles. That's 1120 miles in a very remote area with few services. The roads generally have a decent surface but gas stations are up to 250 miles apart, there's no cell-phone service, emergency response is likely to be hours away no matter how urgently needed, and a tow bill may have a bottom line figure in the thousands of dollars. Most likely one will just have a long drive and everything will be fine. But if something does go wrong, the trip could get very inconvenient and expensive. As they say, plan for the worst and hope for the best!

That portion of the itinerary is the type of trip where you should be very confident of your jacking, tire-changing, and tire-plugging skills and are confident of your spare tire(s!), your tire-plugging kit, and your tire-inflation gear of choice. You're prepared to spend a night (or a week) broken down many miles from anything or anybody, if necessary (thank goodness you have a camper!). You're prepared as best you can be for large numbers of black flies and mosquitos. You have a satellite-based means to contact emergency-response and automotive services and have contact numbers for them with you and a means to give them your GPS position. You have a first aid kit of supplies likely to be needed for routine medical issues as well as supplies possibly needed for trauma situations such as auto accidents. You have a reasonably-complete tool kit and spares such as worm-clamps, baling wire, duct tape, fluids, etc. You are confident in your weather-protection gear and animal-protection gear and strategies (i.e., you have a Canada-legal pepper spray and you know what to do in the unlikely event of encountering aggressive wildlife). You're confident in your vehicle's roadworthiness and its ball joints, universal joints, bearings, belts, hoses, and filters (fuel, oil, and air) and know it has the fuel range necessary for the trip. You have the paper/book maps (as your primary or as backup to a failed GPS) and have the skills to use them. Optimally, this trip would be done with multiple vehicles.

You may indeed be ready for that (I have no idea, of course) but I wanted to be sure to give you a clearer idea of my opinion of that particular portion of your proposed itinerary.

ALSO- Have a look at this clip showing several things I mentioned earlier. Note the road surface and the difference between level of the road surface and the surrounding terrain and what happens when car departs road (the section I have in mind is 7:00 to about 9:40).

-Old Crow
 
Old "Wise" Crow,
A sobering editorial, and well noted.

When you encounter trucks do they generally show up in packs or do they space themselves out. We're traveling in an off-road f150 with 18" ATE rated (new) tires and beefed up suspension. If we manage a careful speed I'm hopeful I won't be pushed to far to a side. As time is on our side we won't be trying to go far any given day. Will dry camp when comfortable (hopefully with fewer flys & nats).
I had an opportunity in 68 to be TDY (USAF) Goose Bay, remember having a few tire changes(c130) with the flies feasting on us. Thinking back it wasn't that much fun!
Will be carrying bear spray, probably should add pepper spray.
I was planning on using the rented satellite phones when made available and researching the 711 phone GSM. I have a CDMA phone but don't expect to get to much use of it. Have gotten my hands on a few good road maps as well.

I've been in contact with a guide service in Cartwright, who has been updating me to road condition and weather. Having given them an arrive date I feel as though someone will be looking out for us!

Again I appreciate the second look, please keep your ideas coming, there's really no substitute for wisdom & experience.
Denis


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Bear spray is a Good Idea. If you're carrying pepper spray don't announce it at the border. It's legality seems to be uncertain. :oops:
 
That and the Whiskey

Do you think truckers & Loggers take off on Canada Day??




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SeatoSea said:
When you encounter trucks do they generally show up in packs or do they space themselves out?

Will be carrying bear spray, probably should add pepper spray.
Glad to see you weren't put off by my previous post.

Re: trucks- I didn't notice 18-wheelers traveling together but there were many 10-wheeler dump trucks in some construction zones (depending on what they're doing). The 10-wheeler drivers in Quebec drove faster than any others I've ever seen. I sometimes had multiple dump trucks in the mirror and multiple oncoming, all pedal-to-the-medal. It was a bit nerve-wracking but only lasted for the project.

Re: pepper spray. I should have used the term 'bear spray'. I use the terms interchangeably and should be more careful given Canada's prohibition of sprays designed to be used against humans.

-Old Crow
 
Thanks again to all, so far everyone has offered great useful advise. So keep it coming as mY thick skin can take a lot!


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Great thread! This is one of our bucket list trips in a few years.

In looking at the video of the Trans Lab I was wondering what camping opportunities were available...I'm sure there must be some but was wondering if there were designated campgrounds or just boondocking sites...

Thanks!


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smlobx said:
.... I was wondering what camping opportunities were available...I'm sure there must be some but was wondering if there were designated campgrounds or just boondocking sites...
There are a few campgrounds and you might start your research with this map of Newfoundland/Labrador and use the basic info for further web research. On our east-to-west trip, we stayed at Pinware River Provincial Park on the eastern end. We boondocked in a stone quarry somewhere on the long trek west from Port Simpson and another night near the Churchill River outside of Goose Bay and I'm not quite sure where at Labrador City. At Churchill Falls, we were permitted to 'camp' in the parking lot beside the arena and were even encouraged to plug in to the electrical outlets there, all free. And at Baie Comeau we blundered onto a park owned by a church that allowed us to stay the night for a small donation to the church... we only found it because we saw someone camped there and asked.

As you drive the Trans-Lab outside of the towns it seems there aren't many places to pull off but eventually something comes up, typically something created by or associated with road building or maintenance. I don't remember many side roads but my focus was mostly on traveling through.
 
smlobx said:
Great thread! This is one of our bucket list trips in a few years.

In looking at the video of the Trans Lab I was wondering what camping opportunities were available...I'm sure there must be some but was wondering if there were designated campgrounds or just boondocking sites...

Thanks!


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Atlantic Circle:
We came up on the NW side of the St Lawrence to 389, you'll stop mostly at dispersed sites, but aT Manic 2 there is a nice private campground. You can hook up or go back down to Lake side for privacy. We got in late so we stayed in the water & power site. Had clean showers and laundry set up. About 50 miles north of Beau Come. Heading north 389 and after Manic 5 it's all dirt until Labordor City. We found a spot about 10 miles east of the Mine.
From Labardor City to Goose Bay heading east is about 6hrs very easy road, paved. We boondocked outside of town. Pretty country, and note we were warned that a Polar Bear was spotted on the road earlier in the month. Saw Moose early in the morning. A New Hydroelectric dam being built so look for heavy trucks etc.
Heading south toward Cartwright and Pinware River, we stopped at Red Bay UNESCO whaling site. Park Manager asked if we just came down the "Dirt Road" , I said you mean the Trans Lab Highway, just note: it was the worst dirt potholes and washouts road for a good 7 hrs. Camped at Pinware Provencial Park, very clean and fully serviced. Camped along the bay and watched whales until dark. If your a fisher person the river has runs of Atlantic Salmom.
We Crossed over to Newfoundland, it's about 1 1/2 hour ferry ride.
We spent a month in Newfoundland as "The Rock" as it's called is a beautiful place to be outdoors. We went to Fogo Island , end of the "Flat Earth", camped in the North, East, West and South, mostly Provençal Parks, as each has its own identity. From Viking Village to millions of year old fossils, to standing on the mantel of the earth. We saw Moose, as Whales, icebergs and fiords. Fresh Fish and lobster right off the boat every night, except when we ate Moose Steak. Spent a couple of nights in St John, fun little city on the edge of NA continent. Took the ferry to Nova Scotia and finished the circle via Cabot Trail, New Brunswick, Fundy Bay, Out to Fillion NP and the Gaspe.
Ended the Canadian trip in Quebec City.

Sorry for the delay in following up on this trip. My photos cannot give it justice, just go!!!
 

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