Nice to hear that battery is doing well for you.Ronin said:
Fantastic info - based on your results I could probably run my TF51 for 5 days as long as it's not crazy hot. I'll plan on setting the temp to 32 degrees right from the start. Your tests are a great resource - thanks for sharing. BTW - do you have to remove the entire reflectix cover to open the lid?ski3pin said:
The reflectix cover was in our first camper. It was constructed with a cover that opened with the lid.Ronin said:
What kind of connector do you use? Basic trailer connector or something more elaborate? I had spoken to a tech at Truckfridge about this and he said he wasn't allowed to recommend anything other than using the lighter plug connection. Probably for legal reasons!?Squatch said:
Squatch,Squatch said:Yes I bought a 2nd 12v power cord. I cut the end off and used a way bigger than needed Anderson power plug connector. I used the 50 amp just because I had them in stock and only needed to buy a couple of reducing sleeves for 16 gauge to crimp it on.
Same deal I wanted to keep a 2nd cable for using the fridge in other vehicles if I wanted.
In my initial tests I had to use the 2nd 12v cutoff setting on the fridge instead of the 1st one when I used the lighter plug. The lighter plug works fine but there is just enough voltage drop at the startup surge that the fridge would go into error mode on the higher voltage setting.
I ran a heavy 8 gauge duplex marine cable to both the inside and outside of the camper at the front. This is from the battery through a breaker. It powers the fridge inside but can be used for anything I need to power such as temp use for my compressor. Overkill for the fridge but voltage drop is not a concern.
I bought my power pole connectors from Powerwerx.
Thanks for walking me through this. I should have good access to the back of the fridge when I pull it out on the slider or through the side door/vent on the outside. I'm thinking I shouldn't cut the TF51 power cord right away just so I don't have any warranty issues.Squatch said:That's correct. I just cut off the lighter connector and crimped on a power pole. When you get your fridge call Truckfridge and buy an extra 12 volt cord. One for the new power pole and one with lighter plug for other uses.
As for in your rig I'd pass on the new lighter socket and just put a power pole on the factory wiring. I'm "assuming" that since the 3 way uses a heater in 12 volt that the wiring and fuse/breaker are more than enough for the Truckfridge. I think the worst draw you would ever possibly see is a little over 5 amps in the max setting from the truck fridge. I'm betting the 3 way draws much more in 12 volt mode. But don't know for sure.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Realistically you could probably just cut the end off the the Truck Fridge power cord and splice it to the factory wiring. Solder and heat shrink or good crimp connectors. You don't really need the extra connector as the power cords just plug into the fridge like a power cord for your PC.
I don't know where you camp. But if you frequent campgrounds with 110 AC shore power it makes sense to run the fridge off that when parked. But you have to access the rear (hinge side) of the truck fridge because the 12 volt power cord has to be unplugged from the fridge to plug in the AC cord.
Hinge side of lid, Controls on top, power ports on the bottom near the compressor.
