Truck suggestions (four wheel camper)

CALIcamperdad said:
Granted no one is really putting much on 0-60 performance in a camper Rig but the 2.8L Diesel is a 10second machine and the f150 5L is a 7-8 second machine. My 2.5L Subaru CVT wagon is a 11second machine, just for comparison. I dont have any complaints about the Subaru it still passes and sprints into 70-80mph CA highwsy traffic just fine. Even when loaded.
And the F150 with a 3.5 eco is a 5.6 second 0-60 machine according to Car and Driver . Mine with a 1240# FWC Hawk on it with all the gear for a two week trip will do 0-60 in 6.5 seconds timed by me. I leave the Hawk on full time so no time without. http://www.caranddriver.com/ford/f-150
 
I have a 2500HD WT Crew Cab 8 foot bed with a Grandby 6.0 gas. Gets 12-13 mpg driving the speed limit with camper. Towed 9400 lbs with camper and got 8-9 mpg. Gets 16-18 mpg driving between 60 and 65 mph without camper. Added Firestone airbags to help with the 10k tow.
 
I have a 2000 Ford Ranger 4.0 l auto / 4WC Eagle on full time, 0-60 mph 15 secs [ just a guess ], combined hiway/city 15-16. :D
 
For a Hawk or Grandby, I would be skeptical buying a 1/2 ton class. Yes, it is certainly do'able. But, not without suspension modification. Just my person opinion and not trying to be argumentative folks. I will try to explain with the following comments.

One must remember, as previously mentioned, don't get stuck on the camper manufacturer's placarded weight. This is a "dry" weight. The camper is weighed when it comes of the assembly line. Your "wet" weight, will be the number after you setup your camper for camping activities. "Wet" weight can be considerably higher than "dry" weight.

Consider a gallon of water weights 8.3#, a full water tank = 166#, approximately 14% of your "dry" weight (assuming a 1200# Hawk) will be water. Then add all your "stuff". You could easily be 25-30% above your "dry" weight as your normal, hit the road, "wet" operating weight and this puts your payload around 1500#. This is generally a weight that exceeds most payload numbers for a 1/2 rated truck.

Again, yes, you can certainly modify your 1/2 ton truck's suspension to carry the payload. But, the one number you can never get around is the GCVW. This is the max weight (considering both payload and the total weight of a conventional trailer and its payload). Among other variables, GCVW refers to the weight your truck's braking system can safely stop according to federal guidelines for manufacturers.

F250/350. Yes, these are 3/4 and 1 ton trucks respectively. But there is are many more differences than simply the suspension. Axles are completely different. ECU firmware is different. The design of the ladder frame is different. While the F250 and F350 might appear the same to many, there are many F350 attributes not readily apparent walking around and looking at the truck.

I've had a F250 since 2003. A perfect truck for all my needs, until I bought a Hawk. I had to add all new leaf springs and shocks to obtain the payload capacity suitable for my loadout. I am about 500# below GCVW when loaded for a trip and carrying my KTM 350 EXC in a Joe Hauler hitch carrier. The 2003 F250 has significantly lower payload and gross combined numbers compared to modern F250s.

All in all, just a bit extra coin for a 1 ton compared to a 3/4 is more than worthy consideration IMO. A 1 ton truck will likely never leave you wanting for more payload capacity. And, you will likely never need to perform any suspension modifications.

The type of engine is a personal preference. I prefer the low end torque of the deisel for climb steep, gravel grades in the high altitude mountain. The diesel motor allows you to slowly drive up the steep grades without any stress on the motor due to the abundant torque. A 6.7L diesel is a 500,000 engine as long as you maintain it according to Ford service schedule. I have the classic 7.3L. A fantastic engine. But, it was not designed for UL Sulfur diesel fuel so MPG suffers compared to the 6.7. But, with only 98,000 on my F250, I can buy a lot of diesel fuel compared to the cost of a new F350.

Many good trucks out there to choose from. I like Ford. But, last December, I looked at the Dodge Tradesman 3500, Crew, 4x4, based on Langdon's article in Overland Journal. The Tradesman is a bare bones truck perfect for my life/camping style. Ultimately, I decided I didn't need a new truck and saved my money for another day.

Many, many good truck choices. Dig deep into the the designs of the 1/2, 3/4 and 1 ton trucks when comparison shopping.

Good luck!
 
I have to agree with my friend Advmoto 18.
Nobody ever complained about having too much truck...


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Advmoto18 missed the mark on the description of the Ford.

F250/F350 are the same truck (except the dually), same axles, same frame, same suspension (except for the rear block under the leafs and an overload spring). I would almost always recommend the F350 for a camper because it will be rated higher, but the components will be the same. You can buy an F250 with the camper package and in that case it will even come with the overload spring. The only difference in that case is the block under the springs (2" for F250 and 4" for F350).

A lot of people don't realize they are the same truck (have been for years), with different badging, but after working for one of the largest auto dealer networks on the West coast, I can assure you, they are the same truck. You would be hard pressed to find a (physical) difference in two trucks similarly equipped.

A reason not to get an F350 might be for insurance or registration reasons (the reason they offer an F350 with a 10k lbs package). Some insurance or registration, or even roadways, have different requirement/regulations/costs once you break the 10k lbs GVWR mark.
 
Ace...

Many changes since I purchased my 2003 F250. Sometimes I get stuck on the specs of my antique truck and the many differences that existed between the 7.3L Super Duty models. I should have more specific with my post which wasn't very well worded on my part attempting to convey what I meant. My apologies.

Some general notes to begin regarding the F250 and F350.

- Up til about 2004, 4 wheel drive F250s got D50s while F350s got the D60.
- F250s typically get the upper aux spring as part of a package, while F350s usually have them no matter what.
- After 2011, F250s have one fewer leaf and vacuum boosted brakes while F350s get hydro-boost (diesels only).
- V10s with factory 4.30 gearing get the Dana Super 60 7000# GAWR front axle.
- Up until at least 2008, F250 2wd - no spacer, F250 4wd - 2" spacer, F350 2wd - 2" spacer, F350 4wd - 4" spacer


Identical features according to my local Ford dealer/salesman
- Frame
- Rear Axle
- Rear main leaf pack (through 2010)
- Front springs (rating is dependent on package and engine mainly, but any ratings of spring should physically fit in a truck the relevant major year ranges of 99-04, 05-07, 08-10, 11+)
- Engines
- Wheels and tires
- Sheet metal and trim

Yet, there are payload specification differences across the model lines. For example, a F250 and a F350 both with a GVWR of 11000 have different payloads, 4220 and 3790 respectively. If you desire the Super Duty's max available GVWR of 11,500 in a crew cab, it is available only in the F350, not the F250. Of course, you can drop down to 11,400 and get the crew cab in the F250. In trucks this heavy, what's 100# reduction!

So while we may think we are getting identical F250 and F350 trucks, one needs to be aware of differing payload numbers across the various submodels as well as the variations between the F250 and F350. After all, our primary concern is safely driving our trucks with a camper full of stuff. The F250 generally has more available payload than the F350 of same sub-model type.

Finally, the one F250 v F350 spec that should jump out to anyone considering one of the heavier campers, note the Max Rear GAWR for the F250 v F350; 6290# (F250) v 7180# (F350 SRW). That is a significant variation. Most likely Ford considered the fifth wheel community (campers, horse trailers, etc) designing the rear suspension with the enhanced rear GAWR spec for the F350 even with this model's lower GVWR compared to the F250 of same sub-model. This will also ensure the F350 owner will not likely need any suspension modifications or enhancements for even the heaviest of FWC campers, especially the flatbeds.

But yes, Ace is correct, for all intents and purposes, they are the same truck. Just be mindful of the many varying payload numbers.

Ace, great point on registration! In NC, any vehicle over, I seem to recall 6700#, requires a "weighted" tag/registration. Weight is sold by the 100#. You have to have a "weighted" registration for the weight of your truck, payload, and any weight you might tow. You do not want through a DMV weight check and not have sufficient weight listed on your registration to cover your actual weight. It is a hefty fine.
 
Our 2013 F-250 - 8' bed has a 10,000 gvwr. Fully loaded (Grandby) with all persons and dog, we stopped at a CAT scale on the way to Texas. We were 10,020 or 20#'s over. Need to cut some things out. I would prefer to be around 9800 loaded. Need to re-evaluate for next trip. jd

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Another 2003 F-250 owner with a 7.3 liter diesel.....love it...only thing different would be a F-350 with a 7.3....The Gvwr is slightly more...even if there is no difference other than the block, that's worth it in my book. Planning a trip to Canada where the mounties stop you at the scales and check your gvwr off the door jamb....if you're over,.....cha ching...thank you very much :eek:

Now....if I were in the market...and I'm not...but if I were.....and I could get what I wanted.....

F-350 SRW, 4WD.....with a Cummins diesel backed up with an Allison 6 speed automatic...and a 2 speed rear end....

They don't do that ...yet.....6.0, 6.4, 6.7.......keep it up and they'll be there soon enough... :D

Maybe one day Ford will notice....gee, our diesels aren't doing so well after we dropped the 7.3 and started building them ourselves :unsure:

Weight reduction......DIET...and

Titanium sporks, lightweight plastic plates, silicon steamer, lightweight martini glasses...and only one pint of scotch...half the seasonings and freeze dried soup....only one bottle of wine...and a smaller dog
 
I just went out and looked at my F-350 SRW CC GVWR and it is 11,500#'s. It does not have any special package like camper or plow package.

As said above the F-250 / 350 are dimensionally the same truck but I feel much more comfortable with a sticker that is more than what I'll be with my new Hallmark (hopefully!).

I'll be doing a detailed report on the setup and initial purchase of the Everest when we get it in the next month or so and will include a list of weights so people can make a more informed decision.

BTW, here in VA we don't have any registration issues with being over 10,000#'s...
 
I know this thread is old but I thought I would weigh in with an opposing opinion about 1/2 ton trucks. I have a 2011 Tundra Double Cab with a hawk shell model with quite a few options (Dry weight 1153 lbs). It is fantastic on-road and I'm sure my truck would greatly outperform ANY of the 3/4 and one ton beasts mentioned in this thread off-road. I'm sure my To improve off-road performance I bought the Toyota Tundra TRD-Pro suspension and had it installed by the dealer long before I even knew what a four wheel camper was. The off-road performance and ride improvement was revolutionary. It was literally a different vehicle. When I bought the Hawk the sole suspension modification I had done is I had a new spring pack built by Boise Spring Works at a grand total cost of under $600. They absolutely nailed it! No airbags. They removed 1 of my spring leafs and added 4 leaves for a net increase of 3 leaves. I did not want airbags because I did not want to screw up the greatly improved off-road performance obtained with the TRD Pro suspension. Apparently a large part of the increased off-road performance is due to a large increase in the suspension articulation. The added down travel is as important as up travel.

I have been all over the southwest and Rocky Mountains hunting and camping since my install in early September. From windy paved mountain passes to very rough two tracks. The truck with the camper performs flawlessly. I can drive very fast on windy roads and feel completely in control. Braking is great. Then I can go off-road and crawl over rocks and such on very uneven ground with no issues. The truck with the TRD pro suspension/spring upgrade and the Hawk performs off-road much better than the truck empty prior to the TRD Pro suspension.

This is my real world experience after extensive testing during an elk hunt in WY, 3 elk hunts in the Gila and black range in NM, desert bighorn sheep in the very rocky desert along the Mexican border in NM, leaf peeping in the San Juan Mtns CO, deer hunting in Kansas, exploring canyonlands and the Henry Mountains in UT. I have loaded the heck out of the rig with two people and a lot of hunting gear and food and water for extended trips and have never felt I was overloaded. I have thousands of highway and many hundreds of gravel and off-road miles with the Hawk.


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I currently have a 2014 5.7L Tundra double Cab 4x4 and Hawk FWC. I installed Firestone Ride Right Bags just to take the slight sag out of the rear end. I don't do a lot of crazy off roading anymore, mainly dirt/gravel forestry type roads. I get around 12 mpg on the hwy and generally going 75 mph (love Nevada and Southwest speed limits). My prior truck was a 2003 Tundra 4.0L 4x4 with the same Hawk camper. It got better gas mileage but the brakes sucked so I generally had to drive slower, especially in traffic. My first brake job was at 98,000 miles and I went ahead and did the timing belt and full tuneup at the same time. The truck was never in the shop due to a problem,never had any check lights come on, and in short totally reliable. I sold it early this year and got twice as much $$ for it than any Chevy or Fords on the market- actually sold for over blue book. I used to have a 1ton Chev Dually Crew Cab and it was constantly in the shop-one blown engine,tranny problems,you name it. Without a load it felt like I was driving a rock truck. My neighbor has an F350, 4x4 diesel Crew Cab (2008?) and is on his 3rd transmission - of course each breakdown was while vacationing. I'm not opposed to Ford or Chevy, I just like the reliability of Tundra's. Unfortunately they only come in 1/2ton, so that's a deal breaker for a lot of people especially those who want a self contained hard shell camper. If I had to go domestic, I'd go with a F250 with gas engine - don't really know why I'd need a one ton with a FWC or ATC. I take my camper off when I'm not out in the wild so I would much prefer the ride of a F250 over a F350.
 
You couldn't give me an American truck these days. Well you could, but then I'd sell it for a Tundra. American trucks feel like cheap cardboard boxes on wheels


www.mulehawk.com
 
Thought I would add my 2 cents...I have a 2012 fully loaded Hawk w/o porta potty. Add two humans, one or two dogs, water, food and my gear and I'm around the 2,000++ pound wt. I had my Hawk on a 1st generation Tundra for two years and we covered 30,000+ miles. I added Airbags (due to 3" squat), E series tires, sway bar and new shocks x4. The truck did "OK", but not great. I was always reminded of this questionable combo while traveling. I know I was compromising my truck capabilities and my luck. Braking was another issue as well....

Now, I have my Hawk on a 3500 Ram CC SRW and I couldn't be happier. The sense of safety and security is worth the extra vehicle wt and physical size between a Tundra and Ram is minimal. MPG are within 1-2 mpg. Most everything underneath, the guts if you will, on the Ram is bigger and stronger. *1 ton vs. 3/4 ton...I would have gone with a 3/4 ton Ram, but I wasn't convinced that the new rear coil springs was a positive improvement vs. leaf springs (I keep my hawk on the truck all year), so I stepped (way) up to the 3500 with leaf springs. My cost from a 2500 to a 3500 was ~$500.00...no brainer to me. I'm still mindful while traveling, but the truck is not compromised and I feel better and safer overall.

Also, in California, if you keep your cab-over , self contained camper on the truck all year, you are allowed to register as a RV, which reduces fees significantly.

Lastly, I am a Toyota veteran, owned several Toyota's. If Toyota (hope they read this) made and offered a 3/4 ton with a heavy payload (Ram 2500 gas engine is ~2900 lbs.) in the U.S., I would be first in line...

Happy Trails
 
Ace! said:
I don't want to get into a pissing match, but for a while I worked for one of the largest dealer networks handling extended warranty claims, for all major brands; including US, Japanese and European. I've also got a couple of related ASE certifications. Claims I handled were for vehicles that had the original warranty expire. So, these were all longer term ownership, or used vehicles.

There is no way on God's green earth I'd choose a truck based on whether it was American or Japanese (or any other country). The truck would have to meet my needs in any other way. In addition to that, I wouldn't pick the Tundra (or any other Toyota) over another brand. They have brand loyalty because Toyota used to produce a good/better product. Toyota no longer does.
That's funny my mechanic friends say the complete opposite. And having abused my Tundra without any problems whatsoever and having had many Big 3 vehicles over the years I will never buy another American vehicle ever again.


www.mulehawk.com
 
We all have our opinions
I had a 2001 F-150 that I put 350,000 miles on. Original engine and transmission. I bought a 2013 F-250 longbed in preparation for our 2014 FWC Grandby. I'm a Ford guy through and through, just like others swear by Chevy, GMC, Toyota. To each his own. Happy Camping. jd

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Well not wanting to stir the pot..... but for what it is worth.... I had a Tacoma for 15 years and loved it. It was under powered for my Eagle but it never let me down. That said I have been waiting and waiting for Toyota to bring in a small diesel. I have friends on three continents that have the Hilux and love it. So jumped at the new Colorado 2.8 Duramax diesel 4WD long box. The Eagle needed lifting 3 " but otherwise all worked out. (I added a sway bar and airbags (same as Tacoma). I am getting 30 + mpg on highway w/o the camper 25 mpg with it on. The diesel low end torque (369 ft lbs) is remarkable. Up hill with camper and I can still easily pass. I can also tow a trailer with the camper on! It has an exhaust brake for those steep downhills. The amenities in the cabin are great though I needed a soft cushion for the hard seat. The infotainment gizmos are great. I have had zero issues for my first 5000 miles. Yes the diesel costs 3900 more. It will last a long time. The price of diesel is 5% more but I am getting 30% better mileage.
Bottom line .... I loved my Tacoma.... but in my opinion ... this is a better truck. Oh and the engine is made in Thailand, the shocks body and suspension in Mexico, the 6 speed transmission somewhere else (a new 8 speed for 2017)..... it is assembled in Indiana. So much for an American truck.... all big corps play the world.


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Just think how sparse this site would be without the plethora of threads on how to make a Toyota work with a camper.
 

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