Turnbuckles, oh those darn turnbuckles

Sharx

Advanced Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2017
Messages
67
Location
Los Gatos, CA
At the rally last weekend at Chanslor Ranch near Bodega Bay, CA, the most popularly discussed topic by far was about turnbuckles. I heard more about them over a meal than I cared for. I too have been bitten by them when I got my used Fleet back in Dec. of '16. I did not know much about them when I bought it and I found other "newbs" who had similar issues when they first got theirs. But like most, I don't make the same mistake twice. One person actually lost their camper when they broke and it fell on the freeway at speed. I have read many suggestions here about the best ones, the best ideas on how to keep them from loosening, and much more.

I had ones with a closed loop on one side, connected to the bracket on the bed with a carabiner (a spring loaded oval that opens to hook onto something then locks closed when it springs back). The other end of the turnbuckle was just a "J" hook that would be latched onto the bracket of the the camper. I let them get loose from not checking them often enough. I finally realized something was wrong when the camper was no longer tight to the back on my cab. I checked them and one "J" hook had completely cracked and was not even connected. Another hook was bent. I came to realize they failed due to much more stress to them once they got enough slack and were put under a tremendous load from the camper moving more than when they were originally tightened. My fault for sure. I needed a better way. The first thing I realized was that one end of the turnbuckle was a rounded (aka eye bolt) which looked much stronger than the "J" hook end. It also can not come unattached because it's a closed loop. But the "J" hook when loose enough can, completely separating your camper from the bed. If you lost a couple connections, yours would be the next camper rolling down the freeway. They are then latched onto a bracket that was flat piece of metal with a hole cut out of it which gave it a rectangular edge (that would be against the rounded J/eye bolt). Not exactly a perfect method for strength. But I could not find a short enough turnbuckle with eye bolts on both ends that I could hook carabiners to (you cannot hook eye bolts through the holes in the bracket because they cannot be opened) that looked strong enough for the weight they would need to hold. Going with a length that would be short enough meant having to have a very weak looking turnbuckle. When checking out the choices at the hardware store I found a heavy duty horseshoe shaped shackle with a horizontal screw pin device close the loop of it. But the best part was that I could use one on the camper bracket hole and the other one on the bed's bracket hole and put a turnbuckle with eye bolts on both ends and thread its bolt through each eye. Because they were a shorter effective length than a carabiner, I could use a beafier turnbuckle too. I then tightened the turnbuckles to hand tight and an extra revolution. Last, from the great advice here, I found the strongest looking zip ties and looped them through the bolt of the horseshoe bracket and the turnbuckle. I have checked them a few times and all 4 have not even turned a quarter of a revolution. An unattended turnbuckle WILL loosen and once it does, it will either come off the bracket or be so loose that one good jolt will break or bend a "J" hook. That corner of your rig will then move freely probably causing another turnbuckle to fail. Once a second one does the same, your camper could fall off your bed.

I should add there are many other methods some I even would consider better/stronger, but access to the area where mine are is very tight and this seems to work best. I attached pictures for reference. I hope this "scares" people into checking their turnbuckles more often, getting better ones or keeping them from loosening. A cheap piece of hardware can make for a VERY Expensive mistake if not replaced or maintained properly. Don't let your camper get loose. I have a much better piece of mind from mine now.
 

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Pretty much exactly how I've done mine, I did go to a 3/8" turnbuckle. No problems since upgrading and zip tying. Ron
 
Sharx, thanks for the reminder and solution.

Hate to say it but, the shackle pin could loosed out. Not saying it will but if there is a hole in the pin thumb tab and you can run a wire/zip tie through it and around a shackle leg then it might be more secure.
 
Yea those shackles pins could loosen up and need to be checked. Tough to do when your space is small and hard to get to. Elaborate systems are tough because you can only get one hand to them to put it together in that little space. The camper really does move around and there are pretty good forces that those turnbuckles see. Closed loop is good so you can keep the ends capitive.

You might think of a safety leash that you can clip on the bed and the camper like on cross country skies to keep runaway from happening. If your turnbuckle fails then you would see a shift in the camper and fix. The leash will keep it close.

I always had my previous 2 FWC bolted through the floor and never had to worry. Our flatbed model is also bolted through the bed.
 
Thanks for the write-up. I am going to head to the ranch and home store this weekend and check out some hardware as they have an impressive selection. I hadn't considered a broken turnbuckle, and I'll keep some spare parts in the truck.
 
Keep in mind the turnbuckle closed ends (as shown in the picture) are no stronger than the open (J) ends. They are closed only to captivate attaching hardware. If the very end of the closed end were welded or were a forged end it would be far stronger. In the second picture I see part of the turnbuckle itself and it appears to be of the extruded aluminum type. It will fail in a very short period of time. Give that shackle attached to the bed bracket a frequent inspection as it appears the bracket hole is not relieved. That is, the edges of the hole are not smoothed out. It will be cutting into your shackle.

A lot of hardware store variety of hardware these days is just cheap junk. I would not use anything that is not rated.

I too am amazed at how much discussion there is on the turnbuckle topic.
 
Having gotten into the habit of checking the turnbuckles regularly I find the forward drivers side loosens, the others tend to stay tight. The zip-tie idea is a good one, thanks guys.
Having been the person who actually did the turnbuckle installation when I had the camper put on the truck at the dealer; I got a look at the incredibly chintzy aluminum-body turnbuckles they gave me, and I quickly replaced them with stainless steel ones I got from a marine hardware supply company. I don't buy much hardware or fasteners anymore from the average hardware or building supply store, instead take the time to order higher quality stuff online.
 
See if you can find forged eye bolts. I am using 1/2" forged on mine, although I DID cut some of them open to be able to hook them on. Also, for carabiners, consider using LOCKING carabiners, like these.

I will also say that I love my Torklift Derringer handles. I had to take off the camper and put it back on to install my new Propex heater last month, and these make it a very quick process.
 
Hmm...does Happijac not make a product for the front tie-downs? As noted, aluminum stretches and cracks and fails. The "J" hook and/or the round eye are only as strong as the metal they are made for and they don't like repeated forces working against them, especially off-road.

I would suggest an upgrade or just bite the bullet and bolt that camper down to the truck bed with some serious gusset plates inside the camper and under the bed to spread the stress.

Happijacs for the front are spring-loaded to take up some of the stress/shock of jarring road action, potholes and rocky roads. The rears are stiffer but are not spring loaded.

By the way, if you MUST use a shackle, forget a plastic cable tie....get some decent gauge wire to run through the hole in the pin and secure it to the body of the shackle.
 
Like Vic locking carabiners and torque lift derringers attached to #8 eyebolts with backing plate(not sure if Vic uses these). It takes a little work to get the derringers dialed in but then everything is easy and never a problem like my old connections that required a locking nut and a lot of hassle to get on and off. They are absolutely easy to use. I have spent a fair amount of time on roads that should rattle your teeth and nary a problem with the camper connections. No bending, no loosening with vibration and once they are adjusted they stay put. A little money up front and sure has payed off in the end. I have checked them each trip but never change so a waist of time in about 40 trips.
 
+1 on rated turnbuckles. Get them with clevis ends and you can eliminate two pieces of hardware. Those aluminum turnbuckle bodies, if rated at all, are very low strength.

Proper way to keep turnbuckles from turning is with a jam nut; but they can be a pain in a tight space.
 
about those climbing 'biners, prob made of AL I'm thinking. They do make steel ones. Not that I'd be worried, I'm still on my 21 yo AL turnbuckles but added a locknut to each ... and do have a tailgate for back up :giggle:

I think the key is to check whatever you have periodically. Don't like what you find or are worried, make some changes like the OP did.
 
i think blaming the loose turnbuckle is not the main issue. If you improve the friction on the bottom of the camper with truck bed and shoulder, your turnbuckle will stay tight. Previously, during a trip to Saline Valley 4/15 this year, my rear turnbuckles fell off and i have to stop the car and re-install the rear turnbuckles every two hours. i can see in my side mirror that the camper was swinging upwards by the gusty wind.

Since then, i have lowered the truck rubber bedding and let the the camper's side rests on my Tacoma truck shoulder, while still keeping the camper bottom fits on the rubber mat without void space. I drove 400 miles to Chanslor camp rally and back, only needed to tighten the front turnbuckle just a little for once.
 
moveinon said:
Like Vic locking carabiners and torque lift derringers attached to #8 eyebolts with backing plate(not sure if Vic uses these). It takes a little work to get the derringers dialed in but then everything is easy and never a problem like my old connections that required a locking nut and a lot of hassle to get on and off. They are absolutely easy to use. I have spent a fair amount of time on roads that should rattle your teeth and nary a problem with the camper connections. No bending, no loosening with vibration and once they are adjusted they stay put. A little money up front and sure has payed off in the end. I have checked them each trip but never change so a waist of time in about 40 trips.
I have hefty backing plates, for sure, and #8 eybolts. Actually picked the truck/camper off the ground once when taking the camper off for the first time, forgot to release the Derringers...oops! Plenty strong.
 
Ive had my Hawk mounted on my Titan for about 8 months now. Numerous trips to Death Valley (Racetrack Road / Saline Valley), Mojave Preserve and the Arizona Strip. I can say that I havent had a single "loose" turnbuckle. I have no liner, camper sits on bare metal.

Im no mechanical engineer but I would assume loose turnbuckles are caused by flexing of the truck bed. The Titan has a one peice rolled bed at the corners and the shape appears to be very stiff. This design I would assume would not allow the metal to flex at the mounting points in the bed. I would think bed flex would not only allow for the turnbuckle to "twist" but would also put a shock load on the turnbuckle itself. Would be interesting to find out which trucks people have that experience this issue?
 
adventurebound
That's a good observation. I've looked at my truck bed and the front anchors are right on top of a perpendicular bed mounting, rears are on the wheel well near the bottom.
Check them frequently if the camper has been off the truck when re- mounted. I have found one or two loose, but after slightly retightening
no problems follow.
Steel bed 2016 F250 8 foot ATC Cougar. OEM turnbuckles both ends "J"
One thing I don't recall anyone mentioning is mounting direction of the turnbuckles. Marty was very specific on that and the tightening.

Russ
 
I'm using the FWC provided turnbuckles with a lock nut to prevent loosening and haven't had any issues. I don't recall a discussion regarding direction of the turnbuckle when I picked up the camper, and it got me thinking that I've installed them randomly. Is there a preferred direction?
 
I recently was looking at getting some new turnbuckles and was surprised by the how low the Aluminum ones are rated


1st Photo Shows the Aluminum

2nd is Steel
 

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CougarCouple said:
adventurebound
That's a good observation. I've looked at my truck bed and the front anchors are right on top of a perpendicular bed mounting, rears are on the wheel well near the bottom.
Check them frequently if the camper has been off the truck when re- mounted. I have found one or two loose, but after slightly retightening
no problems follow.
Steel bed 2016 F250 8 foot ATC Cougar. OEM turnbuckles both ends "J"
One thing I don't recall anyone mentioning is mounting direction of the turnbuckles. Marty was very specific on that and the tightening.

Russ
Hmm...My F-350 is a 2018 aluminum body. Should I be concerned with strengthening the turnbuckle bed mounts, in addition to beefing up the turnbuckle components? Since my Grandby is going to stay on 24/7, maybe I should go for bolting the camper to the bed. If I do, any recommendations on the type/size of hardware for that?
 
MAC33 said:
I recently was looking at getting some new turnbuckles and was surprised by the how low the Aluminum ones are rated
Your not kidding, 50lbs for the 3/8s. .. what ... !?!

Can't find the type I have online,with a square body but see some other AL ones rated for 144lbs. Even so that's seems crazy low for a camper.

I wonder about the folks who've bent a hook, opened an eye or pulled thru the camper plywood (before backing plates were added).
I'd think that would be more force ??

But then again, some have trouble, some don't.

PS, Welcome Mac :)
---

CougarCouple said:
...is mounting direction of the turnbuckles. Marty was very specific on that and the tightening.
CC, we're curious. Wanna share ?
 

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