Two Bob's OH to AK 2016 - Ram + Hawk + Husky + Wing

You leave Stewart and pass around the bay to reach Hyder.

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Looking back toward Stewart.
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There is no Customs entering Hyder, only when you exit.
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We covered 900 miles the last two days so we can have some time to hang around the famous bear watching platforms in Hyder. We know the salmon are still running so our hopes are high.

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Alas, lots of fish but no bears. The ranger informs us that the bears are burned out on fish at this point and they're down to about 1-2 bear sightings a day. We debating camping down the street to see what happened as it got dark (and in the morning). However it's calling for rain in the morning, so we shoved off about 5pm and decided to make the 50 mile run to Meziadin campground.

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The Meziadin decision was a good one. We arrived and grilled some burgers with a fantastic view and a beautiful sunset.

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Again enjoying the trip.It's nice to see places we have been in the past.
Our first trip to Stewart/Hyder was in 1990 when the Alaskan ferry still made a call there.
Great stop,saw the bears feeding on the salmon where there is now the viewing platform.
Our last trip to Hyder area was 09 and it was a very low salmon year ,only saw a couple fish at the viewing area.
What glacier is in the last part of the report?
26 years ago the Bear Glacier ended at the small melt lake next to the road.
Thanks for the trip.
Frank
 
Your 26 yr perspective on the Bear Glacier is interesting Frank. When I look at that picture I can "see" it.

Not sure what the last glacier was, it was just after you left Stewart. I thought the way it was covered in debris was interesting.

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Tuesday Sept 13 and Wednesday Sept 14. Meziadin to Prince George, BC to Jasper, AB. 405 + 240 miles.

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Tuesday was the least remarkable day of the trip. The remaining 100 miles of the Cassiar from Meziadin to its terminus at Rt 16 is not bad, but Rt 16 has a totally different feel. You're passing thru a lot of towns and it very much resembles driving thru Kentucky or Tennessee for the 300 miles to Prince George. Wednesday was better as the section of Rt 16 from Prince George to Tete Juane Catche is nearly uninhabited. Do not forget to fuel up in Prince George! I skipped fuel thinking there would be gas every 30 miles like there had been yesterday and had to add my 1gal Rotopax to the Wing to make it to McBride. It was the only time on the trip we had to use our spare gas/diesel.

Meziadin is a little fogged in this morning, glad I took pics last night!

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The Gitanyow Indian Reservation is at the intersection of the Cassiar/Rt 16. There was a cool display of totem poles (that I should have taken pics of) and this forlorn looking church.

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We pulled over in Smithers and made sandwiches for lunch.
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Prince George is a large city that feels like any downtown urban area in the Lower 48. We hit Walmart for supplies, and had dinner at a McDonalds where because of the vagrants hanging around you had to be buzzed into the restroom by the order counter. We escaped 10 miles south on Rt 97 to get away from town and camped at MaMa Yeh campground. It's a new facility and the oriental gentleman that owns it has put a nice amount of infrastructure (water/sewer/elec) in already and is planning more improvements. Hopefully this includes a shower house as we're doing another stretch of 3 days between showers.

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Wednesday we got up and beat feet toward Jasper Natl Park. The forecast for Thursday looks fantastic on the Icefields Parkway so we're hoping to finish this trip on a high note.

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The scenery gets spectacular as you near Jasper.

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Tonight we'll stay at Whistlers Campground just a few miles south of Jasper. Whistlers and Wapiti campgrounds are both really nice facilities and even this late in the season are nearly booked. There were no full-service hookups available so we took a primitive site. After 3 days showerless, we were happy just to get cleaned up.

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Now your trip for me is through areas we haven't been (Jasper).
Again 26 years ago R16 seems to have changed a lot. At Smithers we spent the night and went to the fossil bed area outside town.It was great. At that time you could sort through the talus slope and collect fossils. Now I see that it's a "boardwalk" area and only
looking allowed. I seem to remember that glacier just outside Stewart. There are several up in the hills. Our drive to Prince George was a lot less populated than you ran into. Oh well times change.
Thanks for posting.
Frank
 
Thursday Sept 15. Whistlers Campground to Etherington Campground. 290 miles

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Well the end of the trip is near. :( However, we're finishing on a high note with a perfect day of weather on the Icefields Parkway! :) After fueling up in Jasper we head south for Lake Louise.

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The road was built right thru this awesome rock flow.
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The recently constructed Glacier Skywalk, a glass floored viewing platform, is part of the Columbia Icefields tourist business. It's a very congested area so I stopped down the road and hiked back up for some pics.

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Walking back to the bike...
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Nearing the Columbia Icefields Visitor Center.
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The outflow of the Columbia Glacier.
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We didn't stop to take the giant bus ride up on the glacier this time but we did on our 2013 trip. Here a couple pics to give you an idea.
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There are glaciers everywhere in this area.
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Leaving Jasper NP and entering Banff NP.
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Looking south from Sunwapta Pass.
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Just below the pass.
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This one is my desktop right now.
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Peyto Lake overlook, I stood here 26 days ago.
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Icefields Pky upper right.
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Last shot on the Icefields Parkway.
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Finally, after two prior attempts, we're going to drive Hwy 40 thru Kananaskis Country this evening. On our 2013 trip Hwy40 was closed due to flooding, and on the way north this trip we made the mistake of thinking it would be faster to go thru Calgary (a word of advise, DO NOT go thru Calgary unless you have a reason. There are no interstate routes thru the city, only surface streets, and it was SLOW). The Kananaskis Trail (Hwy 40) on the other hand is a fantastic road. Being that it's closed for the winter, there's a good chance of seeing wildlife. Its beautifully paved with very little traffic and we're going to camp just off the road at Etherington Campground tonight. (Note: Hwy 40 is a continuous road all the way to Longview)

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We were loosing light/trying to get to camp and this was the only pic I took. I think it's sufficient. :)
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Etherington is a primitive campground about 5 miles up a gravel logging road and was nearly deserted. It closed for the season 3 days after we were there. This is a very remote area and the bear threat felt more present here than maybe anywhere we stayed on the trip.

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So that's what the Canadian Rockies look like. Beautiful. On our trip in July, we saw no mountain tops or ridgelines due the rain and low clouds. Clouds generally came down to just above trees.

We visited Kootenay NP, Lake Louise, Jasper etc, still a worthwhile visit but plan to go again next year. Your shots with some fall color indicate that may be better time and, likely, less crowded on weekends. Weekdays were not bad if away from tourist traps.

Thanks for the reports.
Paul
 
Everything was grey and socked in with clouds on our northbound trip on the Icefields, we got very lucky on the return trip. I was surprised how much traffic there was even in mid-Sept in Jasper/Banff. I suspect some of that is driven by the leaf peepers. Both Whistlers and Wapiti campgrounds as well as the ones near Banff/Lake Louise were nearly full.

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The wrap-up.

Friday Sept 16 - Sunday Sept 18. Etherington to Home. 2306 miles.

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You may recall me mentioning at Dawson City that we'd need to average 470 miles a day the last 9 days to get home. You may also have noticed that there have been quite a few days since that we haven't done 470 miles. Now it's time to pay the piper... I intended to keep riding the bike down to Waterton Lakes and the east side of Glacier NP before loading up and jumping over to I-15. However, I can see the math isn't working and it's time to load the bikes and turn and burn. Sadly, the Wing goes on the trailer and we settle into distance mode. In hindsight, I wish we would have gone south from Longview toward Waterton Lakes before dodging over to I-15. That route runs much closer to the Rockies and is a lot prettier drive with fewer big towns (we did it in '13).

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After driving 525 miles Friday we decided to get a proper rest/shower before the remaining 30 hour push. We found a neat little campground in Three Forks, MT and slept well.

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With 1800 miles to go we got going early Saturday morning and arrived home safely Sunday evening. Amazingly, we didn't see a drop of rain since we left Valdez 13 days ago. I somehow remembered to snap the truck odo at the beginning and end. With 5% speedo error (bigger tires), 11,853 miles.
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That's one dirty truck!
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I'll be back with a trip summary/thoughts post.

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Some random thoughts/advise about the trip...

- First, I have to thank all of the ADVRider members who have taken time to share their AK trip over the last several years. I can say with near certainty that our trip never would have happened without the info and increased "comfort level" your ride reports gave me. I bought The Milepost 14 years ago, so that tells you how long it's been on my mind. Hopefully our report reduces the "unknown" and causes a few of you to pull the trigger on this amazing trip.

- I don't want to deceive with pictures of blue skies and beautiful roads - this is a long, long ride. You often hear "it's about the trip, not the destination", and while Alaska is certainly about the destination, you had better derive enjoyment from just being on your bike and grinding out miles. The romance of "riding to Alaska" may wear off when those long mile days start to add up. Add in being cold and wet with hundreds of miles still ahead of you, a flat tire, or wondering if you'll make it on fuel, because that will likely be reality at some point. I have thought to myself a few times - what's wrong with me that I enjoy this? :)

- Regarding the Dalton Highway: The best piece of advise I read somewhere was to slow down (way down) and pull right for approaching semis. If you do this, 90% of them slow down and you don't get a gravel shower. If you keep the hammer down, they keep the hammer down. The only damage we sustained was a small rock chip on the truck windshield. I rode in the dry and in the rain but never found the Dalton slippery or treacherous (granted I was on knobbies). Except for the last 30 miles of construction entering Deadhorse, I could have ridden it on the Wing. Not suggesting it would have been fun, but it could have been done. If you make the trip to Fairbanks, I'd at least ride up to the Arctic Circle sign. You could do that in one day.

- Clothing: Merino wool base layers - they rock! They're naturally anti-microbial, don't get stinky, insulate when wet, and never really feel damp against your skin even if you're sweating. I had two short sleeve/two long sleeve Ts and a lightweight zip neck. Two pairs of lightweight travel pants, lightweight merino long johns (wore them 2 days), 4pr of wool blend socks, 4pr underwear. The reality is, we only got a shower every 2-3 days and wore our outer clothes for a week sometimes. We did laundry twice on the trip.

- Riding gear: A heated jacket serves as a layer, a jacket, and when it gets cold you turn it on. To me they're a piece of safety gear and you don't need to wear 5 layers and look like the Michelin Man. The most I had on in 40deg temps was 2 thin wool layers, heated jacket, outer jacket. If it looked like all day rain or 30s I'd add my long john bottoms and rain jacket. I'm obviously a fan of Aerostich stuff, the 1 piece Roadcrafter was perfect for this trip. A cheap rain jacket over it will keep you dry in the worst rain/dirty spray the Dalton can offer. Aerostich 3 finger rain gloves are the best of anything I've tried at keeping my hands dry in a day of pouring rain.

- Tools, etc: Have what you need to fix a flat and know how to use it. If you're going to Prudhoe or Inuvik, carry an air pump and maybe a backup way (CO2?) to inflate (two guns is one, one is none...). Help will not be close at hand on those two roads, everywhere else feels like civilization by comparison. Even so, your ability to perform a repair may prevent lost days for the trip. Know the weaknesses of your machine and be prepared. I carry a #4 injector line, spare alternator, voltage reg, fuel filter, and serpentine belt for the truck. The box of Husky parts has an ECU, fuel pump, coil, crank sensor, oil/air filt, TPS, masterlink, sparkplug, brake pads, wheel bearings, etc. I've never needed any of them, but it is a euro bike. ;) No spares for the Wing...although I did find a loose muffler bolt after the trip to McCarthy. :) The one misstep I made in preparation was not investing in larger mud flaps for the truck, my paint paid the price in a few areas.

- Fuel: If you have 200 mile range you be fine everywhere except the Dalton, there you'll want 275 to be safe. We had 6gals of diesel and 1gal of gas in the trailer cargo box, I used the gas once and that could have been avoided.

- The mental game: Avoid the avoidable problems. 1. Look after yourself. Eat right, drink plenty, carry snacks - your judgment and reaction time are important. 2. Look after the machine. Don't beat it to death with an unnecessarily fast pace. I often catch and remind myself to "slow down to speed up". 4000 miles from home is not where you want to get yourself a broken collarbone because you overcooked a corner. We had two very close calls on the trip. On the first day from home I nearly hit a mule deer going 70mph on I-80 as it started to get dark. Critters had just crossed my mind and I'd taken the cruise off of 73 but it still took all the brakes I had not to hit it (Dad nearly ended up in the floorboard as he was asleep). At a photo stop along the Turnigan Arm, Dad didn't see a RV coming at 50mph and pulled out. The RV evaded but my truck mirror put a 10ft black stripe down the side of the RV. Amazingly it rubbed off and the mirror was fine. Whew...

- I don't have 4 weeks to do this trip, what do I prioritize?: If you're traveling from the mid-west it's going to take a week to and a week from the AK state line. The good news there is once you hit the Icefields or Cassiar you're on great roads. In Alaska I'd prioritize the road to Seward, to Valdez, the Denali Hwy, and the Arctic Circle sign. If you have a day to spare at the end, use the Top of the World to exit the state. That should make the trip doable in ~3 weeks. Alternatively, you could do a fly and ride into Anchorage, spend 12 days riding the state, and do it in two weeks.

- I want to do Alaska with my spouse and not drive there: IMO, forget doing a cruise, you're locked into their schedule regardless of weather. Fly into Anchorage and rent a modest size RV or a car/SUV. Remember, the weather calls the shots so watch the forecast as you arrive and if Denali is clear go there first. If not, go south to Seward first. When you return to Anchorage from Seward look at the weather and decide on Denali or Valdez. You see the pattern here. The three things I really recommend are the drive to Seward, to Valdez, and to Denali. If time permits add Fairbanks/Arctic Circle sign and McCarthy. If you want to see the calving glaciers and killer whales take a day cruise from Seward or Valdez. Again, if you're calling the shots on your itinerary you can choose to do this on a nice day. If you do an RV you can really slow down and have lunch/stay wherever you want. Rental rates drop in Sept, I'm told that a late model 27' Minnie Winnie can be had for about the cost of a hotel room. A car/SUV is not a bad option though and there are plenty of cool places to stay. A SUV would make doing the Denali Hwy, McCarthy, and the Arctic Circle sign easier.

- Trip timing/the weather: I wouldn't change how we did it. Early September has less rain, less mosquitoes, and less tourists.

- Read Jack's (Alcan Rider on ADVRider) primers on Alaska travel and try to connect with him on the trip. I contacted him a year before we took the trip to bounce some questions off him. He is very generous with his time to help.

That's all I got for now, RIDE ON!

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DYNOBOB, Reading your TR's has been very enjoyable. I felt like I was a long for the ride. It definitely has given me ideas for a trip when I retire. Thanks for sharing and your honest summary. Happy future travels. jd

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Great report. Lots of good suggestions in the summary. Thanks for putting so much energy into your report- I really enjoyed following along.
 
Bob after our 6 week trip (overlapping yours) it was a pleasure and loads of fun to read along on your trip.
Your last post has a lot of great info and not just for bike riders.

Alaska is a great trip experience and with at the least some planning there are a lot of great places to visit.
I was shocked at some of the visitors we talked with on the ferry who were making their first trip.
Some had some plans and at least had or looked at a Mile Post.
Others were just , "oh lets just get on the ferry and play it by ear on an Alaskan trip".
Several never heard of the Mile Post.
One woman in particular on a "trike" was doing the Dalton and she seemed to have no plan and was worried about if she should carry extra fuel. Well to each their own.

Plan a little bit ahead and enjoy the trip and be ready to change.
Frank
 
A remarkable trip and father son affair, well documented with usable information for others to reference. Very well done and thank you so much for the time and effort put into sharing. Our hats off to you and your Dad. :)
 
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