Vic's new 2012 Puma build

Nice job Vic, I like how neat and finished the doors and drawer fronts turned out. Really came together nice. If I remember right, I think you like the open feel of a shell, but curious if you're doing a dinette at all? I vote keeping colors lighter, more uplifting feeling to me. Keep up the good work!

Poky
 
Thanks for the tips and kind and uplifting comments. Both are very useful, especially when the occasional "Oh, cr@p" dumb @ss move is made, like today... I cut the 1/8" maple for the big window side of the camper, but got it inside out, so .... one more chunk of nice wood is toast. Only happens once in a while, but it does.

Yes, we are planning a dinette. Have done lots of reading here, and thought of doing what Bill Harr did, but that only leaves 24" in the aisle which feels very cramped to me. Also thought about using the tops of old office chairs and boat seat swivels on a box/storage base, but the swivel motion is impeded by the shape of the seats and the space available. (seats are not round, so even just a 45* turn will make the space required bigger).

Current thinking is we will use flip-up hinges so that the seats can be stored and flipped up when needed. We already have a Lagun table leg, so that will go in there too.

Not a cabinet maker. Actually, these are the first drawers I have ever built. We decided drawers would be nicer than all the simple cabinets we put into our Hawk build. Now we have lots of each.

The front cabinets, where the window used to be, are 13" deep. With the original 47" cab-over bed, that gives us 60" = queen size, without ever having to slide the bed in or out. And still as much floor space as a Hawk. All the benefits of the flat-deck Hawk without the extra height and air gap between the cab roof and camper.

The flush mount unit is the sink. The single burner induction cooktop is stored in the left most top drawer. It will pull out and be placed on the counter top, or on the picnic table.

30 gal water tank is at the front, at the bottom of all those cabinets.

The propane tanks also sit at the front (drivers side) between the front of the camper and the 130L Truckfridge. 3000w AIMS Power pure sine wave inverter sits under the fridge.

Dual 100AH Battleborn batteries are on top of the water tank, in that longer flip down opening at the front of the camper.

The Heater is the larger Propex. The cost difference was minimal, and we certainly didn't feel like the smaller Propex (in the smaller Hawk) was too powerful. This one also has the upgraded digital thermostat.

The floor is insulated with 1/2" hard insulation, and just the subfloor on their now during construction. Really nice cushioned luxury vinyl sheet waiting to be installed.

Walls with 1" hard insulation, and all the walls were taped to ensure no air movement through the gaps/walls.

Got the window back in tonight. Feels good to see it coming together instead of further and further apart! A few more bits of woodworking to do, and then all the wiring/plumbing starts!

Vic
 
As I get older I find myself cursing dark (meaning black) suitcases and containers. I lose sight of smaller items inside of them. So if it were me I’d keep the cabinets light in color inside the camper. I like the natural maple you’ve used. I agree with your use of drawers, I even like old school sliding panels used by ATC. I’ve had too many doors fly open in our MH. Keep up the good work!
 
PaulT said:
Vic,
Are you a cabinet maker in this or a previous life? Your build looks really nice.

That green box looks like a Propex 2800 heater. Did you find that you need more heat than the 2000?
Is that location its installation location or just storage while you build out your unit?

How do you plan to plumb it into propane?

Where does the exhaust exit?

Paul
Click to expand...
Paul, that is the final location for the heater. Propane fitting faces the front of the camper. Propane box is 44" away at the front of the camper. Plumbing will be super easy.

Combustion exhaust and intake air fitting go through the subfloor towards the truck bed. One will be routed forwards, the other to the back.
 
buckland said:
Vic take a piece of scrap cabinet wood and try different stains out. I like a hickory mix with maple. But try a bunch. To reduce blotching. Pretreat the ply with Sealcoat wax-less shellac mixed 50% with alcohol.... it will raise the grain so a 220 sanding makes big difference. The stain will go on evenly.
Click to expand...
OK, so when I went online to research where to buy this shellac, I found the article below. As an expert yourself, I bet you have a thought or two to add?
https://www.woodshopnews.com/columns-blogs/shellac-as-a-sealer-its-all-just-hype
 
I guess all I can say is, I know 300 refinishers who would disagree :) . Sealcoat is found in most hardware stores. All it does for plywood is slow the absorption rate for stain (one could also use 'sizing' which is nothing more than watered down Elmers glue. If you have ever stained a soft wood or a highly featured one... the stain does not go in evenly.... it can look blotchy and muddy. ...'sealing' the pores allows a more consistent absorption.
My advice would be to get two test boards.... treat one with sealcoat cut 50%... then make test strips of your possible;le color stains (or dyes).
You will convince yourself....who is... the most important guy in this project!
Test strips allow a mistake not to happen.
 
buckland said:
I guess all I can say is, I know 300 refinishers who would disagree :) . Sealcoat is found in most hardware stores. All it does for plywood is slow the absorption rate for stain (one could also use 'sizing' which is nothing more than watered down Elmers glue. If you have ever stained a soft wood or a highly featured one... the stain does not go in evenly.... it can look blotchy and muddy. ...'sealing' the pores allows a more consistent absorption.
My advice would be to get two test boards.... treat one with sealcoat cut 50%... then make test strips of your possible;le color stains (or dyes).
You will convince yourself....who is... the most important guy in this project!
Test strips allow a mistake not to happen.
Click to expand...
excellent advice. Thanks!

I haven't seen a "Hickory" stain color swatch anywhere yet... if you could describe that to me or post a link, that would be super!
 
Where does the exhaust exit?

Paul


Hey Paul, thanks for asking that question. Another brain fart moment.... I mounted it 11" too far back. Luckily, I can still easily move it now. As it sits, the exhaust would interfere with the wheel well of the truck. Doh!!
 
Hey Vic ... for what it is worth ... they sell pre-stain products (mostly shellac!) like this: ( I don't use as I make my own)
Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner | Minwax®
Hickory can be found a lot of places ...most 'popular' is Minwax Gel Stain | Wood & Metal Stain | Minwax®

Note Gel Stains are good and easy if you don't follow directions! After pre-coat seal ...wipe it on and work it in until nearly dry... then just topcoat it with a dusting of spray shellac (aerosol) ...it magically will dry the gel-stain instantly ...no waiting! The next day a coat of Helmsman (Min-wax) Polyurethane ( a Spar Varnish used on boats) ) and it will be done and ready for spilt wine or beer!

Hickory is a warm color... like a gunstock. I like lighter like Golden Oak. Danish Oil is actually not an oil per say ...it is actually a varnish. It is a good product. I would though top coat with a Spar varnish (poly) to have a durable surface.

PS You must be psyched... making what you want having the experience of use. I love mods!
 
buckland said:
Hey Vic ... for what it is worth ... they sell pre-stain products (mostly shellac!) like this: ( I don't use as I make my own)
Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner | Minwax®
Hickory can be found a lot of places ...most 'popular' is Minwax Gel Stain | Wood & Metal Stain | Minwax®

Note Gel Stains are good and easy if you don't follow directions! After pre-coat seal ...wipe it on and work it in until nearly dry... then just topcoat it with a dusting of spray shellac (aerosol) ...it magically will dry the gel-stain instantly ...no waiting! The next day a coat of Helmsman (Min-wax) Polyurethane ( a Spar Varnish used on boats) ) and it will be done and ready for spilt wine or beer!

Hickory is a warm color... like a gunstock. I like lighter like Golden Oak. Danish Oil is actually not an oil per say ...it is actually a varnish. It is a good product. I would though top coat with a Spar varnish (poly) to have a durable surface.

PS You must be psyched... making what you want having the experience of use. I love mods!
Click to expand...
OK, so the steps to apply this stuff are:

1) Pre-stain with a brush or rag and then sand with 220 ... while still wet or once dry?
2) Apply stain... gel or otherwise... working it in... with a sander? 000 steel wool?
3) Apply a top coat - I don't want to spray... it would make a mess in the camper unless I tape everything up. So, with steel wool?

Do all 3 products have to be oil based?

I'm inclined to go with HomeDepot, although Lowes does carry Minwax stuff here in Calgary that HomeDepot does not. So, thinking of:
- Varathane pre-stain
- Watco Danish Oil in either Natural or Golden Oak
- Watco Wipe-On satin poly.

In my previous build, I used Natural Danish oil on the Baltic Birch and rubbed it in with steel wool after sanding with 220. I applied two coats. That's it. It was not waterproof, but easy to re-apply when desired. I liked the satin finish vs a gloss.

I'm actually really looking forward to being DONE with the woodworking stuff (for now) so I can get to the electrical and plumbing bits which I enjoy more... but yeah mods.. or building it MY WAY is great fun!
 
Still do a test strip.
If you are going to use Danish Oil don't use a Gel stain. (two separate and very different application steps)
So from the above I'd suggest:
1) very light hand sanding 220 or 320 to smooth any burrs.
2) wipe surface (or Vac) to remove dust
3) either Seal coat (dries in a couple minutes) or Pre-stain product.
4) 320 light hand sand (use a block or scrap 2x4) to knock off raised fiber
5) wipe off dust
6) Best way to apply Danish oil is (wear rubber gloves) pour some in a container (tuna fish can is perfect size) and with a folded piece of cotton (an old T shirt).... get a well soaked wad and wipe with grain ... no need to be neat... keep applying until the wood seems saturated .... wait a couple minutes ... then with a clean dry cloth....WIPE OFF ALL excess oil. Allow to dry over night
7) repeat step 6 but it will need far less for second coat. (repeat id you want a third coat.
8) IF you want more coats of protection Wipe-On Poly is a good choice. If so... apply wipe 0000 steal wool same as above ....be sure to dry wipe..... these are thin but very smooth when done and it is easy.... no runs or drips.

I would only put Spar Varnish on horizontal surfaces.... no need for further protection on cab sides.

Good Luck!!!!
 
When I did my cabinets with birch plywood from Home Depot I used Minwax stain, sanded with 400 grit, and then applied 3 coats of poly, sanding and tack cloth in between each coat. I found it extremely important to pay attention to the tiny little wood hairs that stand up when you brush your hand over the wood surface. You will find that when you brush in one direction the hairs stand up, and in the other direction they lay down. I sanded, cleaned, and applied poly only in the direction that made the hairs lay down. Doing this I got the best results I ever got when working with wood. Funny that in all the woodworking web sites I viewed this was never mentioned.
 
Raised fiber occurs anytime one applied a chemical or water to wood, depending on the species for amount. Plywood is cut on a roller and those veneers basically are sheared so very high level of cut fiber ends. Another good use of a seal coat.
 
OK, many coats later, it is now doing a longer cure before I decide if I want to keep it as is, or add the Wipe-on-Poly. Looks very nice. We decided to just go with Natural Watco Danish Oil.

In the meantime, I built my side dinette using a Lagun table leg and 16" flip up hinges and 2 Bonvivo II chairs.

Here is a view with the seats flipped up and the leg deployed. Note that the seats themselves are not finished, but just raw maple plywood. I didn't want the chance of any oil rubbing off on the seats, and may also want to add industrial strength velcro to hold the seats down too. A table top is yet to come.
full


Another view
full


Seats flipped down and the leg moved aside
full


Another view of it tucked away
full



With a BonVivo II chair on one of the seats
full


A satisfied customer!
full



The seats can be moved, and positioned a different angles. We will fold them flat for travel. And since we can move them... why not take a nap?
full
 
I have now started on the power part of the build. Since I was making up cables, I thought I would write up a short process in case anyone else wants to do this.

This is the end of AWG 1/0 fine stranded welding cable. I found 10' of both red and black wire on Amazon for a reasonable price.
full


Stip off 1/2" of the insulation. I just used a very sharp knife.
full


Slip on a piece of snugly fitting color coded heat shrink. This was super snug and a pain to get on.
full


Slide on the right end. I used high quality copper ends (not purple copper) the right gauge size (once again very snug) and with the right sized hole for the stud they are mounting to. Notice that because they are so snug, some stray wires may not make it inside. Snip those off.
full


This is the crimping tool I used. It needs a 5 pound sledgehammer, a very solid surface to place it on, and a well aimed smash to crimp the wire.
full


All in place an ready to smash. Don't channel your inner HULK here though... aim is more important than force. It IS soft copper, not steel, and will bend quite easily.
full


Slide the heat shrink over the crimped wired and end
full


Apply heat. I used a plumber's propane torch... carefully. Tada!
full
 
Your Cabinets came out looking great! I have that same table mount and like it a lot. I did shorten the horizontal bar...having to cut it and bore a hole for the pin (swivel). wasn't hard but it is scary cutting something like that. It worked out better for me as the table top was then more solidly centered on the top plate.
You are doing a terrific job...layout looks real comfortable.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads - WTW

R
Puma complete build-out retrospect--everything I did and why
Vic Harder
Vic Harder
4wheelColeman
The New Guy
m5040
M
pods8
Custom build - 1982 grandby ghost
2 3
pods8
pods8
F
2015 Tacoma SR5 w/ Eagle Suspension Upgrades
firsttracksbmax
F
L
another camper exchange!
Vic Harder
Vic Harder

New posts - WTW

Back
Top Bottom