Thought I would start this thread now, since I am starting my 4000 mile round trip trek down to New Mexico tomorrow morning to pick up the Puma.
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Vic's new 2012 Puma build
- Thread starter Vic Harder
- Start date
jimjxsn
Senior Member
Looking forward to updates. Have a great trip!
carld
Senior Member
Sounds like a good trip. The Puma looks great. I'm on number 3 too, 2011 Palomino Bronco (sold), 2015 ATC Ocelot (wrecked), and 2019 ATC Ocelot (new). I'm going to NM Friday 5-24 for a couple of weeks, the weather is going to be good, going to be exploring around the badlands of NW New Mexico to NE Arizona.
OP
OP
it’s been bucketing rain in idaho and utah today, with occasional snow too
OP
OP
First night with the PUMA, in Bandelier, NM. Windy, but lovely campground with good neighbors!
We even managed to sneak in a day of hiking & site seeing in Bandelier.
I wasn't sure from the description if this circular structure was the remains of a large building, or of an advanced gardening technique
View down the main valley
Petroglyph in one of the many alcoves. Looks like a horse with a bridle to me...
When we got home, we had to shuffle campers around, since the PUMA will be parked until this winter, when I will have time to work on it. This summer, we are still using the Hawk.
We've discovered a few issues with this otherwise pristine camper:
1) The ceiling liner is damaged. Looks like a bicycle was transported in the camper, and tore linear rips into the liner. ;-(
2) In an absolute downpour at 80 mph plus a headwind, it leaked a bit at the top, passenger side
3) Roof is bent from an incident involving the clips coming undone, but we knew about that when we bought it.
Still a good deal, even with 4000 miles of driving to get it.
We even managed to sneak in a day of hiking & site seeing in Bandelier.
I wasn't sure from the description if this circular structure was the remains of a large building, or of an advanced gardening technique
View down the main valley
Petroglyph in one of the many alcoves. Looks like a horse with a bridle to me...
When we got home, we had to shuffle campers around, since the PUMA will be parked until this winter, when I will have time to work on it. This summer, we are still using the Hawk.
We've discovered a few issues with this otherwise pristine camper:
1) The ceiling liner is damaged. Looks like a bicycle was transported in the camper, and tore linear rips into the liner. ;-(
2) In an absolute downpour at 80 mph plus a headwind, it leaked a bit at the top, passenger side
3) Roof is bent from an incident involving the clips coming undone, but we knew about that when we bought it.
Still a good deal, even with 4000 miles of driving to get it.
OP
OP
Working on the build, but haven't posted... sorry! Question for y'all ... I am redoing the insulation, and thinking of:
1) Making the loose fiberglass fill 1/2 as thick (it pulls apart easily) to fill in the uneven siding surfaces
2) Fitting the remaining space with 1/2" thick solid insulation
3) Taping the seams to block air flow
4) Adding a layer of Reflectix and taping that instead of doing #3
It is actually step 4 that I have the most questions about. I understand it only adds about 1.3R value. Will it make the thin 1/8" wall covering bow/warp too much? I bet I'd be able to see it bend/flex wherever a screw attaches it to the framing.
Thanks for your wisdom!
Vic
1) Making the loose fiberglass fill 1/2 as thick (it pulls apart easily) to fill in the uneven siding surfaces
2) Fitting the remaining space with 1/2" thick solid insulation
3) Taping the seams to block air flow
4) Adding a layer of Reflectix and taping that instead of doing #3
It is actually step 4 that I have the most questions about. I understand it only adds about 1.3R value. Will it make the thin 1/8" wall covering bow/warp too much? I bet I'd be able to see it bend/flex wherever a screw attaches it to the framing.
Thanks for your wisdom!
Vic
Hey Vic, on #4 I agree with your concern and think I would prefer a more solid attachment of the panel than might occur with the reflex sandwiched in there. Also I'd first want to be sure of the suitability for the application. see the FAQ tab, Why are Air Spaces required (in every application)? on the mfr's website.
Reflex could act as a vapor barrier without all the taping, although I think I might use a poly roll instead. Btw for tape, I'm a big fan of Tuck tape.
You want to keep some fibre insulation to press out the siding ? Too bad 'cause I think if I was going to the trouble I'd get rid of it all and go 1" rigid IF it could be fitted tightly.
From previous post, did you fix the roof leak ?
Reflex could act as a vapor barrier without all the taping, although I think I might use a poly roll instead. Btw for tape, I'm a big fan of Tuck tape.
You want to keep some fibre insulation to press out the siding ? Too bad 'cause I think if I was going to the trouble I'd get rid of it all and go 1" rigid IF it could be fitted tightly.
From previous post, did you fix the roof leak ?
PokyBro
Senior Member
Hey Vic,
i’m with Klahanie on going with one inch rigid insulation if you have all the inside paneling off. When I did my build, I cut each piece of rigid foam with a table saw, and ended up with a very tight fit all around. I also picked up a role of peel off backing aluminum tape at Home Depot (used for duct work), and further sealed all of the joints.
I can’t tell you if it’s the best way, but my reasoning was that getting rid of the fiberglass batting, and going with rigid was less likely to hold moisture, is a tighter fit, and was just about as light weight. It’s also not a big expense. My wall seem pretty good at retaining heat in cold weather, and I’ve had no issues with moisture. I don’t think adding a layer of reflectix would have added much benefit.
Attached is a photo of how mine looked with the rigid foam.
Poky
i’m with Klahanie on going with one inch rigid insulation if you have all the inside paneling off. When I did my build, I cut each piece of rigid foam with a table saw, and ended up with a very tight fit all around. I also picked up a role of peel off backing aluminum tape at Home Depot (used for duct work), and further sealed all of the joints.
I can’t tell you if it’s the best way, but my reasoning was that getting rid of the fiberglass batting, and going with rigid was less likely to hold moisture, is a tighter fit, and was just about as light weight. It’s also not a big expense. My wall seem pretty good at retaining heat in cold weather, and I’ve had no issues with moisture. I don’t think adding a layer of reflectix would have added much benefit.
Attached is a photo of how mine looked with the rigid foam.
Poky
Thanks Vic for the posts.
Enjoy your new camper.
Frank
Enjoy your new camper.
Frank
takesiteasy
Senior Member
I agree with the comments above. Thermal bridging through the aluminum framing is a problem but most noticeable to us on the ceiling. Maybe some foam tape applied to the framing would help with that but probably marginal. Using full thickness foam sealed to the framing seems the best compromise to me. I have considered removing the paneling and adding a layer of foam insulation over the framing and then reinstalling the paneling but have not done that yet. It is not a major problem. If we did more winter camping, I would probably be more concerned about it.
OP
OP
Thanks for all the thoughts guys. 1" plus the fiber won't fit. I was thinking the fiber would be good because it conforms the the irregular shapes and gets rid of air spaces.
The reflectix could possibly help with thermal bridging, as it would be the only insulation on the actual framing.
Poky, it was actually your buildup that got me thinking of using rigid foam. Thanks for the inspiration! And using a table saw to cut the foam, I hadn't considered that option.... good to know!
Klahanie, yes, we did fix the roof leak by simply resealing all the roof screws with 3m 4200.
Huh, that info on needing an air gap with Reflecix is very interesting. My conclusion would be that there is no point in putting it behind the 1/8" wall boards, as they would be touching the Reflectix. However, using it on the ceiling would be useful as heat would radiate back down through the thin fabric covering it.
More pix and details to come, eventually!
The reflectix could possibly help with thermal bridging, as it would be the only insulation on the actual framing.
Poky, it was actually your buildup that got me thinking of using rigid foam. Thanks for the inspiration! And using a table saw to cut the foam, I hadn't considered that option.... good to know!
Klahanie, yes, we did fix the roof leak by simply resealing all the roof screws with 3m 4200.
Huh, that info on needing an air gap with Reflecix is very interesting. My conclusion would be that there is no point in putting it behind the 1/8" wall boards, as they would be touching the Reflectix. However, using it on the ceiling would be useful as heat would radiate back down through the thin fabric covering it.
More pix and details to come, eventually!
Good luck Vic! Look forward to pix.
OP
OP
Couple of pix from today... gotta go back and pull more pix to include here, but thought I would indicate progress! Two shots of the cabinets/drawers I built. 1/2 maple plywood.
Mighty Dodge Ram
Senior Member
Looks great! Quite a bit of craftsmanship.
lmwilco1
Advanced Member
Nice job, I hope mine comes looking as good as yours does.
OP
OP
thanks guys. I was planning on staining them a dark walnut. Not sure if I want to go that dark though. Thoughts?
Our vote is keep it light and bright for a small area. Nice work, Vic!
PaulT
Need gumbo
Vic,
Are you a cabinet maker in this or a previous life? Your buid looks really nice.
That green box looks like a Propex 2800 heater. Did you find that you need more heat than the 2000?
Is that location its installation location or just storage while you build out your unit?
How do you plan to plumb it into propane?
Where does the exhaust exit?
Paul
Are you a cabinet maker in this or a previous life? Your buid looks really nice.
That green box looks like a Propex 2800 heater. Did you find that you need more heat than the 2000?
Is that location its installation location or just storage while you build out your unit?
How do you plan to plumb it into propane?
Where does the exhaust exit?
Paul
Vic take a piece of scrap cabinet wood and try different stains out. I like a hickory mix with maple. But try a bunch. To reduce blotching. Pretreat the ply with Sealcoat wax-less shellac mixed 50% with alcohol.... it will raise the grain so a 220 sanding makes big difference. The stain will go on evenly.
Impressive Vic. My 2 cents would be to leave it natural, light Maple. Where is your h20 tank? Is that a glass sink or stove? How deep are the cabinets up front? That is unique. Nice uplifting top. Are u planning a table? At DVNP, trading FWC thoughts, I saw automatic garage door foam used as under floor insulation. It is very thin sheet, cut to fit, interesting.
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