Wander the East? - Fall colors trip planning

Vic Harder

Doctor Electric
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Calgary, Alberta
In a couple of years, my wife will be turning 60, and I promised her a 60 day fall colors trip. I see trip reports here for trips in the west, and we've done some of those... gorgeous aspen forests in Colorado come to mind, but we are thinking RED, maple trees and the east coast.

Has anyone done such a trip? We would be leaving from Calgary, Alberta, and driving through Minnesota, along the south shore of Lake Superior, then into Canada to Ottawa, to Montreal, then into New Brunswick, and over to Nova Scotia, PEI, and then down into the USA, maybe as far at Atlanta, before going west to Santa Fe and then heading back north and home.

I'm looking for recommendations on boondocking sites or nice FS or even park sites, remote/twisty roads (I want to do the Tail of the Dragon for sure), hiking trails, good eats, and times of year recommended for each area. The idea is to catch the colors as they turn in Canada and then follow them south.

We are not super keen on historical sites, but would tour them if we were there. Beach walks could be fun, but we usually prefer vertical and remote for our hikes.

Maybe because we prefer remote this is even a dumb idea. The east of North America is way more populated than the west. Maybe I should just plan another trip for golden fall colors.

Your ideas and thoughts are most welcome.

Vic

full
 
Vic,

West Virginia is a site to behold. Babcock State Park has a beautiful grist mill. Blackwater Falls is gorgeous in the fall.

Skyline drive is long and windy but will be popular if the colors are good.

Maine was wonderful though I was there in August so did not get to see the colors. Thats gonna be rectified when camper time comes:)

Good luck. If you get near Baltimore give me a shout!

https://www.flickr.com/photos/happyjax/15344883909/in/album-72157644755832700/

:D
 
What no love for NFLD ?, too sick of Newfies in AB ?! ;)

Have never done the trip but we will one day - at least part way. You have a long route and I don't envy you with the research to plow thru online ... you'll already know about the usually suspects: Bruce Penn, Muskoka, Cabot Trl, Fundy Coast etc. And prob know that some Prov Park and Tourism Boards maintain Fall Foliage Reports - if you have a year or two beforehand to monitor. The Weather Network and TripAdvisor are also useful for research.

For USA drives, I can only offer the Kancamagus Hwy in NH, one I've long heard about.

Enjoy the hunt !
 
Vic,

If your preference to remote approaches an aversion to crowds, much of the US part of the Appalachians during leaf season may not be for you.

That said, some ideas to consider would be:

Pass through New England to emerge in mid-upstate eastern NY and cross west into PA well wide of the NYC area (like 100 to 150 miles wide of it!). The actual site of the Woodstock festival is at Bethel, NY and is pretty cool to see for some of us. It's a nice bushwhack south of Bethel into PA through hardwood forests most of the way. US 209 along the Delaware River and Delaware Water Gap Nat Rec area is pretty nice (though pretty close to NYC/Newark, etc), as are any routes west of there through central PA's Pocono Mountains.

A little closer to me (Raleigh, NC) is the Blue Ridge, Shenandoah Valley, and the Alleghany Mountains of northern/west-central VA. Shenandoah National Park (NP) lies atop the Blue Ridge immediately south of I-66 in northern VA and Skyline Drive runs its length for 105 miles down to Rockfish Gap, where Shenandoah NP ends and the Blue Ridge Parkway (BRP) begins. The BRP then runs 469 miles to Cherokee, NC, generally atop the Blue Ridge Mountains all the way. Some think 574 twisty, slow miles, most if not all of it fully choked with leaf season traffic is too much of a good thing. I am one of those people. But a drive parallel to I-81 through the 200 mile long Shenandoah Valley (the Valley) can be great. Massanutten Mountain is a 60 mile long sandstone ridge in the middle of the Valley and is within National Forest (NF) lands for both disbursed and campground (CG) camping. On the west side of the 30 mile wide Valley are the Alleghanies, also mostly within NF lands. Ridgetop driving and disbursed camping can be had west of Harrisonburg, VA at Reddish Knob and Flagpole Knob. South of there in the Alleghanies are Warm Springs and Hot Springs, VA, well within the "fold belt" of the Alleghanies simply meaning the terrain is long sandstone ridges (like dozens and dozens of miles) and long pastoral limestone valleys in between. Much of the ridge lands are NF lands. At Warm Springs, VA are the Jefferson Pools, where emanates one of only two natural hot springs in the Eastern US. Hidden Valley NF CG is around 5 miles west of there and is a rather secluded NF CG with miles of hiking trails along ridges and along the Jackson River.

Further south and on the east side of I-81 the BRP starts to pick up elevations of over 4,000' (ultimately reaching nearly 7,000' at Mount Mitchell, NC) and the width of the Blue Ridge Mountains rises from 10-12 miles out to, ultimately, +50 miles. Fun places to visit include Damascus, VA, where a rails-to-trails bike path called the Virginia Creeper Trail makes for a fine Autumn ride, but only Monday-Thursday, as weekend crowds are thick. The eastern half of the VCT is 17 miles all downhill from Whitetop Station back to Damascus, so the normal trip is to rent bikes and pay for a shuttle in Damascus, be driven 30 minutes up to Whitetop, and gently cruise 2.5-3.0 hours back to Damascus. Around 1/3 of the route is along nice mountain streams and it's pretty much all within NF lands composed of unbroken hardwood forest. Around $30/pp gets you a nice Trek fat tire comfort cruiser and the shuttle up the mountain--a great deal.

I'd recommend Boone and Blowing Rock, NC but proximity to the densely populated NC Piedmont means Autumn weekends and even weekday crowds along the BRP can take a lot of the fun away. But, Julian Price Memorial Park CG and Grandfather Mountain State Park's backcountry trails, each just south on the BRP from Blowing Rock, stand out as places worthy of a mid-week shot. A nice 3.5 mile trail from Milepost 300 gains 2,000' to Calloway Peak (the highest of the 5 peaks making up Grandfather Mountain) at just under 6,000' and features 100 mile views on a clear day.

South of there and on the far western edge of the Blue Ridge Mountains is Erwin, TN, where the Appalachian Trail (AT) crosses the Nolichucky River. Lots of good section-hiking along the AT, including the Roan Balds, a stretch of a dozen miles largely treeless up top and holding elevations between 5,000' and 6,300' . Paddling the Nolichucky can be a lot of fun and the take-out is right by the AT outside of Erwin. A nice riverside commercial CG close to the take-out provides opportunity to get out of the river and get dry and warm without a long bus ride back to town.

Further south and back in the middle of the Blue Ridge is Hot Springs, NC, home of the second natural hot springs in the East. The AT goes right through town, as does the French Broad River, so there's a nonstop hiking/single-track/paddling vibe. Hot Springs is pretty much surrounded by NF lands with lots of off-highway graded gravel road driving and practically unlimited disbursed camping, plus a goodly selection of NF CGs. The Hot Springs Resort owns the Springs and the large riverside CG. Each are a bit spendy but being right at the edge of town, thus walking distance to lots of fun restaurants and bars, has its advantages. The hot springs are piped into about a dozen Jacuzzi-style tubs, each fully privacy screened with one open side facing the French Broad River or Springs Creek. Also spendy at around $30/hour, but a fine way to relax from hiking/paddling/driving all day. And the springs are BYOB, if you like that kind of thing.

Similar to my reservations about Boone-Blowing Rock, I can't in good faith recommend visiting the Great Smoky Mountains NP in Autumn. It's the most-visited NP of all and it's basically wall-to-wall cars and RVs during October's leaf season. I wouldn't go there then if you paid me to.

In general, the colors of course start in the north and travel south. But beware of the significant effect which elevation has on the timing of peak colors. For example, elevations between 4,000' and 6,000' in the Blue Ridge will peak within a few days to a week of October 15. At the same latitude, but down at around 1,000'-2,000', peak won't be before the 3rd-4th week in October. I would guess peak colors in the Green Mountains and White Mountains in Vermont and New Hampshire would be the very last part of September/very earliest part of October but that lower elevation parts of New England would be more like the Blue Ridge's mid-October peak. Bottom line is to just be aware that peak in lower elevation parts of New England is happening more-or-less simultaneously with peak at higher elevations about 1,000 miles to the south.

Sounds like a fine plan is simmering. Please don't tell my wife, lest she insist on the same thing!

Foy
 
We're doing something similar next year so will follow the responses. We've planned the normal "stuff" (Fundy, Labrador, etc.) and thinking about the Trans Labrador Hwy. if anyone has done that and has any input.
 
Vic, Maine, Vermont, upstate NY. In Vermont, in Stowe great state park and colors will be amazing. All up around Bar Harbor Maine, Acadia NP. Finger Lakes and Aderondack's. Get your fall reservations in. Enjoy. jd
 
Hi Vic!

I do hope you get a chance to see the East. It's definitely not like the West but it has its own beauty.

As a former New Hampshire native I can second the Kangamagus Highway. There is a campground at the base of Mt. Lafayette that used to be nice. Also consider driving up the auto Road to the top of Mt. Washington, the geology is fascinating and is similar to the Article Circle. It is also famous for have the worst recorded weather in the world!

Drifting South I would reccomend Skyline Drive and then the Blue Ridge Parkway. Unfortunately you will not be alone but there are several campgrounds along the way. There are also several nice hikes.

Going into NC I would suggest staying at Mile High Campground. It is a primitive site on Cherokee land and has some of the best sunsets I've ever seen in the East. You might also be able to see some of the recently reintroduced elk!

If your travels take you anywhere Roanoke, Va we'd love to host you for a day or two and show you our area...
 
Fall color can be great in Minnesota, Wisconsin and Michigan. The Lake Superior shore is a popular destination in the fall (especially so in Minnesota) so planning ahead with some reservations would be good. There are national forests in all those states where dispersed camping is allowed and rustic campgrounds may have sites. You could check our blog for some ideas of places to visit.

Most northern states have online fall color tracking for tourists so finding those sites this fall and using them to figure out timing is a good idea. The challenge is that every year is different and one area might be great one year and not the next, or early one year and late the next. The good news is that there are great sites to see all along the way, even if the color thing doesn't work out.

If you have questions along the way- post up. Lots of people here to give advice.
 
Vic, while I'm still partial to Fall on my beloved eastern side of Sierra/Cascades interface with the NW Great Basin, I will never ever forget the Fall I spent as a young soldier at Fort Devins, Mass. If you want reds, yellows, and vivid fall colors, yep, New England is the place to be and I would add it to any fall trip! Of course, trying to figure out what regular coffee is, is another matter :cautious: !

Smoke
 
Vic,. Choices and more choices. Great recommendations from everyone. It all has to do with time. We have really come to love New England and the East coast. With that said, Maine, Vermont, New Hampshire, and upper NY will be seeing more of us. In 2021 the mortgage is paid and we will be going on 4-6 week trips. The changing of the leaves can be a crap shoot, so if you have a 2-3 week window you should nail it.
 

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