water tank in eagle?

[claws]

New guy here with a question about my old FWC. I have an Eagle FWC that I purchased at the Woodland store about the time I bought my Tacoma. I think this was in 2000 or 2001. The plastic valve to the water supply on the outside of the shell broke off some time ago. I managed to remove the remaining piece of the 3/8" PVC nipple from the bottom of the water tank through the hole where the valve used to be. I tried to replace the broken valve with a 3/8" brass nipple and brass ball valve. I've managed to strip the threads in the connection in the bottom of the water tank and now I'm stuck with a water tank that won't hold water. What I need to know is; what is the easiest way to gain access to the water tank? It seems to be under the 2 burner stove and behind the propane valve in the cabinet that houses the breaker panel.

I guess I could slather the brass nipple with silicone caulk and just cram it up into the hole in the bottom of the tank but that doesn't seem like a very elegant or secure fix.

Any advice will be appreciated.

Thanks, Kim

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

New guy here with a question about my old FWC. I have an Eagle FWC that I purchased at the Woodland store about the time I bought my Tacoma. I think this was in 2000 or 2001. The plastic valve to the water supply on the outside of the shell broke off some time ago. I managed to remove the remaining piece of the 3/8" PVC nipple from the bottom of the water tank through the hole where the valve used to be. I tried to replace the broken valve with a 3/8" brass nipple and brass ball valve. I've managed to strip the threads in the connection in the bottom of the water tank and now I'm stuck with a water tank that won't hold water. What I need to know is; what is the easiest way to gain access to the water tank? It seems to be under the 2 burner stove and behind the propane valve in the cabinet that houses the breaker panel.

I guess I could slather the brass nipple with silicone caulk and just cram it up into the hole in the bottom of the tank but that doesn't seem like a very elegant or secure fix.

Any advice will be appreciated.

Thanks, Kim

Welcome to the"cult" Kim. It might be easier to do the patch work.You could use epoxy around the nipple to assure a no-leak but in the future that might pose a problem just depends weather you will ever want to change the nipple. I would go for the epoxy,IMO.Good luck.
Frank

 

[claws]

Welcome to the"cult" Kim. It might be easier to do the patch work.You could use epoxy around the nipple to assure a no-leak but in the future that might pose a problem just depends weather you will ever want to change the nipple. I would go for the epoxy,IMO.Good luck.
Frank


Thanks for the advice, Frank. I think I'll take it. Any special epoxy I should use?

Kim

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

Thanks for the advice, Frank. I think I'll take it. Any special epoxy I should use?

Kim

I have had luck with the "2" tube type that you can get at any hardware store. You just push out the amount from both tubes you will need and mix together. It's pretty simple and will work. Just be careful when you thread the valve back on that you don't over tighten and break the epoxied area.
Good luck,Frank

 

[BSS]

There are lots of options out there for repair. Personally (believe it or not,) I use shoe goo for this type of repair.

Glue a nylon elbow in there and run some tubing to a check valve mounted somewhere easier to get to on the exterior that won't require repeatedly fiddling with the repaired area. Make sure you drain the system completely if you live where it freezes or your connectors will split and you'll probably be buying a new tank.

 

[marty]

You can call 1-800-446-1003 and ask for that older tank that is sitting on a shelf that came out of a remodel. We happen to have one from 1990 and 1992. We keep these older parts around for this kind of thing. The older part is no cost however shipping is on you.
P.S. If you remove the front of your cabinet you can swap out the tank in about an hour.
These tanks measure 13 5/8 by 11 1/2 by 16 7/8 and the threads are good. Marty

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

Thanks for the advice, Frank. I think I'll take it. Any special epoxy I should use?

Kim

Kim if you haven't worked on that valve yet you might check out Martys offer at ATC.These are great people to deal with and can offer a lot of help.Also the idea of mounting the valve another place is something to also think about. When Marty mounted my Bobcat from the Ranger to the Tundra they had to move the valve to the rear of the camper and I like it there better.Just more info to think about.
Good luck. Frank

 

[claws]

You can call 1-800-446-1003 and ask for that older tank that is sitting on a shelf that came out of a remodel. We happen to have one from 1990 and 1992. We keep these older parts around for this kind of thing. The older part is no cost however shipping is on you.
P.S. If you remove the front of your cabinet you can swap out the tank in about an hour.
These tanks measure 13 5/8 by 11 1/2 by 16 7/8 and the threads are good. Marty


Thanks Marty. I'm going to try another repair first, but if I still have a leak I'll give you a call and take you up on your most generous offer.

Kim

 

[claws]

There are lots of options out there for repair. Personally (believe it or not,) I use shoe goo for this type of repair.

Glue a nylon elbow in there and run some tubing to a check valve mounted somewhere easier to get to on the exterior that won't require repeatedly fiddling with the repaired area. Make sure you drain the system completely if you live where it freezes or your connectors will split and you'll probably be buying a new tank.


Thanks for the info, BSS. I'll give this a try before I start taking my camper apart to replace the tank.

Kim

 

[cwdtmmrs]

This a no-brainer, get the new tank. Plastics can be hard to cement. I doubt if epoxy will work.

CWD

 

[Argonaut20]

The new tank is the way to go unless you actually enjoy 'repairing' the same thing over and over. Repairs don't hold and the time spent trying to repair is wasted time, especially when you can get a decent tank for the price of shipping.

 

[claws]

The new tank is the way to go unless you actually enjoy 'repairing' the same thing over and over. Repairs don't hold and the time spent trying to repair is wasted time, especially when you can get a decent tank for the price of shipping.


I think that I have solved my problem. My neighbor managed to reinstall my brass fittings and everything seems to work fine now. No leaks, and the install seems solid. I will have to remove the handle on the ball valve during transport, and when I'm away from camp, so that ne'er do wells and the occasional tree branch don't open the valve and deplete my water supply. I always carry spare water jugs anyway.