Hand crank roof lift assist

BozemanHawk

Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2012
Messages
12
Too much stuff on my roof(fly rod holder, ski racks, and the yakima itself all add up and the roof is getting harder to raise.
Has anyone used the hand crank assist instead of the shocks? The fwc website lists it as an option and i'd rather not get the struts as often talked about here.
Thoughts?
 
I have a new FWC Hawk Shell with solar panel Yamaha 5 foot on the roof with the assist and I still had a hard time. The crank worked for me. I found the same type of crank unit on the Guitar Center web site it is a speaker lifter mount. I just had to remove the leg's and I use small block's of wood scrap to put on the floor and on top on the lift panel that you push up with and crank the top up. ( this is NOT my original idea I found it some where on this web site ) Last year. It works great. Larry....
 
Also, I think FWC uses two different pressures of shocks. Not positive you have the inside shocks now but if so, I am guessing you probably have the stronger shocks but it would not hurt to look. Someone here might be able to chime in and tell you what to look for.

A friend got his Hawk with no solar and just the Yakima rails. His configuration came with lower pressure shocks. Once he put the additional Yakima hardware on the roof, he needed the higher pressure shocks.

But, my personal experience is that it is still hard to lift the roof at the back end, even with the stronger shocks installed. And this is probably your issue as well.

Steve
 
Too much stuff on my roof(fly rod holder, ski racks, and the yakima itself all add up and the roof is getting harder to raise.
Has anyone used the hand crank assist instead of the shocks? The fwc website lists it as an option and i'd rather not get the struts as often talked about here.
Thoughts?


I have the hand crank system in my hallmark and it is very quick and easy to crank the roof up and I haven't had any problems with it. I don't have anything on my roof but can imagine that it would be more difficult to raise if you started putting a lot of gear up there. I have had several occasions with snow on the roof and it definitely took more oomph to operate the crank. I like the hand crank system however, as it raises the entire roof equally at the same time. I say this because when lowering the roof I close the door and windows, reverse the fan so it creates a vacuum. I then lower the roof slowly with the crank and as the entire roof comes down equally the negative pressure pulls the soft wall into the camper which means no running around tucking in or having to check for soft wall getting pinched. Not a big deal but I like that.

Good Camping!
Paul
 
The strongest strut FWC uses is rated at an 80lb lift capacity. I have them on my Grandby also with solar and 10' Yakima system. The rear still takes a good push to get started and was thinking about getting the hand crank because my wife uses it by herself sometimes. Don't really want to add additional struts.
 
...when lowering the roof I close the door and windows, reverse the fan so it creates a vacuum. I then lower the roof slowly with the crank and as the entire roof comes down equally the negative pressure pulls the soft wall into the camper which means no running around tucking in or having to check for soft wall getting pinched.

Interesting, that sounds like a real good idea. By 'reverse the fan' do you mean drawing air into the camper via the roof vent, or pushing it out? Creation of a vacuum would suggest the latter to me, but have I got it backwards?
 
I have a new FWC Hawk Shell with solar panel Yamaha 5 foot on the roof with the assist and I still had a hard time. The crank worked for me. I found the same type of crank unit on the Guitar Center web site it is a speaker lifter mount. I just had to remove the leg's and I use small block's of wood scrap to put on the floor and on top on the lift panel that you push up with and crank the top up. ( this is NOT my original idea I found it some where on this web site ) Last year. It works great. Larry....


Is this what you are speaking of, Larry? Crank Speaker Stand
 
Yes that is the one I bought. Just take off the legs and it works fine.


Note there are a variety of lengths and weight capacity available in these stands
 
I have that stand also and it works great and stores easily behind the sofa back. For the door area, I just lift the stand so it sets on the refer ledge. And I use the water tank ledge for the back. Just make sure you place the top next to the screws so you don't break the cross beam. I love the crank and can't imagin having to deal with the shocks but I don't have a lot of weight on top.
 
By 'reverse the fan' do you mean drawing air into the camper via the roof vent, or pushing it out? Creation of a vacuum would suggest the latter to me, but have I got it backwards?


Referring to running the fan so it is blowing air out of the camper, thus creating a vacuum pulling the soft sides in.
 
Yes that is the one I bought. Just take off the legs and it works fine.


Here is one more happy camper. I have a bad back and like to keep the canoe on top. A speaker stand with about 100lb capacity works great. Yes, take the legs off.
The crank jack has served several other purposes as well and is a very useful thing to have on board. Get one before you injure yourself lifting or lowering the loaded roof.
 
Interesting, that sounds like a real good idea. By 'reverse the fan' do you mean drawing air into the camper via the roof vent, or pushing it out? Creation of a vacuum would suggest the latter to me, but have I got it backwards?


Yes, pushing the air out of the camper.l
 
I ordered the speaker stand when I ordered the 150w panel for the roof. Now have a 100w (20#'s) and 150w (24#'s) on the roof, with my bad back wanted some help. I have internal struts, but the first push to get started is hard. Goes right up with the speaker stand, crank is fast enough I will not be carrying a drill. Lowering is not a problem and will not be using the speaker stand to lower. Has anyone else notice how much flex the lift board gets? I have the lift pads close to the center roof frame but not right on it, latch and front lift bar are there. I may add outside struts later sized for the load I have.
IMG_1087.jpgIMG_1085.jpgIMG_1086.jpgIMG_1090.jpg
 
Phird05 said:
Yes, pushing the air out of the camper.l
When we went to the Hallmark factory Matt showed us the ability to use a cordless screw gun and it makes the raising and lowering the top a breeze.
 
Originally I used another cordless drill. Then I took an old heavy duty cordless where all batteries died so I wired it to cigarette lighter plug so I always have power:)

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Wander The West mobile app
 

New posts

Try RV LIFE Pro Free for 7 Days

  • New Ad-Free experience on this RV LIFE Community.
  • Plan the best RV Safe travel with RV LIFE Trip Wizard.
  • Navigate with our RV Safe GPS mobile app.
  • and much more...
Try RV LIFE Pro Today
Back
Top Bottom