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Can't top those stories but here are mine: 1. Rattling down a washboard road on the Pacific side of Baja in an '81 Toyota 4x4 at about 50 and hear a big "whack!" under the floorboards and lose power. Look under the truck and my fears are confirmed when I see the front end of the driveshaft...

The foam is 4" thick. Replaced with 4" foam as well--didn't realize there was thinner foam in some campers.

Stock foam from mattress, long seat cushion, two regular seat cushions, and short end cushion (i.e. all but one seat cushion) from 2003 FWC Hawk. Foam is in perfectly usable condition, I just needed a higher-density foam mattress for my back's sake and it was cheap to do the seats...

Normally I shy away from the cheap plastic gimmicks at the RV stores because, well, they're cheap, plastic, and gimmicky. In a weak moment brought on by a heavy dose of VOCs fuming out of the shelves at the RV shop, I sprung $8.99 for one of those cheesy plasticky things: a "Pop-a-Plate." When...

After having a welder stitch together just about every weld on the front wall frame ($40 labor, not bad), I got the new wall skin on. The window cut-out was a yatch. Wish I'd had a router to cut out the window as ntsqd suggested. I got it done this weekend with some tin snips and expletives...

That's a good laugh. This just in...Yellowstone tourist injured in an attempt to post a selfie while driving. Film at 11.

Mine came with a Fiamma that looks to have been installed by FWC. It's 11 years old and in really good shape still. I have used it on every trip so far and would not buy another camper without one. No rattles and it stays rolled up on washboards. Super easy to set up and put away, much easier...

Thanks, Stan, I have gotten the sense from pics of newer frames that they are built better now, and I am glad to have that confirmed as I will be buyin FWC again in the future. Mine is a 2003 and was dragged around on a trailer by the prior owner. You guys are always very helpful when I call...

I have a lot of fun with the Hawk, but some things irk me. I have to share this one. Not meaning to disparage FWC, but, I'm hoping that the welds are better now in newer campers. The outer skin on the front wall had torn at the corners of the windows and at the inside corners of the wings...

Another option is of course to put a solar panel on top of the camper, park it in the sun...set it and forget it! I haven't had to mess with cords and chargers at all since going solar. That leaves me plenty of time to fuss with the rest of the camper that is falling apart.

I used flat bracket with two hooks, it came with the steps. Similar to the L-bracket at e-trailer, but it's just a flat bar. Lagged it straight through the trim strip at the bottom of the camper, into the plywood floor. It is solid and makes it easy to take the steps on and off. It's held up...

You can get the square nuts directly from Yakima if you just call them, for only a few bucks. Then go to any good hardware store and find the metric allen bolts (or any metric bolt really) at the length you need so they don't bottom out into the tracks. That's how I attached my solar panel.

I have a Yakima fairing on my 2003 Tundra/Hawk combo, inspired by Lighthawk. Got it used, not sure on the width off-hand. At first I wasn't convinced it did anything, then I took it off and was reminded of how much wind noise I was getting even at low speeds without the fairing. I put it back...

I wouldn't do it--those are small screws compared to the through-bolts that the rain gutter pieces use, and the aluminum holding the screws is thin. Maybe you could through-bolt there but you'd have to tear into the interior headliner to do that. Regardless you would end up with all of the...

At the risk of turning this into a battery box thread...we all have our preferences; one other preference I have for not using a battery box is that with most battery boxes, the box is strapped or screwed down but the battery is bouncing around in the box--not a good situation for the battery on...

Whether the leakage is into a box or onto the linoleum floor, the hazard from any (albeit rare) AGM battery leakage is not from the small amount of fluid, but from any gases that might vent through the crack in the battery shell. A battery box doesn't reduce that hazard at all unless the box is...

DrJ- As you've probably gathered on the forum, if you already have a three-way fridge, switching to a compressor fridge is typically much simpler than the icebox-to-fridge project on this thread. You can get a compressor fridge with the same rough-in dimensions as your three-way, and you already...

You can ditch the battery box with an AGM, which should free up room. Strap the battery down directly to the floor instead.

Dr. J- Your system looks great for a compressor fridge. Dump the three-way and eat ice cream! It's vacation!

I've been using a FullRiver battery (http://www.fullriver.com/products/admin/upfile/DC115-12A.pdf) with good success. Granted, it has been less than a year. It has a bit more juice (115 amp hours vs. 93) for a few less pounds. It was available locally for $240, so I imagine it would be...

Preparing to replace the front wall skin on my Hawk with a new skin that I bought from FWC (VERY reasonable price, I'm glad to say). Anyone out there with advice on installation methods? After welding the broken frame welds that I expect to find underneath the existing, torn skin, my plan is to...

For sale is a complete set of four heavy duty/wide jack brackets from Reico-Titan, in original packaging with all original mounting hardware. These are brand-new and have never been installed. Includes everything in the original kit at https://www.riecotitan.com/store/productpage.php?prod=220...

Found a nice set of jacks via a forum member. Thanks WTW!

Thanks for the props!