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That really doesn't look too bad. I would use 3M 4200 or 5200, as it will work as both an adhesive and a sealant. You could replace the corner trim if you want it to look nicer, but it could likely just be bent back into shape, sealed, and re-screwed with some longer screws.

I used 3M 4200 and haven't had an issue with them since.

So, what, you loaded up and weighed yourself one time and you'll never be over the GVWR of your vehicle? Geez. Give me a break.

After owning, building, and camping in quite a number of vehicles from a first-year Toyota 4x4 and up, I would never consider putting a slide-in camper on anything smaller than a 3/4 ton again. You WILL end up way over GVWR; really, you will. The first question you should ask yourself, before...

Mine was quite challenging to remove. There are four nut/hex-head screws. The front of the cabinet cover comes off easily with four screws. Then the front two screws into the IOTA area easy. For the back two, I had to get a 1/4" socket with extension fed in there and could just barely feel the...

Build a platform or sawhorses for it to sit on. Lower it onto the platform, and either remove or disconnect the jacks.

Depends on the build of the camper. There are different dimensions on different campers. Is this a new camper? Ask the factory, or seller, for the height from the bottom to the underside of the bed rail overhang.

I carry a Jump n Carry JNC 660. I have used it several times. Great backup battery for a big truck.

Those bolt hangers would work fine, but it's more about the backing you use. You'd need to put a big plate on the other side (bottom) of the bed. I used SS boat/marine bow eyes in my truck. They have held up great.

6.6L Duramax, 4 AWG copper wire to Blue Sea SiACR to AGMs, I was getting between 14 and 83 amps. I have since changed my setup to a single LiFePo battery and a sterling marine charger, and get a consistent 28 amps.

Internal tie downs have a lot going for them. I would recommend reinforcing the inside of the camper with some 1/4" aluminum or 1/8" steel plate to help distribute the load.

You don't have room to install the shunt directly next to, or on, the battery?

Bill: in my opinion, you're better off just installing a shunt-based monitor next to the battery. The shunt doesn't need a lot of space, and it's reasonably accurate. If you want to measure just the fridge, shut off everything except for the fridge and run it for 24 hours under your desired...

I have had a 1UP for many years; one of the early ones. Solid, solid rack. Great choice.

I have had the best luck with 3M 4200, but it is not self-leveling. You have to tool it into place, and it does not provide a smooth finished surface. It seals very very well though. For self-leveling sealant, Sikaflex 715 is the best I have used. Dicor doesn't hold up very long in my experience.

Great post by Old Crow. Are you positive you're getting spark? I have the same furnace. Mine is very picky about voltage, as well as gas flow. I have to run the stove before I use mine, or I have a similar problem. Also, if the voltage to the furnace is too low, which can be caused by either a...

Those are called crimp rings. You can just replace them with standard hose clamps, which are readily available. As Wandering Sagebrush said, you probably need a pressure regulator. I don't hook up a pressurized line to my camper. Instead, I just fill the tank and re-fill as needed.

Good info from Rando above. Here's an easy-to-use chart, as well: https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/Marine-Wire-Size-And-Ampacity The wiring on my stock IOTA charger were severely undersized (in addition to the fact that my IOTA charger was never even wired up at the factory- oops!). You...

Nice job Vic.

Nice!

Batteries are specced with a max charge current. As Vic stated below you, many batteries can accept a 1C charge. That's not the same as self-regulating. For a 275AH battery, as in Vic's, or your, example, with a 1C charge rate, it's unlikely to be an issue. If someone hooks up a 35AH battery to...

Unfortunately, that's not how it works. You will fry a FLA battery by pushing too many amps into it.

It's OK if you don't get it. "We" are not giving advice. I'm giving my advice, and you're giving yours. You are, indeed, being argumentative. Stating that you're "not trying to be" doesn't have any effect on that. That's OK, too.

There are quite a few ways you could end up with current flowing through the negative wire. Reverse polarity hookup, shorted battery (internally), etc. People hook up equipment improperly quite often, which can result in a short. Many 12v electronics have a 16v diode across the negative...

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