Cutting out some of the framing

[Vic Harder]

Today I was going to install the propane door (tall narrow version) in the same place I installed one on my last camper (2002 FWC Hawk) - on the driver’s side next to the back door. I discovered to my dismay that the framing is different on my Puma.

Hawk framing

Puma framing

Now I am wondering if I can cut away enough of this framing to install my door, without compromising the integrity of the camper. I’ve marked up the picture showing the 3 pieces that need to be cut out. I could add in a section of the thicker vertical (closest to the door) tubing across the top of the opening to reinforce it.

What do you think?

 

[K6ON]

Why wouldn't they be different? One's an ATC, the other a FWC. Call Marty and ask about the integrity of the wall, he can answer your questions.

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Why wouldn't they be different? One's an ATC, the other a FWC. Call Marty and ask about the integrity of the wall, he can answer your questions.

Plus 1... Marty or Jeff are your best bets for an accurate answer.

 

[ski3pin]

Having seen so many frames welded up at the ATC shop, I have complete confidence in their knowledge about strength, design, and longevity, in how to put a frame together. They are also extremely helpful with sharing that knowledge. I echo what Bob and Sage have said - (800)-446-1003

 

[Vic Harder]

Thanks for the encouragement to call them. I sent them those pics yesterday as well, which made calling Jeff today a whole lot quicker/easier as he could "see" what I was talking about.

In short, Jeff assured me that my plan would work. Well, I have to laugh... he said "You can cut anything you want..." with a hint of sarcasm in his voice before he added "But I would sure want to reinforce that area too"

My plan of using a piece of the thicker bar left over from the surgery to reinforce the section horizontally at the top should be sufficient.

Cutting happens tonight!

 

[ClimberRob]

How did this go?

 

[Vic Harder]

Went pretty well as expected. Scary to start, but once into it, I was committed. I used a variety of drill bits, sheet metal sheers, pliers, and a Sawzall, and the primary too, my jig saw. Difficulties came where there were spot welds, and corners to shape with not enough room for the jig saw foot to rest on the sheet metal. Plus there is JUST enough room between the remaining structural vertical members for the door itself.

Hole marked out

Pilot holes drilled

Rough hole cut

Door mounted. Sealed with white Butyl tape. I used Dicor lap sealant on my Hawk and didn't like how it discolored and showed on the outside. Tape is much cleaner, and the excess butyl is easily trimmed back

Dual bottles placed. Simple holes in a chunk of plywood help position the bottles so they don't touch. I added eye hooks and bungee cords later to hold them firmly in place.

Single bottle in process afterwards... whew!

 

[Beach]

I've been considering doing the same on my Hawk so I can replace the horizontal tank with a standard 20lb. Vic, can you please provide the source for the new door assy. Are you planning on sealing the compartment air tight to prevent propane from leaking into the interior of the camper?

 

[Vic Harder]

I got my door from FWC. ATC sells them too.

Good eye on the lack of sealing. Since the pics were taken, I have installed a propane detector and sealed every seam in that box area.

I tested the propane detector, and was surprised by how bad a "leak" needs to be to set it off. I tested it because I can smell something in the cabinet that holds the stove, but it is nowhere near enough to set off the detector. I guess my nose is hyper sensitive!

 

[5outta6]

Do you have a pic of how you 'reinforced ' the area where you cut out the framing?

 

[ClimberRob]

Nice job Vic.

 

[Vic Harder]

have not done that yet. barely got it done as is before heading out on our 5 week trip to Utah. we’re enjoying the camper a whole bunch!

 

[DanoT]

I mostly use my camper to stay in ski area parking lots in winter so I can confirm that 2 20lb tanks is the way to go. If you haven't already done so then I would suggest getting one of those propane switch over valves that automatically goes from empty tank to the full one because as you no doubt know, the tank always goes empty in the middle of a cold night.

If the door louvers are the only vent to the outside, then they are too high up on the door as propane is heavier than air. It is probably too much of a pain to flip the door around in order to get the louvers at the bottom, so drilling a hole or holes in the bottom of the cabinet might be the way to go.