1976 Co alaskan need help

[Doublegwhiz]

Hi all, just purchased a new to me 1976 Co alaskan. All is in pretty good shape, but I am at a loss with the hydraulics. Replaced all ram seals and Jack seals. Still will not lift. What am I missing? Felt like I had some resistance when pumping, then nothing, like it went flat. Will get some pics up soon. This will be a long term project for me. Thanks for any and all input in advance.

 

[Ripperj]

I would start from the beginning. Is there plenty of fluid? Is the raise/lower valve shut properly(maybe damaged?) have you looked for leaks, maybe in the hidden "Tees" (I recall mine had two under the water tank)

It's a pretty simple system, with new jack and piston rings, fluid and the valve shut, hard to believe it wouldn't work at all.

 

[Ripperj]

The valve I was referring to was the ball valve(not sure if all years had one), but if you have a manual jack, check the valve on that too, maybe it doesn't seat properly

 

[Doublegwhiz]

Thanks for the reply. It is very strange. I will check the raise/lower valve again. Seems like that is the most obvious culprit.

 

[Rusty]

Welcome to the group

It's not clear whether you're lifting after repairing the cylinders or from the down position?.....

 

[Doublegwhiz]

Thanks for the welcome. Top has not been able to lift at all. I completely removed all cylinders to replace the o-rings. After reinstalling I am getting fluid at all 4 corners with the lines loosened. After tightening I am not finding any leaks, but the top still will not raise. Bench testing of the pump seems to function fine, but installed there is no resistancexception while pumping. I am now thinking I have an issue with the lowering valve not sealing correctly.

 

[Doublegwhiz]

Also, for the curious...here is a terrible picture from this weekend when I picked it up. Needs a good bath, but besides the lifting issue everything seems to work.

 

[Rusty]

So the system is re-assembled now and no leaks are obvious......

try this...open the valve at the pump the same as if you are lowering the top

pump for 1-2 minutes...then close the valve and check your fluid level...if it's low (and it should be)...refill and repeat the procedure, 2 or 3 times is normal...you're filling the cylinders

when the system is filled there will be a full pump with the valve closed after the procedure is done.

at that point you should be able to leave the valve closed and lift the top....we'll cross our fingers for you

Those jacks you have are the original Bock jacks...square drive...hopefully you have a handle or two for them...they are hard to find....drill fittings are available online.....check the gears on the jacks for wear..it was common for them to wear out gears......newer gears are hardened...but aren't cheap...I just happened to have a few extra gears for those

 

[Doublegwhiz]

Thanks for the detailed response Rusty. I will give it a shot this afternoon and let you know the results. Camper came with 2 square drive handles and a drill bit, so all set there. Thanks again for the well wishes.

 

[Doublegwhiz]

No luck. Seems to be something wrong with the pump. I have fluid at all four corners, but no pressure to raise the top. Fluid just cavitates in the reservoir. Downstroke on the pump just pushes fluid back into the reservoir even with fluid at all four corners. Almost like the ball bearing under the pump cylinder has failed, but it doesn't appear to be serviceable. Very odd. To give a bit more info, the previous owner stated it just failed one day. No leaks, or other issues. Just went to lift it one day and it would not work. I know it worked previously for him because he showed me pictures of it camping with the top up. At a loss for now.

 

[Willys Addict]

does it look close to this.

 

[Doublegwhiz]

Hi Willy's, yes. It looks identical. Same color paint and everything.

 

[Ripperj]

I have one that came out of a '84. It works great, new piston seal. Paint is rough.

If you are interested let me know, not sure what it's worth, probably less than 10 grand) :

 

[Willys Addict]

Well they are off the shelf O-Rings, a spring and ball. Think of this as your run of the mill hydraulic jack (without the ram) you now have four remote ones. Remove it and get it to bench level, if your worried about loosing something put it in an old cookie sheet. everything comes apart down to what you see, use some brake clean to flush out the tank and system lightly polish the ram and bore, clean the spring and check ball good make sure there is no varnish build up. reassemble with new o rings (lubricated) I use Sill-Glide,which is a brake assemble grease. You can even test bench it with a cheep gauge or plug, just not so much it blows a seal. Reinstall and lift away. OR purchase the one above of coarse.

 

[Doublegwhiz]

Well, I feel dumb, but I got it figured out. Thanks to all who replied. I am going to post the issue here in case any other alaskan newbie runs into the same problem. The snap ring in the release valve had slipped into the groove behind the o-ring restricting the ball from seating properly, so my initial hunch was correct. A picture probably would have helped you all diagnose in a few seconds. Once I realised the snap ring did not belong there, up it went. Thanks again everyone for the warm welcome. Many more adventures to come I am sure.

 

[Willys Addict]

you got it working and thats what matters.

 

[Rusty]

you got it working and thats what matters.

hear hear

 

[Doublegwhiz]

Well, the old truck wasn't cutting it...stepped up to a 1 ton. Went out for a shakedown run over the weekend. Woke up to a bit of snow, but all in all, a great first trip. Heater sure worked nice! Hopefully many more to come.

 

[Willys Addict]

Congrats on a weekend well done with little issues.

 

[ski3pin]

Yes, congrats on your first trip!