2017 - about ready to throw the heater in the garbage.

Hi AdvBound

I still say good job on the trouble shooting and sticking with it. Funny how things work out. Seems like you found the problem, simple to verify right. Just think you’re hard work is going to help others.

Russ
 
Doesn't it seem like FWC should have caught this when the furnace didn't light while doing QC. They should make sure all systems are working before they go out the door. I had a problem with my 2016 Grandby where there were some wires not connected which caused my batteries not to be charging from the converter, it was only charging from the solar. We had to return it to the factory for other problems, but when we did they found a block of wires that had not been stripped before they were put into the connectors.

I think it was because we had ordered it without the batteries that no one checked the wiring, but still, they should be checking to make sure everything works.

Your right to wonder if other campers also have the wrong heater. Mine does work fine so I assume it is the correct one.

I've heard that it is common in the RV industry to have a year full of problems in motor homes. The companies don't want to do the QC so they let the customers sort out the problems.
 
I'm in no way implying FWC is at fault here, assuming that is the issue. I think Dometic/Atwood had a design flaw and FWC used and mounted the furnace in accordance to what the manufacturer stated. Again, I am not 100% sure what I found is the issue but until I'm proven wrong I am sticking with it.
 
Found a solution!

I got to thinking of Old Crows idea of modifying the sail switch with a larger paddle. That then lead me to - I can see gaps around whete the sail switch where it mounts to the blower motor. Could it be enough air is escaping and flowing around the switch itself? So I thought, why not put electrical tape around it as a "gasket". Yep, fired right up. Took the tape off, nothing. Put tape back on, fired right up.

I'm still sticking to my original conclusion. The fan is not designed to blow the switch "up" as currently designed.

We can add this to the list of one more "fix" for Dometic furnaces I guess.

Thanks all for hearing me out through this frustrating endeavor.
 

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And the hits just keep coming don’t the advbound.
I wonder if there is a gasket which along the way was left off?

R
 
Good to see you've made some progress, Adventurebound. That's certainly a new one.

What would you think of using a high-temp red RTV silicone (like this Permatex one) to seal those gaps?

Also- I was just doing some searches for the 31389 field repair kit mentioned in the Service Bulletin I linked to above. I see it's available on Amazon and Ebay for around $35 but also that it appears to be in stock at Boat and RV Accessories at half that (with free shipping).
.
 
That could be a good solution but I would be concerned about "fooling" the sail switch into thinking there is sufficient air flow to exhaust the combustion gases and keep the combustion box from failing.
 
@Adventurebound: Great detective work and solution.

I have a 2018 hawk with the Dometic branded version of the same furnace. I have been fortunate and not had any heater issues up to 10,100 feet. Have not camped at a higher altitude, yet.

Model number changed from AFSAD12111 to DF8A12111. I can confirm that the design changed to what you show in your pictures and continued that way through at least my production year. I have the same sail switch mounted in the same orientation as yours, there is no gasket or seal around the switch on my unit. The only difference I can see is the color of one of the components on the circuit board visible in your picture, but I assume that is simply a change in source. What I cannot confirm is if there was a dimensional change to the opening for the sail switch or if there is a flaw in how yours mounts into the blower housing, or if you have simply had bad luck with a couple sail switches.

The A in the model number indicates the low amperage blower motor used to make these units more power efficient. I would assume, carefull there, that the lowered amperage means lower airflow and I guess that these units are operating right at the limit of air flow/heat exchange for a 12,000 BTU furnace. If that is correct, then the smallest variation in airflow could easily cause a fault condition. This would seem to be confirmed by your fix which is repairing a very small air leak at most, as well as the “remove the cover” fix which effectively removes the flow restriction of a couple inches of 5 inch flex duct, again a minimal restriction. I think that Atwood designed as low an amperage a furnace as they could build around an existing burner unit, and it is at the edge of the design envelope of the burner. It probably would have been better to design a smaller, say 8-10k burner, but that would have cost a lot for a product that is probably not a huge part of their product line. Notice from the service manual that the AFS12 model furnace minimum ducting requirement, 24 sq in, is significantly higher than that of the AFSA12 model at 15 sq in, implying significantly greater airflow requirements.

Having lived with this furnace for three years now, I think it is ok and does the job. I also think that a redesign on the part of FWC to allow for a couple ducts to better distribute the heat would be worth exploring, and might allow for the use of a less finicky unit. I also feel that a smaller furnace would probably be a good choice given the small space that is being heated.
 
I still do not understand why a 12k BTU unit was selected for a tiny enclosure since a 2-3k BTU unit would have been a more appropriate size. The system is entirely out of balance and the temperature swing is not comfortable.
 

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