3 way fridge on DC while driving

[plug ugly]

Ive got an older RM2333 in my sixpac. It seems to pull about 9.5 amps on when on DC from battery. With the truck running, it pulls about 2.5 amps. Im using an add on wiring harness that plugged into my stock trailer 7 way. My math says the trucks wiring is only adding 7amps or so.

Does this seem right, or do I have a problem with my wiring somewhere? Shouldnt the truck be able to keep up with the fridge while running?

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

This is an interesting subject.
You will get a lot of feedback
from the site.
I would also like to hear it.
Frank

 

[lmwilco1]

The voltage drop across the wiring harness from the truck battery to the camper is pretty significant which is limiting the power that is supplied to the camper. Many people add a pair io 4 gauge wires to feed power from the truck to the camper to get past this.

Louis

 

[ardvark]

10 amps or less from the truck charge lead is typical. The fridge manual calls for a 10.5 amp draw at 12 VDC. Comments on multiple sites noting less than ideal amp output from charge lead are pretty common. I think most of us run on propane to get around this. When operated on DC, element is constantly hot and is intended to be used only as sustainer with door kept closed.

Ardvark

 

[billharr]

12v DC sustainer at best, and killing your battery at worst. Just run the propane.

 

[Vic Harder]

I get wanting it to run on 12V. Propane blows out when travelling, have to turn it off and on again at gas stations, etc. That said, the use 2 to 3x the power of a two way AC/DC fridge when on 12V.

Best bet to solve your issue is to get a DC-DC charger and put it close to the camper batteries. You alternator will now do a much better job of charging your camper battery (30 - 50A versions of these chargers are available) and your fridge will have lots of power to run on.

You will still need to run on propane when parked though... 10A is a serious amount of draw. The typical battery in a factory FWC install is only 75AH, of which only 50% is usable. Call it 40AH usable. That's 4 hours of having the fridge (and nothing else) on (if it is on full time, which doesn't usually happen).

 

[plug ugly]

Id like to run the fridge on propane all the time, but it blows out, and wont keep things cold unfortunately. I need something to keep it running on these longer trips we are looking to take.. It looks like the dc-dc charger might be my solution. Ill look into that, thanks for the tip.

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

I run mine all the time and made a shroud that keeps the air flow while moving off the flame.
Works pretty well.
Frank

 

[craig333]

You've seen the relighter thread?

 

[fish more]

I too added a screened shround, have had no issues with blowing out. Stick with propane.

 

[plug ugly]

You've seen the relighter thread?

not yet, Ill find it.

 

[ckent323]

We have a Norcold 3-way and it rarely blows out when we are on the road. The 12v cooling mode is barely adequate and pulls a lot of power. We almost always leave it on propane unless connected to shore power. It has a wind screen.

We use a wireless thermostat to monitor the fridge and freezer temps from the truck cab so we know when the pilot needs relighting (not often).

 

[bajaphile]

If flame is blowing out while driving and the cooling is not up to par on your fridge, it sounds like you may need to give the burner a cleaning (or replacement). You should also clean the flue while you're at it.