'72 Cabover Lowering Problems

jrfromafar

Advanced Member
Joined
Jun 20, 2013
Messages
73
Location
Central California
Hello! Just returned from an 8,575 mile trip to Canada & Alaska with my '72 CO. Camper performed fantastic most of the time - never had any problem raising the top - but nearing the end of the trip I started having problems lowering. Now back home I am still having problems with all four pistons syncing & stalling 3/4 of the way down. I have to raise & lower several times before it finally lowers all the way. It has popped out of the front channel a few times - I have had to take the channel off & reinsert it. Have also bled the hydraulic lines by pumping with the valve open. Can I bleed the system in the raised position? Could this be an O ring problem?
 
Called AC today & talked to Bryan - he was as always, very helpful. He suggested that I install flow control valves (Parker PF400B from zoro.com), they would help all four Pistons to sync together. I ordered 4 of them today. Hopefully this solves the problem. He also assured me this is not an O ring problem, but that the front is heavier than the back (or visa versa - I get things mixed up) therefore the flow control valves have been used for over 25 years!
 
Why would they not install flow control valves to begin with? I have heard several complaints about raising and lowering the top and it coming off the tracks which is a cause of concern for me and may hinder my purchase of the Alaskan. It is the main issue I have read about.....
 
The problem with flow control valves is they only help in one direction. I am going to try two sets of flow control valves with manual bypass valves that have to be aligned for up and down, ones extra step, but I should be able to tune it perfect for up and down. I should have my hydraulics done soon, I will post pics
 
I'm wondering how the roof could be crooked enough to come off the tracks without bending the pistons? No saying it can't, juts don't visualize it
 
Happyjax said:
Why would they not install flow control valves to begin with? I have heard several complaints about raising and lowering the top and it coming off the tracks which is a cause of concern for me and may hinder my purchase of the Alaskan. It is the main issue I have read about.....
According to Bryan, the flow controls have been used for 25 years. This unit is 43 years old. I used it extensively on my trip - and probably unwise on my part, had a 60 lb canoe & a 25 lb bicycle strapped to the boat rack. I'd say all in all the Alaskan has a good track record.
 

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Should have also mentioned that Bryan suggested without the flow valves to tie a rope to the top of the back & pull down compensating for the weight in the front when lowering - I did that today & the top came down - easy peesy

- it also gave me pause to reflect on 43 years of marriage - yup - I was married in '72 - same year my camper was built - and how we've both had to improvise through the years to make things work (not yet ever having to resort to a rope - yet:). And no one can deny a marriage has to be tough to last over four decades.... Just like an Alaskan Camper. If I had the money I wouldn't hesitate to buy a new one! (Camper that is - not a new wife:)
 

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instead of the rope trick, i put a small grip bar above the door. it lets me guide the top fairly easy. the handle outside beside the door helps as well. when inside at night, the grip handle works great for hanging a wet towel or a clothes hanger with jacket. as we get older,we find that any spot to hang onto when entering or exiting helps also.

wes
 

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Since we are talking about up/down problems.....
I bought mine used a several years ago. Took it to the factory and had a new mattress/dinette/curtains made and installed to spruce up the interior. They did a very nice job on it all. We provided the upholstery fabric that my wife liked. Turned out well. Oops. Off track here.
Also had a few other little misc. problems addressed. Asked if there were any updates or mods that needed/should be done. NOTE: I had everything recommended done by them.
A year or two later, after very few uses, I had the top go completely cock-eyed on me when being raising. It was night, and got inside with a flashlight and saw the rear passenger side hydrolic cylinder top had released from the roof bracket (had come undone), and had punched through the ceiling paneling and was pushing up on the aluminum skin about to punch through it. I used my on board plastic interlocking cribbing and small aluminum screw "jacks" to stabilize the top in position at several internal positions while the top was all cattywompus, therefore reducing the internal pushing pressure on the roofing sheet metal. I drove slow (45mphish) almost all night to get to the factory to get it squared away. It was Sat am, and Bryan had someone come in to offload the camper from the truck. The next week they resolved the issues, and they put a patch over the ceiling hole, but the bulge in the roof remains.
Bryan said this is kind of a rare happening, but does occur. They fixed all the cylinders at the top so the cylinders wouldn't unscrew from the brackets. It should have been done BEFORE the problem! I WOULD RECCOMMEND THIS FIX TO ALL ALASKAN OWNERS! Fortunately I was only a nights drive away from Bryan's factory and resolution of the problem. YMMV.
I really like Bryan and he is a peach to deal with, but he did dropped the ball on not suggesting preventing this problem with a relatively quick easy KNOWN preventative fix.....
 
Freebird said:
Since we are talking about up/down problems.....
I bought mine used a several years ago. Took it to the factory and had a new mattress/dinette/curtains made and installed to spruce up the interior. They did a very nice job on it all. We provided the upholstery fabric that my wife liked. Turned out well. Oops. Off track here.
Also had a few other little misc. problems addressed. Asked if there were any updates or mods that needed/should be done. NOTE: I had everything recommended done by them.
A year or two later, after very few uses, I had the top go completely cock-eyed on me when being raising. It was night, and got inside with a flashlight and saw the rear passenger side hydrolic cylinder top had released from the roof bracket (had come undone), and had punched through the ceiling paneling and was pushing up on the aluminum skin about to punch through it. I used my on board plastic interlocking cribbing and small aluminum screw "jacks" to stabilize the top in position at several internal positions while the top was all cattywompus, therefore reducing the internal pushing pressure on the roofing sheet metal. I drove slow (45mphish) almost all night to get to the factory to get it squared away. It was Sat am, and Bryan had someone come in to offload the camper from the truck. The next week they resolved the issues, and they put a patch over the ceiling hole, but the bulge in the roof remains.
Bryan said this is kind of a rare happening, but does occur. They fixed all the cylinders at the top so the cylinders wouldn't unscrew from the brackets. It should have been done BEFORE the problem! I WOULD RECCOMMEND THIS FIX TO ALL ALASKAN OWNERS! Fortunately I was only a nights drive away from Bryan's factory and resolution of the problem. YMMV.
I really like Bryan and he is a peach to deal with, but he did dropped the ball on not suggesting preventing this problem with a relatively quick easy KNOWN preventative fix.....
Before I bought my camper this had occurred to one of the pistons - a hole was in the ceiling but hadn't affected the aluminum roof. Then shortly after, lifting the top up, it had slipped off the bracket back into this hole in the roof! I then realized the bolt holding it onto the bracket was completely missing. I got a bolt that fit and have had no other issues. There doesn't seem to me to be any major stress on this bolt - as it just keeps the piston aligned under the bracket - I checked recently to make sure all pistons are tight on the bracket.
 
I guess that explains this:
What's the fix besides tightening the bolt?
I have my hydraulic brackets off because I am re staining the ceiling, I was going to powdercoat the brackets, but maybe I will weld a short section of pipe to the bottom of the bracket first, this will prevent the piston from being able to slide to the side
 

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I should have mentioned that I repaired the hole from the top when the roof was off, still needs a plug and stain.
 
At the very least these cylinder piston attach end's connections need to be monitored for being tight. I'll look and see what the factory did, and take a photo if it will show much of the fix. Honestly, it was several years ago this happened, and I don't remember what the fix was.
I'll update later.
 
caseboy said:
instead of the rope trick, i put a small grip bar above the door. it lets me guide the top fairly easy. the handle outside beside the door helps as well. when inside at night, the grip handle works great for hanging a wet towel or a clothes hanger with jacket. as we get older,we find that any spot to hang onto when entering or exiting helps also.

wes
I'm trying to figure out how you twist the release valve then stand up fast enough to grab ahold of the bar - it seems to me, it's crucial to apply a downward pressure immediately after releasing the valve. By the time it would take me to stand up to grab the bar it would be too late!
 
When my system was original, you could Crack the jack valve open so little that the roof came down very slowly, I would just reach up over the door on the outside and hang from the roof
 
jrfromafar,

i have a handle outside the door on the upper half. it also helps me climb up from the ground.you wouldn't think two steps up to the camper would be so tough, there you go. i release the valve slightly and use the lower handle until i can reach the bar. i'm 5'10" and getting portly , but i seem to reach it ok. i need the bar and handle for raising too. i do get tired after a good pumping session going up. i did have the cap come out of one of my pistons also as it has a small fracture at top of tube. the fix was a simple pin through the tube and cap sideways.

wes
 
Is this piston issue a current possibility or just on older models? I am having a hard time visualizing what you all are talking about but as Alaskan is in the top 2 with FWC I am trying to weigh all pros and cons before making a purchase. I really liked the Alaskan I saw but worry about issues that I might not be able to manage alone and I am on the wrong side of the country for repair issues......
Thanks all :)
 
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