I haven’t even picked up my 2005 Hawk Shell and am already planning upgrades. I know there are lots of thread on the forum about this stuff, hoping to compile it all here. So, please feel free to add links to existing threads where I have missed them, and make comments and suggestions. THANKS!
Fridge and Power for it come first. Fridge will be a Truckfridge 130 dc only. With that decided, the draw on the system will be:
Loads
Fridge
Lights (will be converted to LED)
Fan (potentially 2)
Propex HS200 furnace (to be detailed in another thread)
Water pump
Small electronics (camera, laptop, phone, gps unit)
Estimated total draw of around 60ah/day
The truck – 2500HD with 135 Amp alternator - has a new Optima Yellow top battery. No winch yet, but if I get one there will be a 2nd Yellow top added under the hood
Getting power to the camper:
Blue Sea - thermal breaker (in positive lead) under the hood – not sure of the current draw I should be getting. I think the size is based on what the house/camper batteries will draw when they are fully (80%) drained, (and the gauge of the wire it is protecting). That would seem to depend on the batteries, both AH and type (FLA vs AGM) I’m thinking that 60A is adequate given my expected battery choice below?
4 or 6 ga welding cable (both +v and ground. I don’t like using frame grounds) I understand that if I wanted to self jump, I would need 2 ga. Not sure that will ever be necessary, and I carry jumper cables and tools anyway. Is 4ga overkill?
BlueSea ACR battery separator under the hood. Which one?
Connected via Grainger fork lift charge plugs (see post # 6 in this thread http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/7341-truck-to-camper-electrical/)
Another BlueSea thermal breaker (in positive lead) next to the batteries
Batteries
Not sure about FLA vs AGM. The flooded cell type are way cheaper and can be maintained. But what angles can they sustain when off-roading? Not that will be doing anything crazy, just wondering if that is a consideration?
Also, I understand that in years past, 4WC had the batteries mounted outside of the camper, in front of the truck’s wheel wells. That sounds attractive, in that it leaves more room in the camper, and makes venting a non-issue. Has anyone considered doing this in more recent times?
I’m looking at Crown batteries – 235+ AH – these are the flooded type - LINK According to the spec sheet, the max these can handle for charge current is 60A each. So if I have two in series to get my 12V, that is still just 60A, right?
Wiring the batteries – I understand all the wires joining them together need to be identical in length. I will likely get the ends of the big wires professionally crimped.
Draw side (see this thread, post #3)
Trimetric SC2030 and TM2030
100A Shunt
Main power shut off – I hear 4WC installs a big red cutoff switch???
Solar side
8 ga to MC4 connectors
285W on roof, 24 v panel (Link)
100W+ portable – maybe even use the same as on the roof, so 285W portable?
12v – 120v and reverse...
Magnum MM612a
Iota DLS-30 & IQ-4
USB
Thinking of these from Blue Sea
I look forward to your ideas!
Fridge and Power for it come first. Fridge will be a Truckfridge 130 dc only. With that decided, the draw on the system will be:
Loads
Fridge
Lights (will be converted to LED)
Fan (potentially 2)
Propex HS200 furnace (to be detailed in another thread)
Water pump
Small electronics (camera, laptop, phone, gps unit)
Estimated total draw of around 60ah/day
The truck – 2500HD with 135 Amp alternator - has a new Optima Yellow top battery. No winch yet, but if I get one there will be a 2nd Yellow top added under the hood
Getting power to the camper:
Blue Sea - thermal breaker (in positive lead) under the hood – not sure of the current draw I should be getting. I think the size is based on what the house/camper batteries will draw when they are fully (80%) drained, (and the gauge of the wire it is protecting). That would seem to depend on the batteries, both AH and type (FLA vs AGM) I’m thinking that 60A is adequate given my expected battery choice below?
4 or 6 ga welding cable (both +v and ground. I don’t like using frame grounds) I understand that if I wanted to self jump, I would need 2 ga. Not sure that will ever be necessary, and I carry jumper cables and tools anyway. Is 4ga overkill?
BlueSea ACR battery separator under the hood. Which one?
Connected via Grainger fork lift charge plugs (see post # 6 in this thread http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/7341-truck-to-camper-electrical/)
Another BlueSea thermal breaker (in positive lead) next to the batteries
Batteries
Not sure about FLA vs AGM. The flooded cell type are way cheaper and can be maintained. But what angles can they sustain when off-roading? Not that will be doing anything crazy, just wondering if that is a consideration?
Also, I understand that in years past, 4WC had the batteries mounted outside of the camper, in front of the truck’s wheel wells. That sounds attractive, in that it leaves more room in the camper, and makes venting a non-issue. Has anyone considered doing this in more recent times?
I’m looking at Crown batteries – 235+ AH – these are the flooded type - LINK According to the spec sheet, the max these can handle for charge current is 60A each. So if I have two in series to get my 12V, that is still just 60A, right?
Wiring the batteries – I understand all the wires joining them together need to be identical in length. I will likely get the ends of the big wires professionally crimped.
Draw side (see this thread, post #3)
Trimetric SC2030 and TM2030
100A Shunt
Main power shut off – I hear 4WC installs a big red cutoff switch???
Solar side
8 ga to MC4 connectors
285W on roof, 24 v panel (Link)
100W+ portable – maybe even use the same as on the roof, so 285W portable?
12v – 120v and reverse...
Magnum MM612a
Iota DLS-30 & IQ-4
USB
Thinking of these from Blue Sea
I look forward to your ideas!