BC in Aug 2010

[realbtl]

Intro
I’ve been wanting to make this trip for a number of years and decided in Feb of this year to do it, made ferry reservations, got maps, did route planning, all that stuff you do here in Montana in the middle of winter. What follows is my trip journal. Daily mileage is approximate. The last section has total miles and a rough list of roads taken. There are a couple of things to keep in mind when reading this.
I live 40 min from Glacier Natl. Park in the midst of beautiful mountains, lakes and rivers so when I say a part of the trip is boring (or spectacular for that matter) keep this in mind.
The entries were made in almost real time, usually at the end of the day. They reflect my experiences on this particular trip. They would no doubt be different if situations were different. For example my feelings about the 2 ferries might change if the weather were cold and rainy (though I doubt it).
With that out of the way, sit back and I hope you’ll enjoy yourselves. There are maany more pictures in the gallery I put up.

 

[realbtl]

Friday 8-6, Day 1 ~300 mi
Off at 7:30 AM, set up and writing at 2:45 PM at Wilbur Lake Rec. Campground. WL is about 25 mi S of Golden, 9 mi W and 1500’ above the valley floor. 2 campsites, 1 table, pit toilet, no water or trash. No fee. There are 2 fishermen in elec. boat on lake, left about 4:00 so campground to myself- Yes! Sunny and warm (80’s) but distant thunder. Spitting rain and sun all day. About 4:30 an hellacious thunderstorm blew through then semi-cleared off. No mosquitos at night, lots in AM. Rain overnight, cloudy next AM.

 

[realbtl]

Sat. 8-7 ~300 mi
Up early and on the road fast because of mosquitos (6:30 MDT), breaky along road. Traffic on Hwy 1 from Golden to east of Kamloops sucked, heavy on mostly 2 lanes and wanting to go faster that I. Only 1 a**hole passing on double line honking horn so probably much better than in the states. Lots of pulling over to let folks by. Giant Cedar boardwalk fascinating, like something out of LOTR. By mid-day I had seen pictograph crossing signs for deer, elk, mtn. sheep, mtn. goats, caribou and moose. Also a writteyn sign for badger crossing, guess a pictograph might have been confusing.
Hwy 97 into Cache Creek pretty in an eastern Montana sort of way much less traffic. Stayed at an old, clean motel in CC, good local burger and fries (with skin on). In about 2:30 PDT.

 

[realbtl]

Sun 8-8 ~300 mi
On road at 6:45, very light traffic to Williams Lake, almost none when I turned onto Hwy 20. Road to WL big valleys and lakes/reservoirs. Bought some local tomatoes at a fruit stand, delicious, ours at home not quite in yet. Quite smoky until just past Alexis Creek, fires still smoldering within 1/2 mi of road. Stayed at Puntzi Lake Rec. camp, 4 sites, 1 neighbor in around 6:00. I pulled in about 2:00, set up and took a walk around campground and noticed a “Closed to Camping due to Fires” sign. Decided to play dumb if questioned but nobody came around to throw me out. Mixed clouds and sun, temp in high 70’s, rain in the night.

 

[realbtl]

Mon 8-9 ~140 mi
Misting when I got up, more mosquitoes. It seems like the mosquitoes like the early morning, either that or I’m in bed before they come out in the evening. It doesn’t get dark this far north in Aug until about 10:00. Had planned to camp again but rained most of morning, sometimes very heavy. I’ll camp in the rain if I have to but would rather not so called into Bella Coola and decided to motel it an extra night. I like to camp 2 and motel 1 to get clean and recharge my CPAP batteries. Of course once I made the reservation the rain quit and it was mixed clouds for the rest of the day.
Drive over Heckman Pass and down into Bella Coola was quite spectacular. The dreaded “Hill” wasn’t bad for anyone used to driving in the mountains on dirt roads, 10%-12% in places but the dirt road was good: I’d take any passenger car over it. I can see how it could intimidate flatlanders, especially with big 5th wheel rigs. Mostly 2nd and 3rd gear on the way down.
Bella Coola is in a very pretty spot, big steep mountains all around. The town is about 90% First Nation so pretty laid back. It’s a fishing town so good seafood, especially salmon.

 

[realbtl]

Tue 8-10 0 mi
Every few days I find it nice to not start the truck so that will be today’s assignment. I’m doing housecleaning, computer stuff, shopping and getting ready for ferry tomorrow early. Packing up Elk summer sausage, Gouda cheese, pistachios and buffalo jerky to nibble on the 8.5 hour trip to Bella Bella. Beautiful sunny day today, hope it stays for the trip tomorrow.
Wed 8-11 4 mi
Absolutely fantastic day, almost the whole day sunny. Gave a ride from staging to ferry who had just completed 4 week horseback trip on MacKenzie trail, quite an interesting guy. Scenery varied, high mountains with glaciers at start, low hills on the islands later. Ran through several schools of White ? dolphins for about 20 min. Saw 2 humpback whales, one just spouting the other doing the full sounding routine with tail in the air. Just couldn’t have asked for better weather and it’s supposed to be the same tomorrow.
Had an interesting experience arriving in Bella Bella and learned not to trust Google maps. The big G said there was a place here called Fishermans Lodge. I called them and got a campsite. Luckily they didn’t want a cc deposit as it is in Shearwater, the next island over. The Bella Coola ferry stops there but the Prince Rupert ferry I’m taking tomorrow doesn’t. Checked with the RCMP here about back country dry camping and was warned about a very active wolf pack as well as many grizzlys. She suggested a spot by the ferry terminal (a single wide mobile) and it’s actually probably nicer than an organized camp. They are open until 8:00 PM and open early in AM with bathroom facilities.
There are some kind of large fish, salmon?, jumping about 2’ out of the water as I sit here writing this. They are big.

 

[realbtl]

Thur 8-12 2 mi
Nice night, went to sleep to the sound of fish slapping the water. Next AM as I was having coffee outside a local 1st Nation gent came to join me with his tea before fishing. Weird coincidence, named Bernard but goes by Barney. He confirmed that the fish are salmon, mentioned that humpbacks often use the channel I’m camped on. Later saw one spouting. We chatted for about an hour, heard lots of interesting tales about Native life there including about his grandfather, a renowned canoe builder, who paddled to Seattle in the early 1900’s. This was one of those unexpected treasures. Spent rest of the morning sitting in the sun dozing, waiting for 1:00 PM ferry loading.
This ferry is much bigger and fancier than the previous. My first impression is that I like the Queen better.
Later- I just ran into one of the 3 other folks who are doing the same ferry series as I and she agreed that this one isn’t the same. She called it “more of a cruise ship experience” and I agreed. Plus the scenery, at least so far, is less varied than yesterday.
Later still- Maybe I’m just feeling weary of ferries but I keep coming back to the difference in the experience. It’s like riding in a car versus riding a motorcycle, of traveling through an environment and traveling in an environment. The Queen of Chilliwick was definitely a motorcycle, a bit noisy and crude but much more fun. Plus it had more outdoor seating than the much larger Prince Rupert ferry. I could probably go on and on about this so I’ll just say “For me the smaller ferry is the only way to go”.
3.5 hrs from PR- The tidal surges through these narrow channel must be fierce. The ship is going noticeably slower relative to the land and the water is very turbulent. You can see the movement of the current at the shoreline.

 

[realbtl]

Fri 8-13 4 miles
Got into hotel about midnight last night, very tired from sitting most of the day. This is a planned rest day. Did laundry, restocked fridge as it had to be shut off on ferry so I had let it get pretty empty. I’ll go hit Smiles (thanks for reminding me, I was there in the late 90’s while on a trip to the Queen Charlotte Islands), get to bed early and hit the road early. I want to make about 300 mi and camp around Fraser Lake.
Sat 8-14 340 mi
Talk about weird stuff beside the road, today I saw something I have never in my almost 62 years seen, a guy hitch-hiking with a set of golf clubs, no backpack or suitcase, just a bag of clubs. Must be a serious golf jones.
Left PR about 7:30, arrived here at Co-op Lake about 4:15. Had breakfast along the Skeena River and late lunch in a provincial park near Smithers. Yesterday I got red, white and bleu potato salad from Safeway, red and white potatos, bleu cheese, bacon, etc. It was OK but I think I can do much better when I get back home.
So far I have seen numerous animal crossing signs but no animals. So today I had to slow down to let a procupine waddle across the road but no sign for him. Porcupines need respect too.
Nice drive along the Skeena and other rivers today, hot and no clouds. Co-op Lake is in moose country, at least judging by the “warning moose crossing” signs so maybe I’ll get lucky in the early AM as the lake looks like good moose foraging. I’m getting to like these Rec Area campgrounds. This one has 4 tables and a pit toilet, so far I’m the only one here.
I can tell I’m getting antsy for home, wife and doggies. My speed has increased from 50-55 to 55-60 and today I actually passed somebody. Down the Yellowhead hwy tomorrow to Valemont, probably back home by Wed.

 

[realbtl]

Sun 8-15 320 mi
Well I did get 2 campers about 5:00 last night but they were quiet. On the road early, breakfast by a small lake with loons as a serenade. Also had them at Puntzi earlier in trip. Kind of boring from Fraser lake to about 40 mi east of Prince George, then getting back into the mountains surrounding the vealley. Followed the Fraser River on and off from PG to here in Valemont in a motel I stayed in about 3 years ago on an early May trip when I had my Miata. Hwy 5 from Valemont to Kamloops is one of my favorite, sandwiched between the Rockies on the east and another range to the west. Probably camp next 2 nights on the way back to Montana so I think I’ll use my $3 off coupon on pizza.
Good pizza especially, surprise surprise, the Canadian bacon. Looks like I have dinner for tomorrow.

 

[realbtl]

Mon 8-16 385 mi
I didn’t plan on going so far today but I couldn’t find the spot at 320 mi and then my intermittent charging issue popped up big time. When I first got the camper the ammeter would sometimes go to just barely in the normal range and the battery light would flicker. This would happen for about 30 seconds and then back to normal for anywhere from 30 min to 2 hours, then happen again. Before I took my CA trip last fall I had the alternator replaced, truck being a 1997 and all, and this seemed to fix it. Today it started again and at about 340 mi stayed in weird mode. I didn’t feel comfortable going 4-5 mi back into the mountains with this going on so I kept on going. I had to wait about 45 minutes for the short ferry across Lower Arrow Lake and when I started it to board, everything was back to normal and stayed that way for the remaining 25 mi. Like I said, weird.
With all of this I ended up having to pay $22 to camp at Burton Historical Park but it is worth it as the place is nice and right on the water. I’m looking at a marsh where a river joins the lake, about 100 yards away.
Lots of different scenery today, starting with big mountains, open valleys with alfalfa and horses and ending here in my favorite Canadian spot, the lake chain of the Columbia and its tributaries.
Dinner tonight was leftover pizza with fresh tomato slices. I picked up the toms on day 2 and one of them barely survived.
Depending on truck I’ll either camp or blow for home tomorrow. I have mixed feelings, wanting to be back with my wife and doggies and wanting to see more of this area. I guess whatever happens, happens.

 

[realbtl]

Tue 8-17 385 mi
Nice night, quiet and reasonably private though likely not on a weekend. Decided I was road weary and to head for home, about 350 mi. The drive over through New Denver spectacular as always, then quite pretty through Castlegar to Creston except: all morning I watched the ammeter sink and decided to stop at the Ford dealer here in Creston BC. I decided that another 200 mi was asking for trouble so I’m waiting to find out if it’s voltage regulator or alternator, hope it’s the first as it’s much cheaper.
Home! About 12 hours including ~2 hrs at the Ford dealer in Creston, who was very nice in getting me in quickly and calling around town to locate an alternator. Yes, the Big Green Beast now had a little bit of Canada (or China, whatever) in her, $500 for alternator, labor and, ouch, Canadian taxes. Plus a lifetime guarantee, unfortunately only good in Canada. If I’m lucky it will fail at home and I can zip up and exchange it. No choice really as I was running on mostly battery towards the end. It took about 50 miles for the battery to recharge. I’m very happy to have real gauges rather than idiot lights as I could monitor things and not be stuck somewhere that need 1-2 days for delivery of the alternator.
All in all a great trip, everything I was hoping for. Tired so off to (my own) bed.

 

[realbtl]

8-18 Conclusions, Random Observations and Stats
This was truly a wonderful trip and I highly recommend it to anyone with the time and $. It wasn’t cheap, ferries were $615 though I had to pay extra for being about 5” over 7’ in height. I was barely under the 20’ length limit so no extra there. Gas was consistently $1.05 to $1.09/ltr so a bit over $4/gal, diesel about $1.00/ltr. Food is taxed whether served or store bought. Still it was definitely worth every penny and more. This was a trip that will last a lifetime in memory.
If I had to pick a high point it would be the ferry from Bella Coola to Bella Bella, both the scenery and the dolphins and whales. The weather was perfect. When in the bow area of the ship a light wool shirt over a T and levis was plenty, at the stern out of the wind you could wear shorts. The crew were obviously proud of their vessel and pointed out the sights as we went along.
Some observations in no particular order:
I like windwings/vents/whatever you call them and I’m glad my 97 has them. I drive in the classic American Style, window and vent open and arm on sill. I only ran the air conditioner twice. With the window open I tend to slow down plus smell the ocean, alfalfa, pines, whatever.
I like to get up early and drink coffee as I drive along, then stop after an hour and have breakfast somewhere nice along the road, usually cereal.
I like to keep around 300 mi/day. This puts me into camp early to explore, read or just kick back and enjoy the spot.
Though I’m set up to do so, I rarely cook. I tend towards salamis, cheese, good bread and fruits/veggies. Often I’ll eat lunch in a restaurant if I see someplace promising. I’m getting pretty good at finding them.
The Backroad Mapbook series is invaluable for BC, thanks again to whomever pointed me to them. Think of a Delorme as you would want it to be rather than how it is. They are spendy, about $25 each and it takes about 5 to cover BC, but it is definitely worth it. Most of the campsites I used were not marked on the main road, just after you turned off onto a forest road.
With the exception of the alternator issue, the big green beast ran great, burned 1/2 qt of oil in 2500 mi. Even the alternator came at a good time in the trip as I was in many places where service was a long ways away and it would likely take 2-3 days to ship in a replacement.
Love the ATC Cougar, it’s about 98% to where I want it. I like all of the room, both elbow and storage.
3 way fridge worked great, ran the whole time on about 1/2 tank. In the worst conditions, 90 and direct sun on it all day long got into high 40’s but cooled down nicely overnight. In fact one night I forgot to turn it down from high and it got to 26, freezing my lettace and milk.
The morning of my last day I saw about 20 classic and hot rods from the 40’s through the mid-60’s all pulling camp trailers. I thought it was cool seeing people actually using these types of cars rather than just cruising.

Stats:
2470 driving miles
14.6 mpg
$660.78 in gas, ~$100 in US. Canadian and US dollars are about equivalent.
Roads Taken- Canadian unless noted
Day 1 - US 93, 93, 93/95 to Parson
Day 2 - 95, 1, 97 to Cache Creek
Day 3 - 97, 20 to Puntzi Lake
Day 4 - 20 to Bella Coola
Day 5 - Bella Coola
Day 6 - Ferry to Bella Bella, 9 hrs
Day 7 - Ferry to Prince Rupert
Day 8 - Prince Rupert
Day 9 - 16 to Co-Op Lake (near Burns Lake)
Day 10 - 16, 5 to Valemont
Day 11 - 5, 1, 97, 6 to Burton
day 12 - 6, 3, 21, US 95, US 2 to Kalispell/Bigfork

 

[BenG]

sounds like you had a great trip, you get chance to hit any the hot springs??? we like heading that way in the fall, will hit fairmont hotsprings, radiuan, the head over Rogers pass back down the Kokoonee and hit a couple more hot springs there , and the finaly end up at ainsworth, and back home via hwy 2

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

Thanks so much for posting the trip.We are heading out from Monterey Ca in a week or so.We will head to Port Hardy and catch the ferry to Rupert than head to the Stewart Casier than north. Hope the hit some of the places you did on your southern part.We will stay out 3 weeks or so. Like you we don't do a lot of cooking that requires a lot of time and clean up.I know what you mean about the big ferry.We really enjoyed the old Queen of the North but she went and hit a rock a few hours south of Rupert and sank. Have you used the Alaskan ferry system? Their boats for the most part are small and the crew are so great.Thanks again for the report will post ours when we return.

Frank

 

[craig333]

Nice trip report. Lottsa miles. I'm surprised how pricey the ferries are.

 

[ski3pin]

realblt, enjoyed your report and your photos and like the daily journal approach. We have never been up in this area so this helps in getting a feel of what it's like. Thank you!

 

[dorocks]

I know how you feel about window wings. I love to drive with the window open for the same reasons. I can do that on my Tundra at lower speeds, in spite of the fact that it does not have wings. Air seems to just flow past.