I am a new owner to a 10' non cabover Alaskan, and I am almost certain I have air in my hydraulic system. The pump on the jack is really soft until the last 1/2 inch or so and only then does it raise the rams at all. I have looked for bleeder fittings but I can't find any. Does anyone know of the proper or any way to bleed these systems of air?
Bleeding the hydraulic system
- Thread starter mrmtbaldy
- Start date
LuckyDan
Senior Member
If it won't pump up till the bottom of the stroke the pump system it is probably low on fluid. I'll apologize in advance if your aware, but there are owners manuals posted on here somewhere for various Alaskan vintages.
Try the link below. It talks about re-fluiding and bleeding an Alaskan system.
http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/index.php?/topic/3741/
Hope it helps
Try the link below. It talks about re-fluiding and bleeding an Alaskan system.
http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/index.php?/topic/3741/
Hope it helps
Mike
My hydraulic has this problem. Maybe you can tell me why and what to do about it.
The front rises and will come down only if weight is applied to the top. The back is not moving unless weight is applied to the front. Need two guys to rais or lower it. Any idea';s.
thanks
dkoug
My hydraulic has this problem. Maybe you can tell me why and what to do about it.
The front rises and will come down only if weight is applied to the top. The back is not moving unless weight is applied to the front. Need two guys to rais or lower it. Any idea';s.
thanks
dkoug
I too am "having trouble getting it up" since having reinstalled my older (late 1980's) electric hydraulic pump by Oildyne in my Alaskan. I'll post about this at the http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/index.php?/topic/3741/ related "thread" that LuckyDan directed us to.
draker3838
Member
I realize this this post is fairly old but I had a revelation the other day with my hand pump that really helps with the softness on the downstroke. Figured I would share for others with the same problem.
As mentioned above, first and foremost, the fluid level must be topped off or else air will get sucked into the pump and the top won't be going anywhere. I had a bad O-ring on my pump which caused the thing to leak with every downstroke and I have a feeling Ill be cleaning it up for a while yet! After replacing the O-ring, I lifted the top without sufficient fluid so midway up, I added more fluid and the stroke was still very soft although I was able to get the top up after pumping 50+ more times. After dropping the top, I began pumping and the result was pretty solid, but still a bit soft. I thought through the pumping mechanism and realized that the "cheater bar" hits the floor before the pump maxes out in the downward stroke. If there is air in the "pumping cylinder," It will remain there until the pump is completely maxed out to purge the air then draw in hydraulic oil on the upstroke. What I did to purge the air is put the lever in the position to lower the camper, then, without the cheater bar, give the pump a few strokes making sure to push it all of the way down and pull all of the way up again. Finally, I switched the knob to the raise position and began pumping. Immediately, the full stroke is solid all of the way to the top.
I replaced all of the O-rings and seals on my pump twice and it resulted in no leaking but weak pumping action. I think having air in the cylinder was my problem and may help others with the same problem. We were looking at replacing the pump entirely, but now it works good as new.
I hope this helps other Alaskan owners out there! Cheers!
As mentioned above, first and foremost, the fluid level must be topped off or else air will get sucked into the pump and the top won't be going anywhere. I had a bad O-ring on my pump which caused the thing to leak with every downstroke and I have a feeling Ill be cleaning it up for a while yet! After replacing the O-ring, I lifted the top without sufficient fluid so midway up, I added more fluid and the stroke was still very soft although I was able to get the top up after pumping 50+ more times. After dropping the top, I began pumping and the result was pretty solid, but still a bit soft. I thought through the pumping mechanism and realized that the "cheater bar" hits the floor before the pump maxes out in the downward stroke. If there is air in the "pumping cylinder," It will remain there until the pump is completely maxed out to purge the air then draw in hydraulic oil on the upstroke. What I did to purge the air is put the lever in the position to lower the camper, then, without the cheater bar, give the pump a few strokes making sure to push it all of the way down and pull all of the way up again. Finally, I switched the knob to the raise position and began pumping. Immediately, the full stroke is solid all of the way to the top.
I replaced all of the O-rings and seals on my pump twice and it resulted in no leaking but weak pumping action. I think having air in the cylinder was my problem and may help others with the same problem. We were looking at replacing the pump entirely, but now it works good as new.
I hope this helps other Alaskan owners out there! Cheers!
draker3838
Member
And I just realized this topic is discussed in the "sticky" section. Will repost there too.
Rusty
Senior Member
Many of the older Alaskans do not have the valves at the base of the cylinders used for balancing the pressure...and many have seen alot of use...the hydraulics will have minor issues when they get older...debris or air in the system, failing o-rings etc...nothing that can't be taken care of with a little patience and a few instructions like on the sticky threads. I've been avoiding doing anything major on mine except o-rings...and it's been over 40 years on the same fluid....
we get the questions about the problems...not to be extrapolated to all Alaskans....but good info to be sure
we get the questions about the problems...not to be extrapolated to all Alaskans....but good info to be sure
Still having issues, but scored another whole hydraulic assembly. found a similar pump with a "male" shaft and can use my power drill to raise the Alaskan. The back goes up far more slowly than the front. I actually have to turn the front control valve all the way off to raise the front. I could be as simple as o rings for the rams. My original pump (not motor) had a squished o ring but turns out it was fine though from 1989. I blew it and misdiagnosed before I took the "guts" out. the button switch had burned out, had assumed it was the motor. Though I have opened a can of worms, this is a very high quality system. Alaskan has assured me the system is self bleeding (more or less) An annoyance, that may help in diagnostics, is if I bring the top down quickly, which helps it go down evenly hydraulic fluid rushes out the filler point.
Rusty
Senior Member
did you fill the system with the top up?....that would overfill the system significantly
and the pump was almost empty.. I filled it and started pumping, I wanted to see where those pin holes were to lock the top.
As soon as the holes cleared a stream of oil shot a foot from one and on 2 others fluid poured out.
Now I know my pumps good and why it was out of fluid.
As soon as the holes cleared a stream of oil shot a foot from one and on 2 others fluid poured out.
Now I know my pumps good and why it was out of fluid.
Rusty
Senior Member
holes?....reminds me of a movie 
out of the top of the cylinders?....holes in the copper lines?...holes in the fittings?....o-ring failure?
standard pump to many...but not many have as clean a linoleum base...and original lino
out of the top of the cylinders?....holes in the copper lines?...holes in the fittings?....o-ring failure?
standard pump to many...but not many have as clean a linoleum base...and original lino
Rusty
Senior Member
come on......pictures please....when you get the hydraulics to work
if the lino is that good......there's no telling what the rest looks like....
if the cylinders are leaking that bad...you may need help to lift the top...don't try it yourself....
actually 4 or 5 people make it work nicely...one at each corner and one trusting soul inside to pin it up...then you can do the o-rings one at a time....with a 22 1/2" piece of broomstick
if the lino is that good......there's no telling what the rest looks like....
if the cylinders are leaking that bad...you may need help to lift the top...don't try it yourself....
actually 4 or 5 people make it work nicely...one at each corner and one trusting soul inside to pin it up...then you can do the o-rings one at a time....with a 22 1/2" piece of broomstick
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