Cracks in bed of 2004 toyota tacoma from fleet model

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Hello Travler_fleet
Sorry that you got caught up in this, be happy that someone was watching over you and you caught it early. I could throw my opinion in the hat, but would rather say, learn more and answer the question yourself, I don't think you'll find it to hard.
Take PackRats plus. Get a pad and start listening what you will put in and on the truck , now and in the future. How much each item weighs. FWC has a list somewhere of how much each item over base weighs. Not sure how they send the camper out base weight or asbuilt weight. Go to a dealer look at mfg data tags inside the door. You would also be smart to see how the manufacturer comes up with the number they put on the truck. Don't ask the guy selling he only knows how to sell a truck. Might walk over and ask to speak with a fleet sales manager, see what advice he/she might offer.
We have the ATC Cougar loaded, added hot water plus gear were maxed at 10,000. Truck rides fine and is stock max gvwr=10,000. Our truck scaled at 7,340 gross or 4,320 front axel and 3,020 rear axel. Two passengers, 30 gallons of gasoline and a tailgate leaving 2,660 lbs for cargo. Sorry but have not stopped by the scales loaded yet. ( might be my math and actual weight is scaring me)
Really hope this helps,you'll do ok , lets us know how you do it as it will with out a doubt help others.

No fancy bumper for us :(

Russ.

Door tag info front axel weight rating 4800lbs rear GAWR 6100 lbs then goes on to list the tires it requires to keep these numbers accurate
 
I was not told about center of gravity. I guess I will read about that now. Well, i have more investigating stuff that I didn't know about. 4wc said that their vice president will contact me. So, the difference in all the other tacoma fleet setup is only my model has the over the cab storage. 4wc only did the camper I have. I bought a fleet that was shown in their show room for customer to view. I didn't order the camper and add everything. I didn't even know about the storage nor ever seen it on the road on another camper. That's the difference... just like the uhaul example, uhaul did the right thing because it could have cause harm.
 
Just FWIW, years ago I had a brand new truck and I went out and bought a new fibreglass slide in "shell" from a local manufacturer. I soon noticed that the truck box rails were being crushed by the slide in unit. I took it back and the mfr had the new truck repaired and sanded down the slide in unit to make more clearance. Drove it again, right away the truck was damaged again. The fibreglass unit was simply too wide for a standard pick up truck.Took it back again. Mfr repaired truck again. Then I told them I wanted to return the slide because it wasn't working as I had been told. They agreed after some discussions but weren't very pleasant about it. So these things do sometimes happen. In my case the mfr both repaired the vehicle (twice) and bought back their unit but at a used discount. I lost money and time and my truck was no longer "new".
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You posted that your truck has a payload of 1395-1585 lbs. No, I think you mean that model truck was available with that range of payloads. The truck you own has one specific payload.This is important. It's common for people (and sales staff) to use the higher number but how the truck is made, what options it has etc will effect the final specific payload number for a vehicle.

Same situation happens with campers, but in reverse. The Fleet model might have a base weight of 975lbs but you have posted your Fleet shipping weigh was 1395lbs. The difference is how it was built and options. Also this would be the "dry" weight as you said, without water, stuff, people etc.

If you keep your truck you could weigh it to find your payload for the next loaded camper.

As others have said, weigh your loaded camper (may not be possible right now) or weigh and add up all the stuff you would normally take including water, people and animals. - Yes some people actually do this. - I don't think it would be hard to come to a number of at least 2100lbs. I suggest *this* is the minimum payload number you should be using if you were to consider a replacement vehicle. *ON EDIT whatever the number you calculate. Also, as mentioned, have to be aware of the how much of that weight the rear axle can take to keep within it's rating.*

You won't find a Toyota dual cab 4x4 with this number. That's why some people buy "bigger" trucks even if they would really, really like a Toyota.

Ideally camper centre of gravity should be forward (towards cab) of the centre of the rear axle. That's why for some campers, some people buy a bigger long box even if they would they really like a shorter box.

Good luck with it !
 
Ive run into this issue in the past. Running close to or over a vehicles rated payload raises several issues. Many have thought they would just increase the springs and they were good, but vehicle weight ratings arent just about springs. Many also thought springs were the only difference between 1/2 T and 3/4 T trucks, which again isnt correct, and bears on this topic. The rating also has to do with the axles and bearings, brakes, shocks, wheel stud diameters and number of studs in the true old school 3/4 Tons, and driveline components. 3/4 T trucks are heavier built in many ways, and sometimes thats the only practical way to do the required work. For extended use with heavy loads, I think one will also find that the full floating rear axle type holds up better and has a higher rated capacity. Such trucks may be be available in whats called a 1 Ton today, based on many of the 3/4 T Ive seen and owned. Hopefully someone still makes 3/4 T trucks with true heavy duty axles.

I damaged a couple trucks beds with a steel framed utility shell. The trucks were rated fine, but the sheet metal of the beds werent up to the twisting motion of offroad trail use with the heavy utility shell and cracked down the outsides about even with the rear edge of the front of the bed. I ended up having a 3/16 x 2 1/2" angle steel frame made for the top edge of the bed, with angled braces in the inside corners to stop the twisting. The utility shell rode on top of the reinforcement frame and was bolted down through the whole thing and the bed top. This was the only way I came up with to save the sheet metal from being trashed. A friend had made one for someone else with the same problem.
 
The camper I have no body else has. They added storage under the cab area so 4 inches higher and 100 lbs heavier. Plus the camper sits higher off the top so the gap between the camper and truck cab is wider than everyone else. I wasn’t told that I was the only person with this camper. I wouldn’t want to test this but I would want the choice to want to. They are going to come out and look at it at my house Thursday or Friday, I still don’t have a vehicle to drive. Now what happens? Any ideas what I should do? Vice President called me today and he gets what I am saying now. He is going to come out and look at camper on my truck Thursday or Friday. What do you guys think now.
 
If you dont have a vehicle to drive at all over this, then the first thing to do is get the thing off your truck. Whatever comes next regarding the truck repair and camper status, you at least arent stuck without transportation.

However great the camper may be, if its damaging your truck and isnt appropriate to use on it, then the quicker you get it off the better off you will be.
 
Traveler_fleet said:
The camper I have no body else has. They added storage under the cab area so 4 inches higher and 100 lbs heavier. Plus the camper sits higher off the top so the gap between the camper and truck cab is wider than everyone else. I wasn’t told that I was the only person with this camper. I wouldn’t want to test this but I would want the choice to want to. They are going to come out and look at it at my house Thursday or Friday, I still don’t have a vehicle to drive. Now what happens? Any ideas what I should do? Vice President called me today and he gets what I am saying now. He is going to come out and look at camper on my truck Thursday or Friday. What do you guys think now.
Please check your WTW mail.
 
Now I am thinking about the left back wheel had fluid and making a noise. I took truck and got it fixed. Months later the same thing happens to the same left wheel and cost me around 1100 dollars the second time to fix. Even if I take the camper off I don’t have any place to put it and the truck still is to dangerous to drive because the truck bed can crack off. I live in a condo. I am asking for a car rental that 4wc pays for until this gets resovled. My condo is getting termite treatment next week so a tent is going over the building and animals, food etc... myself needs to be out for two 3 or 4 days. You would think that an engineer would crunch the numbers and state if adding storage, weight, height would cause damage. Someone could have gotten hurt/killed.
 
Good that they are coming out to inspect. That shows good will on their part.

If you can wait, I suggest you leave the camper on your truck so that they (FWC) see it the way it was installed, how it it was attached and how it looks on the truck. The same way it was inspected by Toyota Service and the autobody shops. Everybody then sees the same thing, in fairness to FWC.

Malamute and I told our stories about our own slide in units problems. We resolved the problem in different ways. He kept his slide in and modified his truck, I kept my truck and returned my slide in. Then both of us moved on. I suggest you decide what you want and then propose to FWC a reasonable solution to fix this issue so that you can move on also.

I think it's important to note that you are a repeat customer. You must have been happy enough with your first FWC to go and buy a second, brand new one. And you went directly to the factory for install. Don't know if you bought it from FWC or a dealer, that might make a difference.

Be reasonable, be respectful. Be prepared to accept some responsibility. Fault is less important than resolving then problem.
 
Traveler_fleet said:
Now I am thinking about the left back wheel had fluid and making a noise. I took truck and got it fixed. Months later the same thing happens to the same left wheel and cost me around 1100 dollars the second time to fix. Even if I take the camper off I don’t have any place to put it and the truck still is to dangerous to drive because the truck bed can crack off. I live in a condo. I am asking for a car rental that 4wc pays for until this gets resovled. My condo is getting termite treatment next week so a tent is going over the building and animals, food etc... myself needs to be out for two 3 or 4 days. You would think that an engineer would crunch the numbers and state if adding storage, weight, height would cause damage. Someone could have gotten hurt/killed.

Again, check your private mail.

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