Door Refurb on FWC Hawk

OregonOzzy

Advanced Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2015
Messages
64
Location
Beaverton, OR
Before our long trip of this summer (4 California NP’s – Trip Report coming soon!) decided to refurbish the door on our 2002 FWC Hawk that was looking a bit raggedy. Also wanted to see what the PO had hidden under the stainless plate on the outside of the door. I searched a few times but did not find pictures of anyone’s similar refurb process and only mentions of the glass being loose and fixes, so posting some pics here and my process to help others that might want to do this same fix. The glass in the door had some external sealant applied by the PO but the telltale streaks of dirt showed the need for a better job.
Here is how the door looked before with the rusty acorn nuts in need of replacement and a coat of paint.

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Removed the door from the hinges, leaving the hinges attached to the frame in the camper. Three screws per hinge and the door came off.

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Next removed these screws all around the frame of the door to remove the aluminum framing and then tapped it off the door.

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This seal profile I could not find anywhere. So, had to re-use the seals, if someone has found a source please share as I would like to replace it, just cleaned the current one and put it back on.
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Out came the lock and the factory installed deadbolt as well, gave both a good cleaning and spray with WD40.

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Next was the glass window frame. Remove all the screws around the frame and lift it off. Better to do this on a flat surface with some padding underneath.
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These are the culprits. The two small nubs are supposed to hold the glass in place. Two at top and two at the bottom. The intact ones are the top ones. You can also see the silvery sealant that the PO had globbed on to keep the glass sealed.
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And here are the same bottom ones that have been sheared off over the years.


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Sorry, I don’t have a picture, but I basically cut a block of wood to fit in between the bottom of the plastic frame and where the nubs would have been, so the glass rests on this block, instead of two <1/8th” dia plastic nubs.
Cleaned up all the dirt with a vac and plastic bristle brush and directed attention to this mess that the stainless sheet was hiding.


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Wonder what story goes with that. Anyway the fix for that was the expanding foam insulation in a can.


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Even found the bumper stopper replacements in the ACE hardware drawers. Close enough!
Painted the door with Rustoleum Oil Based Gloss White after cleaning it with brush, vac and wipe down with alcohol wipe. Replaced the locks securing with caulk and window glazing.


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Used caulk around the entire window frame in the channel that is in the plastic frame and screwed the two pieces back together really well. The fix for the cracks was J-BWeld before painting (2 coats). The stainless panel went back with new stainless acorn nuts, bolts and washers.


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Here is the door back on, looking much cleaner. The plate has received 4 more NP stickers since this refurb and we have driven over 2500miles and everything still is holding up quite well. Hope this helps out someone else.

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OregonOzzy--

Thanks for documenting the process. Looks great!

The door seal is available from Dexter Door if your door is a Philips (as I believe it is). See this 'Rubber on door seal' thread for details.

It's also interesting to see you have a deadbolt lock on yours. My 2001 didn't have one so I assume that's the timeframe when FWC decided to add the deadbolt. I replaced my door's latch assembly for one with the keyed deadbolt (and I wanted the black color). You don't need that but I thought I'd include it here for anyone else interested in the topic of door refurbishment.
 
Looks good! Did the paint match the original shade of white? I'm curious because I scratched up a small area (about 1/2 a square foot) on the side of my camper and want to touch it up.
 
Old Crow: How did I miss your excellent write up (my poor search skills :(). Thanks for the link to Dexter Door for the bulb seal. Indeed the door is Philips since my slider says so. I had to replace the small straight part (handle) when that broke off. Replacement was found at a local RV shop. I have the original invoice from the 1st owner from 6-25-2002 and the deadbolt was a $45.00 option added.

dharte: To me the paint is a very close match. I also used this on the Al siding in the front where some had rubbed off. In fact I used this to paint the underside of the overhang as well after the vinyl started looking a bit tattered.
 
Looks good. I need to paint my door and replace the hardware, it is about the only thing showing it's age on the 2002 Hawk, yellowed with some rust streaking from the screw heads.
 

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