((Eagle/Fleet)) - Shell Amateur Build

[RC Pilot Jim]

Added the "Famous covered Bucket" as our new sink waste water holding tank.
Picture under the "Install a sink section"

 

[RC Pilot Jim]

.......even my wife says all the "tweaks" are a little bit too much...... "When are you going to get the camper done?"......My reply, ...."I'm almost done (heh,heh) just a few more tweaks"

My latest is trying to find a new place to store the portable 27" x 27" solar panel. In a Tacoma X-cab = difficult. We have been carrying it in the camper on the floor nestled between the front of the Engle and folded down couch panel. Sometimes we take it and don't need it...Then it's in the way for the rest of that trip......Looking for a place to store it so its handy but out of the way. Think we found a (secure) place......

...yup .... backseat...secured with seat belts still have room for hanging clothes and duffel bags in front.

We have a solar plug on the roof so I'm still researching putting "a panel" up there. Downside is winter when sun is low because you can't angle it and when we park in the shade - because 70% of efficiency is lost. We still might need a small portable to augment the main one which doesn't solve the problem....Research continues.

 

[RC Pilot Jim]

Field report
Most of our camping is off-the-grid at state parks or the desert. About 25% is exploring the country, on asphalt. We stay in KOA's when available, because they take last minute credit-card reservations (like a Motel 6) and are easy to get into on weekends when the western state parks are full (6 month reservation system). They have Wi-Fi, washer-dryers, small convenient store and water-electric sites. We plug in our 15 amp x-tension cord (shell "shore-power") which through our "Battery Doctor" charger/maintainer, tops off our battery while powering the Engle refer.

30 amp utility boxes at public campsites.
Some of the newer RV campsites (Thousand Trails for one) don't offer a "straight - blade" 20 amp service. You will need a small adapter so your straight blade "shore power" cable can plug into a 30 amp receptacle. This little adapter doesn't take up any room and only costs $3.97 -
see link: http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/15-amp-rv-female-to-30-amp-male-adapter/69605

The Engle refer has a 110 volt mode, however you have to unplug the 12 volt cable and plug in the 110 volt cable to switch modes. It is easier to stay in one mode...In our case 12 volt, and the little 1.25 amp charger maintainer is below the maximum 2 amps Engle recommends for trickle charger voltage....when refer is operating.

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

My latest is trying to find a new place to store the portable 27" x 27" solar panel. In a Tacoma X-cab = difficult. We have been carrying it in the camper on the floor nestled between the front of the Engle and folded down couch panel. Sometimes we take it and don't need it...Then it's in the way for the rest of that trip......Looking for a place to store it so its handy but out of the way. Think we found a (secure) place......

Have you thought about just storing it on the roof? It would be out of the way.
Having a permanent panel on the roof works well. Even in winter you will still have sun hitting it.
Just some thoughts.
Frank

 

[idahoron]

Jim I read that you leave your camper on full time. I am in the same boat, I have left mine on since September of 2013. I have two trucks, an 88 toyota xtra cab and my 2005 Tundra. So I do most of my running around in my little truck. My reasoning for leaving the camper on full time is whenever I get in that truck there is a good chance I will use the camper.
Have you seen any downfalls to leaving it on full time? Did you change your tie downs? I read through your build and you did a fantastic job.

 

[RC Pilot Jim]

Yes Frank I have considered doing just that. Though I wonder if the 60 watt is large enough when I camp in Nov-Feb off-the-grid... Because I can't angle the panel. Everyone recommends installing a 100 watt panel.

I have decided to test the efficiency of the 60 watt in November when I go to the hot springs by laying it flat on the ground (leveled) and see how efficient it is over a couple of days...then make the decision.

 

[RC Pilot Jim]

Thanks Ron. I tried to make the post of my "build" as comprehensive and use-able as possible for the average builder.

We were looking for a '05-'06 4WD Tundra. but gave up after 10 months of looking in 4 states - never finding one.

2013 Tacoma does a great job with its 4 liter 235 hp V-6 and 3:73 rear gear. Plenty of power to pass on 2 lane roads overloaded by 700 pounds. Milege averages 15.5 - 50/50 driving to 16.5 freeway, driving conservatively. Best is Truckee to Olancha in April with no a/c - 18.5 (with camping gear and 2 people). The 2nd gen Tacoma handles the xtra 1,000 pounds + camping weight effortlessly. Empty "it" doesn't even know is is there. Did you know this "mini-truck" has the same footprint as a 1971 Ford F 150?

The '99 Tacoma was getting 12-14 mpg because the engine was working very hard. Truck wasn't as much fun to drive, so I didn't drive it much. By comparison the 2013 model is almost like driving a sports car because of the low center of gravity of the shell.

The downside of the 2nd gen Tacoma is the composite bed. A friend advised checking out a welding shop to have mounts fabricated. Since I was going to buy a new truck if I wasn't buying a Tundra I was concerned about voiding the warranty if I welded plate onto the frame. It turns out welding is ok. DRILLING holes in the frame voids the warranty though. Four quarter inch "L" brakets welded on. Used 4 ea - 3/8" "elevator" bolts and Lock Nuts. Drilled the composite bed to 9/16" to allow for frame flex as the frame is not boxed and will flex a little. So far no problem. I check the nuts monthly and everything is tight after 18 months of use.

Lastly - every day use. Retired I drive it about 2-3 days a week. Hauling the model airplanes to the flying field, my bike to the harbor to safely ride, or Running errands. I love driving it. Easy to park at the grocery store because Eagle doesn't extend past the fenders...Nothing for walkers to hook their clothes on.

Did I miss anything?

 

[idahoron]

Great write up. I would like to find a Tacoma some day to replace the xtracab but I am not looking super hard. Mine only has 300,000 miles so it has a couple hundred thousand left in it

 

[RC Pilot Jim]

It's a Toyota and they last a v-e-r-y long time. Our daughter had a '81 Corolla that finally died (actually it was still running - wouldn't pass smog test-still running in mexico) at 482,000 miles in 2002. Never had the head off.

 

[idahoron]

 

[RC Pilot Jim]

Last week we took the grand kids to Campland on Mission Bay in San Diego. Fun and a "ZOO". Now I remember reason I stopped camping in summertime-hordes of UN-supervised kids. Camp sites are 3 inches apart and cost $100 per day.

Field Report
We camped 5 nights running the Engle refer, fan, lights and charging the IPAD on the single battery - engine off. The 1.25 amp " Battery Doc" (shell-shore power) easily kept the battery between 12.4 volts and full..

 

[RC Pilot Jim]

WOW...... 10,000 VIEWS !!

I thank you all and am awed by you interest.

 

[RC Pilot Jim]

I'm exploring Oregon this month so will have updates on what is working in the field. One unexpected rain storm has me cooking full time in the camper as it is easier!......than outside!!!

The best way to get a camping system worked out is to camp for a couple of weeks straight.

 

[RC Pilot Jim]

3 – week Oregon Trip 2014

Distance covered 2,408 miles. Cities visited: Medford. Bend (now I know reason MarkBC lives there), Sisters, Mt Washington Nat Forest, Eugene then the coast from Florence to Brookings and on into Calif down 101. Spent 9 nights camping, 6 with friends, 2 motels.

Field Report starts on the coast 8 miles south Florence
Camped at Siltcoos National Forrest…..Awoke to rain. Decided to stay a second day because didn’t want to lower the roof on wet canvass liner. Cooked inside all day….first time I have cooked in the rain.

Dry Camping more than one day had me worrying about the battery , because if the voltage drops below 12 volts the truck separator will prevent connecting to the truck alternator and I will need to run “shell-shore power” to charge battery sufficiently to get the separator to re-connect.

I chose to leave the portable solar panel at home because I did not plan on being off 110 volts or the truck alternator more than 17 hours per day.

Now I am camping for two days… (Best laid plans)
Recorded (conditions) Temp cool – low 70’s during day.Mid 50’s at night. Slept with top sheet, blanket and sleeping bag as a comforter.
Day 2
Engine off overnight - 17 hours – low reading 12.3 volts. Run engine one hour (6: am) = Voltage 12.9
Engine off 12 hours – low reading 12.2 volts. Run engine one hour (6m) = Voltage 12.9
Day 3 morning
Engine off 13 hours – low reading 12.1 volts. Run engine one hour (6am) = voltage 12.9

So engine alternator does charge the battery …..just won’t top it off

If I had a solar panel mounted on the roof, even on a gray day, panel would have maintained 12.9 volts during light hours. I proved my theory in April while attending the FWC factory rally as we camped in a cloud for 3 days – rainy - drizzly weather. Deployed panel maintained voltage 12.9 volts during day.


My friend in Roseburg is an electrician and gave me a "6 year olds" explanation of how the separator works. “Think of charging volts as “water” flowing through a hose. Resistance is a clamp on the hose. The “Separator” joins both batteries when the engine is started – running the fridge from the alternator and flowing volts (water) to the battery(s). As the camper battery reaches full the “separator” through its programming increases the “resistance” (clamping pressure) and reduces the flow of volts (water) to battery.

“Separator” monitors the battery continuing to increase/or decrease the flow (voltage) as required. .

Problem with the “separator” is when battery voltage drops below 12 volts. Than the “separator” disconnects the camper battery to PROTECT the starting battery. Disconnecting means the Fridge is now drawing current from the camper battery. (Compressor fridge 2.5 to 4 amps per hour. 3-way Fridge 11.8 amps per hour)

That is reason camper (owner) has to plug the battery into “IOTA” 110 volt shore power, or solar panel, or a stand-a-lone battery charger.

That is also the reason I have a “ LARGE RED DIGITAL VOLTMETER”…to monitor when I need to run the truck motor if I don’t have my portable solar panel with me. And no 110 volt electricity to run my “shell-shore power”.

 

[DrJ]

Great report on battery use. Very helpful to many of us.
I've been collecting some data on battery use now that I've got my battery issues worked out and installed a trimetric 2030.
Once my data is complete, I'll post my results and hopefully it will be helpful to others.
I have noted that it took several minutes - maybe 15 - for the truck once running to send any power whatsoever to my batteries. Then it would charge at a max rate of 27 amps per hour. Voltage started at 13.0.
The amps then go down as the voltage increased. However, I do not believe it went above 13.5.
I ran the truck for about 2 hours just idling on 2 different days with same results.
I have factory installed connector to my Hawk from my truck batteries with factory battery isolator.

 

[billharr]

Using the logic and results you got, why not go back to the old style solenoid? I have both on my Tundra / Hawk, because the 2002 I had used the solenoid that is mounted under the hood. The new style separator is in the Hawk so I am using both.

Bill

 

[RC Pilot Jim]

Bill could you give us a "6 year olds" explanation of how a solenoid works ( think we had one of these on our old 1978 Chev pickup) compared to the new FWC " Seperators " ?
Thanks.

 

[billharr]

Bill could you give us a "6 year olds" explanation of how a solenoid works ( think we had one of these on our old 1978 Chev pickup) compared to the new FWC " Seperators " ?
Thanks.

Solenoid BIG switch that is turned on and off by a small coil. apply small amount of power to the coil and it closes the switch. remove power and the switch opens. Pretty fool proof, hook a hot wire that only hot when your truck is running.

The separator has a solenoid but adds a circuit to monitor the batteries and voltage.

The BATTERY SEPARATOR monitors the battery system to determine if the batteries are being
charged. When the engine or auxiliary batteries (if 1315-200 is used), or the engine batteries (if
1314-200 is used) reach 13.2 volts*, indicating charging is taking place, the BATTERY
SEPARATOR will engage, joining the two battery banks. If the drain on the charging system by the
auxiliary or main battery bank reduces the system voltage below 12.8 volts*, the BATTERY
SEPARATOR will disconnect the battery banks from each other, thus protecting the respective
battery banks from excessive drain.
A delay function has been incorporated in the control circuit to prevent the BATTERY
SEPARATOR from reacting to momentary voltage fluctuations and chattering.

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

The solenoid shown is like the one used on older model Fords also.
You can actually start the car with a short piece of wire and a screwdriver.
I used to do this to my moms 56 Ford Victoria when she wasn't home and wouldn't let me have the car.
She could never figure out how I drove her car without a key.
Thanks Bill.
Frank

 

[Espresso]

If I recall correctly, the main reason for the solenoid is to allow little wires to do the job of big wires. You wouldn't want to run the giant wires to the ignition switch in your truck. The solenoid allows smaller wires to control the connection between the larger wires. Or am I confusing this with a relay?