((Eagle/Fleet)) - Shell Amateur Build

So the "Separator" adds a monitoring feature to the old "solenoid" that increases and decreases voltage to the battery based on how full it is.

Gauges , fuse block

When I was researching the gauges to add i consulted with my brother the engineer as to what gauges our father had on his 42 foot ocean going sailboat. He just used a voltmeter. If I recall Dad had a starting battery. 3 or 4 "house" batteries. And a large RED master on/off switch to manually separate or join the batteries for emergency conditions.. He also had a fuse panel.

For my simple system I have in-line fuses on the solar panel and Engle fridge dedicated 10 gauge wire. Lights, fan and 12 volt plugs are not fused and connect directly to the master silver pull/push switch as wired by the factory. Fridge wire connects to the hot side of push/ pull switch and is hot all the time.

Other than occasionally hooking up a Whatt meter to monitor the fridge amp draw, I never considered adding a gauge to do this full time. Would someone explain the benefits of having one?

And should I add a fuse block fo the fan, lights, and 12 volt plugs since factory didn't see the need to do so?
Thanks.
 
RC Pilot Jim said:
So the "Separator" adds a monitoring feature to the old "solenoid" that increases and decreases voltage to the battery based on how full it is.

No only on or off based on the voltage of the truck battery. You can get a model that will work both ways if you need to jump start the truck.



Other than occasionally hooking up a Whatt meter to monitor the fridge amp draw, I never considered adding a gauge to do this full time. Would someone explain the benefits of having one?
Just more information, a volt meter will tell you where the battery is. It will not let you know the draw or use and what has happened.

And should I add a fuse block fo the fan, lights, and 12 volt plugs since factory didn't see the need to do so?
Thanks.
?? You do not have a fuse on the fan, lights and 12 volt plugs?? Add as soon as you can, you do not want to find out what is flammable in you camper.
 
Ok Bill,
Fan draws 3 amps. Don 't know what LED' cabin lights draw, 12volt plugs depend on what I plug into them I suppose. I have felt the wires when they are operating and all feel cool or ambient temp to the touch.

Can you suggest fuse size for fantastic fan and lights, and 12 volt plugs??

Should I just buy a fuse panel at local auto parts store?
Thanks.
 
Don't be cheap go Blue Sea for the fuse box. As far as the fuse size, see what the unit draws then size fuse and wire as required. Don't forget the fuse protects the electrical appliance and the wiring. If you do not have a fuse and a wire shorts you are going to get sparks until the wire burns up (along with your camper) or the battery runs out of juice.


This is what I have. Now I have to go see what fuse my fan is on as it is not listed.

1. Green - Flood Lts - 15 amp
2. Yellow - Ceiling Lts - 10 amp
3. Red - Porch Lts - 10 amp
4. Orange - 12v Outlet Pass side
5. Red - Furnace - 7.5 amp
6. Purple - Thmst/Detector - 10 amp
7. Red - Water Pump - 20 amp
8. Refrigerator - 15 amp
9. Monitor - 7.5 amp
10. 12v Outlet Driver side
11. ___________________________
12. ___________________________
 
Yes, its not fun when you have electrical smoke roiling out from under your dash because the single fuse wasn't quite enough. That was my Jeep when I first got it running. Now it has 21 fuses (maybe a couple more I forgot).
 
I emailed Brenda and she said :

Ceiling lights and Fan Fan 10 amps,
12 volt plugs 15 amp

I have a 12volt tire compressor with a 20 amp requirement. When I plugged it in to the truck accessory plug it popped the fuse.
Replaced the fuse then tried the camper 12volt plugs . Now I know the reason the pump worked......NOT fused. Wonder the reason it wasn't 't ??
 
takesiteasy said:
Check the wire size before putting a (larger) fuse in there...
Auto-Wiring-Gauge-Table.gif
 
A 6 fuse box would cover what you have. If you don't plan on adding stuff that would do. If you might think of more things, go with the 12 fuse box. You are only talking $15.00 more to move up.
 
Jim are you sure you do not have a fuse box? FWC must have fused the lights if nothing else.

I will get a diagram made for you later today.
 
Thanks Bill.
Yesterday I asked FWC if they fused the lights and fan on shells nd haven't heard back. I don't think so though as my bat compartment is wide open and I see no fuse block.

Oh and I added a paragraph to my last reply.....

Just a thought.....if they don't fuse those circuits on shells....shouldn't FWC notify the buyer of possible fire danger?
 
Thanks Bill.


Craig I have the SHELL model. Didn't!come with power converter......Or a fuse block. Devices wired to the master pull/push switch.
 
I understand that. I can't understand FWC not putting in a simple fuse box. Thats wrong and I'm surprised they'd do that. Not what I'd expect from FWC.
 
craig333 said:
Well stuff happens. Mine were when it was fairly new also.


Fortunately I haven't backed into a fire hydrant yet.

In any case we need to warn the shell owners to put their devices on fuses....either in-line or a fuse block.
I will do that soon.
 
Actually I only have TWO Circuits as Lights, fan, and 12 volt outlets are on the same circuit.

I bought the Trimetric monitor and will have it installed next week.
 
Bill,
Circuit breaker is a 30 amp.

My local electronics shop is going to install the Trimetric 2030 tomorrow. I will post pictures when it is done.

They suggested an in-line 10 amp fuse for my 3 device circuit (fan, LED lights, 12 volt outlets) as I don't need a fuse block for two circuits.

I also ordered the Renology 100 watt flex panel which I will install myself so will have the whole system up and running for the rally in San Clemente end of October 2014. Everyone can eyeball it when we do the walk-around Saturday.
 

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