see post #75 above... added a large capacitor across the power leads. Squeaking gone.
Polarized or non polarized and the values of the cap would be good info if possible.ThanksVic Harder said:oh man, I just looked in my spare parts bin and put in the biggest one I could fit. Electrolytic type for sure. I could get pics?
Vic
To make sure I understand the test:pvstoy said:run a positive and negative jumper to the battery from the fan (use fuse for positive) as a test to have just the lights on the ceiling circuit. Then see if the lights are reacting to the frequency of the PWM controller. I have seen low grade (low quality) led lights do weird things with other stuff being used.
Yep, those devices are in there for sure. The ground wire from the ceiling (one of the places they HAD to run a wire to create a ground... otherwise the frame is usually the stock grounding source) was redone by me when I gutted the camper, so I know that's good. I ran a fused wire to the ceiling wires as well, so the source power is good. Not sure of what happens to that after it makes it up into the ceiling.CoreyTrevor said:The dimmer I used for my LEDs also did the PWM on the ground side.
My 2012 Eagle had a bunch of my arch nemesis little blue Scotchlok wire tap/ wire destroyer clip things throughout the wiring in the walls. I didn't get into the ceiling, but I'm sure they are in there too. I've seen so many of those things lose connection and/or cut the wire in half or both, I can't believe they still sell them.
I don't know if you have those horrid things in your camper, but I, like you, was wondering if a weak connection on the positive side somewhere in the ceiling could be your problem.