Flawk project: Turning a fleet into a hawk

lostwon

Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2017
Messages
24
So last weekend I acquired a 1988 Fleet that needed a lot of TLC. My wife and I decided fairly recently that we wanted a FWC and a couple weeks later this gem popped up for sale so we jumped. Probably paid too much for it knowing how much it needed but didn't want to wait around forever and ski season is already here and we need a place for our almost 2 year old to take a nap while one of us makes some turns. Now that I've torn into it, I figure I've paid $900 for the aluminum frame and windows as that's probably all I intend to keep original.

We spared no time tearing into it. Plans are to make a new floor pack that fits the Tundra Crewmax. This will make for about 5.5" more headroom and about a foot wider footprint before and cabinetry, etc. Also plan on re-siding using 0.025" aluminum. Interior panels will be fabric covered plywood and loncoin flooring.

I plan on a running a fairly bare-bones electrical system with a few LED lights and a new Fan-Tastic fan. Heating will be done by a Wave-6 to make things simple and not draw any of the electrical power. My thoughts are to install a flush mount sink with a 7 gallon aqua-tainer for water storage as it's cheap and replaceable if for some reason it gets nasty. Still haven't decided if I want an electric water pump or just put a foot pump in.

The purchase price included a really awesome old school Singer sewing machine as well as new popup material and clear window material. After a lot of himming and hawing we decided that sewing up our own popup wasn't time conducive. In the end we found the best option for us was to have ATC fabricate the new popup for us. This would guarantee us a quality, dry canvas and ATC was about $1,100 less than FWC. For reference, ATC is charging $1,050 for the canvas plus $495 for the arctic pack. FWC wants $2,200-2,400 and the camper is required to be at their facility.

Another idea is to make a pullout bed like the newer models. I'm thinking this will take a bit of reinforcing for this older model's frame. One question I have is: how are the pullout beds constructed? Are they simply a plywood pullout on top of the cabover that slides out? I've trying looking to find picture of how FWC constructs the pullout bed with no luck. I'd love some pics of the bed without cushions both tucked in and pulled out if someone can help!

The other question I have is the front bulb seal between the roof and the cabover that is used on the newer models. Does someone have a source for this seal?



IMG_3353.JPGIMG_3356.JPGIMG_3391.JPGIMG_3361.JPGIMG_3391.JPGIMG_3361.JPG
 
Welcome. A lot of great build posts to help you. The bed slide is another partial sheet of plywood with a front face to hold the cushions and make the pullout easier. There are wood tracks on either side with stops. There is a 1/2" lip between the overhang and pullout. We installed Marine Hyper-vent to help with airflow under the matteress and make the bed fully level. We lift up the Hyper-vent and slide the slide back in. Camper is in storage so no pictures. Good luck and keep posting pictures. jd
 
For my overhead bed I used 3/4" plywood. The slide out is also 3/4". To support it against the main bed, I used a 1 1/2" piece of aluminum angle screwed to the front wall. On each side I laminated 2 3/4" plywood pieces together for extra width. I think they are about 4 inches high and the length was determined by screwing the to the aluminum framing members. I know my passenger side is longer than the drivers side. Then to add strength to the pull out plywood, I bought a piece of 1x4 oak and using a table saw, I made a slot for the 3/4" plywood to fit into and be screwed and glued. So the aluminum angle supports the cabover edge, the wood pieces are screwed to the framing, and supports the ends, and the 1x4 stiffens the front edge. I'm about 235#s and it's plenty strong enough. I've got a few pictures here. http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/15487-1978-fwc-new-owner/page-7
Take your time and thoroughly read these 2 threads, you will find just about all the info you will need.
http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/11945-84-fleet-09-tacoma-project/
http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/12116-new-build-1981-grandby-to-become-a-hawk/
PS I bet I don't have $300 in the materials for the canvas sides. Living the Dream's video covers making them. All you need is the right sewing machine. Buy one used, sell it when you are done! Save plenty moola!
 
Welcome to WTW!! It’s a great group, with great members.

I just caught your title of Flawk. It’s pretty neat that an older pop up is being saved and transformed into a different configuration. Having ATC do your vinyl and insulation pack is a good move. I think you’ll be impressed with the results. Keep us posted on your progress. :)
 
Welcome and what a project!

Flawk, eh? As you'll be "going up the country", your project could also be "Canned Heet". :p

Paul
 
Welcome to WTW. Lots of these old campers being brought back to life here. You are in good company!
 
Hello lostwon and welcome to the forum.

It will be fun to follow along with your build. You certainly dove in quickly with the dismantling and starting to figure how you will make adjustments to the floor plan and height. For some of us, it is fun to do the rebuild, and try to save money in the process.

My build is the Grandby to Hawk thread, and I wondered what I should call it. After your clever name of "Flawk", maybe I should call mine a "Grawk"! Kind of starting to sound a little Dr Seuss all of a sudden.

Anyhow here's a few pictures of my bed board slide out that might be of help to you, per your request. My bed overhang is 36", and the slide is 24". I pull it out about one more foot for a 48" wide bed, which is quite roomy for one. My slide has a 1"x 4" x 3/4" oak board across the face, with 1/2" thick plywood for the base. I rounded the edges on each side, and did a bevel cut on the back so there isn't a 1/2" hard drop off to feel under the mattress. Rounding the edges seemed to help the slide bind less moving it in and out.

Good luck on your build and feel free to ask questions on anything I can help with.

Poky

full

full

full
 
Thanks all for the information and welcomes!

Made a few repairs to the aluminum frame tonight. One crack repair and then some reinforcement where someone cut out part of the structure to install a refrigerator vent. I don't have a welder so quickest and easiest repair for me was to install and aluminum doubler and river in a piece of aluminum angle. Not the greatest repair ever but hey, it's a camper...

IMG_3409.JPG
 
And then removed the floor pack. Not sure if anyone else ran into the same thing I did, but all of the fasteners had somehow become countersunk into the old wood and made them difficult and time consuming to remove. The majority of them I had to drill the wood out around the fastener in order for the nut driver to grab.
IMG_3407.JPG
 
In places that you have a crack in the aluminum and you have shored up the break by either riveting or screwing in splints on either side,..... apply J B Weld in a thing overcoat. It is a very reliable 2 part metal epoxy that is quite durable. It has saved my whiskers an number of times.
 
buckland said:
In places that you have a crack in the aluminum and you have shored up the break by either riveting or screwing in splints on either side,..... apply J B Weld in a thing overcoat. It is a very reliable 2 part metal epoxy that is quite durable. It has saved my whiskers an number of times.
I actually do something similar but use a product that is used on aircraft as a structural adhesive and fuel tank sealant. Not sure why other industries don't use it as it has incredible bonding and sealing capabilities yet remains slightly flexible. I'll use be same product to seal the roof, windows, and anywhere else I don't want water creeping in.


http://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/ps890.php?clickkey=476681

I've also used aircraft structural flush rivets for the patches.
 
Can you remove this adhesive? If you need to remove a window, you don’t want something with the strength of a 3M 5200.

Curious question... have you built a plane?
 
Wandering Sagebrush said:
Can you remove this adhesive? If you need to remove a window, you don’t want something with the strength of a 3M 5200.

Curious question... have you built a plane?
It can be removed with a plastic scraper and a lot of elbow grease. I've never used 3M 5200, but I would trust Proseal to bond a window in place with no fasteners and would be able to remove if I needed to.

I've not built an airplane in terms of a homebuilt or anything like that but sure have had a lot of them torn apart and put back together. I am a helicopter mechanic by trade.
 
I spent 10+ years in aviation maintenance, mostly helicopters. Avionics and QA. Sometimes I think it would be fun to turn a wrench again, but then reality and the love of retirement sets back in. Where are you located?
 
Congrats on the purchase. Looks like it is going to be a fun project! Way to get right into it.

Looks like poky and shellback both gave some great advice on bed pull out. It is a pretty straightforward process but I still had some issues with it (never posted about it). That big sheet of plywood needs some rigidity to hold someone sleeping on it. I ended up adding some aluminum braces along the bottom which to sure everything up. Also. I actually ended up using a little foam (tool box drawer liner) where the sheet of plywood contacts the wooden supports on three sides. This helped everything set together (not just wood/wood contact) and really made it stable. It took a few tweaks but in the end was not a very difficult project. I am sure you can make something that works well.

I don't know what you were getting at about your last question from your initial post, about the bulb seal. Probably because I have an old camper too that doesn't have it. Maybe post a picture because I would love to learn too.


And it came with the sideliner materials!! That's just a massive invitation to make your own :) I am sure someone on this site would be interested in purchasing the material if you go with ATC (a very good option).


Looking forward to following along. - Tim
 
Living The Dream said:
Congrats on the purchase. Looks like it is going to be a fun project! Way to get right into it.

Looks like poky and shellback both gave some great advice on bed pull out. It is a pretty straightforward process but I still had some issues with it (never posted about it). That big sheet of plywood needs some rigidity to hold someone sleeping on it. I ended up adding some aluminum braces along the bottom which to sure everything up. Also. I actually ended up using a little foam (tool box drawer liner) where the sheet of plywood contacts the wooden supports on three sides. This helped everything set together (not just wood/wood contact) and really made it stable. It took a few tweaks but in the end was not a very difficult project. I am sure you can make something that works well.

I don't know what you were getting at about your last question from your initial post, about the bulb seal. Probably because I have an old camper too that doesn't have it. Maybe post a picture because I would love to learn too.


And it came with the sideliner materials!! That's just a massive invitation to make your own :) I am sure someone on this site would be interested in purchasing the material if you go with ATC (a very good option).


Looking forward to following along. - Tim
Thanks for the info!

Apparently the newer models have a seal around the front edge of the camper so that seals between the roof and the top edge of the cabover so that when the top is down water cannot get in when driving. Someone had mentioned it in another post but I can't find it again and can't really find any other information regarding what the actual seal looks like or where to buy it.


We did place an order with ATC for the new popup and arctic pack so will probably wait until we receive it and then sell the material that came with the camper.

View attachment 29695

Got a good start in the new floor pack today. I wanted to maximize the floor space so it's built fairly tight to the tundra's bed. It might be a bear backing the truck into it as there isn't a lot of room between the floor pack and the truck's fenders. I gained about a foot of width at the fenders from the Fleet floor pack and will gain about 5.5" of height. This whole thing would have been a lot easier with a table saw but I made due with a skill saw, clamps, and a straight edge.
 
Back
Top Bottom