Fuel Cans

an acquaintance mounted his rotopax here. I like the use of that space.

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I like that too... is that a through bolt or did they get lucky with hitting the framing?
 
I've been brainstorming and reviewing others approach to mounting a shovel. I came up with this, which was easy to do.

I'm probably overly conservative, but in bad winds would it be enough to snap the top of the shovel off? I'm uncomfortable with the potential to litter a piece of metal onto a roadway that could cause an accident for someone else. That said, seems some have managed with bungies or other strap devices and been ok...


edit: I have no idea why the photos are rotated 90 degrees... nor how to fix it. :-\
 

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doc said:
I've been brainstorming and reviewing others approach to mounting a shovel. I came up with this, which was easy to do.

I'm probably overly conservative, but in bad winds would it be enough to snap the top of the shovel off? I'm uncomfortable with the potential to litter a piece of metal onto a roadway that could cause an accident for someone else. That said, seems some have managed with bungies or other strap devices and been ok...


edit: I have no idea why the photos are rotated 90 degrees... nor how to fix it. :-\
If you're worried about the wing nuts working loose there's an old desert racer's trick that will stop it. Drill a small hole at the tip of the ears of both wing nuts. Then get a coil spring that will *just* stretch enough to reach from hole to hole. The trick is to hook the spring in the hole of the ear that has to TIGHTEN in order from the spring to relax.
 
Mine is similar to what others have done with the AT can. Attached to the jack bracket and also bolted through in the propane tank compartment. Kinda had to see the attachment on the bottom but there are 4 more bolts underneath.
 

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Very timely post--I'm about to add a custom aluminum box and a 2-gallon Rotopax to the back of my 2016 Fleet and need to fabricate and install a bracket. See my attached photo.

The cross bracket (yellow box on photo) will span from the grab handle to the jack bracket. I'm planning to attach the bracket using some combination of existing mounting points - grab handle, steps, jack bracket mounting screws or jack mounting holes. The bracket will be made from either 3/16" or 1/4" inch aluminum plate.

The steps are in the way and will be removed and the mounting holes will be covered with a plate or incorporated into mounting the bracket. I can't see how they are mounted because of the propane box. The steps on the left side of the camper are attached using bolts with backing washers.

So, some questions:
  1. Is the grab handle mounted with two screws (as opposed to being bolted) through a frame member? I assume so, but don't want to be surprised.
  2. Is the lower step screwed through a frame member or bolted through the wall ? I'm guessing it's screwed through a frame member because of its location.
  3. Is the right step bolted or screwed? I'm guessing it's bolted through the wall behind the propane box.Bracket Mounting Points.jpg
  4. Can I use the screws that attach the jack brackets to the camper or should I use the jack mounting holes instead?
Just FYI, the aluminum dry box will be mounted vertically next to the door using this cross bracket and will also sit on a lower bracket bolted through the floor of the camper. The Rotopax will be mounted on the cross bracket to the right of the box. The box (on order) will be 35"L x 13"W x 10.5"D and will weigh about 17 lbs dry and will be used to store about 10 lbs of light weight but bulky items like life jackets, Alpacka raft, etc. The Rotopax will be empty 95% of the time and used primarily to fill the water tank when I can't use a hose or when I need to filter water to add to tank.

Many thanks, in advance, for your help.
 
@Todgru. Many thanks for your response and experience. I think I'll do the same as you, and use the existing handle holes to bolt all the way through to the inside with as large a backing washer as will fit the space.

@Nikonron. I really like your swing out bumper and was really close to going that route, but backed off because of the weight and changes I'd have to make to my suspension. Thanks for confirming that these steps are bolted through to the inside. Do they go through a frame member?

I can access the upper right step by cutting an access hole in the propane tank followed by a patch. The lower right step, however, appears to land between the interior cabinets and propane tank box. Taking out the cabinets would be a pretty major deal. But, I'd really like to remove the step.

I can always design the bracket to clear the steps, but would prefer a cleaner install that gets the box and Rotopax as close to the frame as possible. I can also add a piece to the bracket that would allow it to also be attached underneath the camper wing below the propane box like many others have done. Is that necessary?

I'm assuming I'm not the only guy who'd like to remove a step to install a fuel can bracket.
Does anyone have any experience with removing that particular step (upper right) on a recent Fleet?

Also, readers, let me know if I should move my issues to a separate thread. I was planning to write this up once installed in about 6 weeks.
 
We only use one of the two propane cannisters, and put a 2 gal grey water bucket where the other one was. But I was thinking of putting fuel in there. Any thoughts on putting fuel in the propane compartment? Strap it in like the propane cannister.
 
rubberlegs said:
We only use one of the two propane cannisters, and put a 2 gal grey water bucket where the other one was. But I was thinking of putting fuel in there. Any thoughts on putting fuel in the propane compartment? Strap it in like the propane cannister.
Both have the chance of nasty unexpected combustion but I assume that gasoline is more dangerous in a collision. Think Pinto. Plus if a gasoline container leaks in that compartment can fumes enter the inside of the camper? Jerry can or propane bottle; seems bottle is more resistant to loss of contents...but hey, I could be wrong.
 
On our front dinette 2014 Hawk, there is a vent on the bottom of the propane compartment that vents any gases to the outside. It is covered by a metal grill that can be felt under the wing. Any liquid would also flow out the same vent into the bed of the pickup. Still not a good thing but does not dump into the camper interior. Propane gas is heavier than air. Don't think the same is true for gasoline fumes.

I'm with Phil re: the Pinto.

Paul
 
The reason that modern homes with the water heater in the garage have the water heater on an elevated pedestal is gasoline vapors. The idea is to keep the water heater's ignition above and away from any gasoline vapors that might be swirling around on the floor.
 
Very generalized:
• air has a molecular weight of 29.
• gasoline has a molecular weight of about 85.
• molecular weight of propane is about 44.
 
There’s probably no good place to put fuel except in the original fuel tank. Well, I was just thinking about a trip where we might be far between gas stations.....
 
ntsqd said:
The reason that modern homes with the water heater in the garage have the water heater on an elevated pedestal is gasoline vapors. The idea is to keep the water heater's ignition above and away from any gasoline vapors that might be swirling around on the floor.

True...but there is electrical in the bed of the truck...and of course other ignition sources...like the heater or any other electrical connection...nothing I would wish to bet my life on..

Many homes with hot water heaters in the garages have gone boom...fumes do not just hug the floor.

Propane tanks are safe but of course the lines and fittings can leak also...gasoline once released is plain scary to me..but hey, I could be wrong! :cool:

Phil
 
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