FWC Electrical Connection to Trucks Power?

Bombsight

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I'm curious as to how the FWC electronics (Brake light, running lights, battery charging, etc, etc.) connect to most trucks.

Do they connect in the bed area?

Do we need a special connection via truck dealership or FWC?

Any info. or pics of the connection on a GMC Sierra would be awesome.

Thanks
 
There is a connection from truck to camper on the drivers side front of the bed.
This was installed by FWC on both of my Chevys. They run a power line to that directly from the truck battery and another line to the lighting system in the truck usually in the tailgate light.

They look like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Attwood-Connector-Trolling-Motor-Female/dp/B001O0D6O2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1454953366&sr=8-3&keywords=attwood+trolling+motor+plug


http://www.amazon.com/Attwood-Connector-Trolling-Motor-Male/dp/B001O0D6NI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1454953366&sr=8-1&keywords=attwood+trolling+motor+plug
 
On mine there are no brake lights or running lights on the camper itself so its just a ground and hot into the camper.
 
What about the wire size and fusing for the wiring coming from the truck to the camper? Any suggestions on what to use there? I would think a #10 wire and a 30amp Fuse would be more than adequate, but looking for suggestions.

Don

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While 10 ga is what FWC uses, it is a one time expense so I would use 6 or 8 and forego the concern about voltage drop and lower charging ability. FWC uses a 30 amp self resetting circuit breaker and that seems to be fine.

Paul
 
I'd do that also if I were rewiring mine. I ran a second set of 10ga just because I had it sitting around.
 
You will get a better charge on your batteries by going to a heavier gauge wire. I would use 6 :)
 
Thanks for the input all. I do feel the need to say one thing though about larger wire sizes that I keep seeing here as I read more an more about my future camper. While using larger wire sizes is obviously not a problem (other than expense), unless I'm missing something, I don't think using them will generally give you a "better" charge. Quicker yes, but either will still get to the same voltage level. Even the smallest wire with higher resistance will still flow current if the voltage potential is different between the source and the depleted battery. Any current flow will provide charging for the battery, raising it's voltage. As the voltage gets closer between the two, the current will get less, and therefor the voltage drop due to wire resistance gets less. At some point, they will equalize as long as the there isn't a large continuous drain on the camper battery. Also, if there is smaller wire at any point along the path, you need to fuse the line for the that wire rating. Being able to through 50+ amps into a camper battery isn't necessarily a good thing either. Given the choice, it's better from a battery health perspective to charge a battery slower as long as you're still getting a full charge by the time you stop again.

Don

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The plug is mounted by FWC/Dealer on the drivers side of the bed rail. They mount the rest under the hood next to the battery
Jd

Sent from my SM-G900V using Wander The West mobile app
 
Theory says that nearly any wire size will eventually get the job done. Reality is that in the typical time available a 10 ga. will sometimes get it done within the charging time available and sometimes not. All depends on how you use the rig.

It is possible to choose a wire small enough that the voltage drop results in no charge at all. That size is determined by the total length of the circuit, not just the length of the positive wire.
 
Bombsight said:
[SIZE=12.152777671813965px]Thanks, everyone.[/SIZE]
Is there a mount for the plugs or do they just hang in the bed?
The female marinco plug has two screws that mount it to the bed. Use a metal cutting hole saw to drill the hole for the plug.
 
I'm still confused as to how & where they mount the male/female adapters ... but it seems like, using a piece of flat bar aluminum, double bolted to the bed rail, would be easier and less damaging to the truck .... eliminating the need for such a big hole and more chances of it rusting.
 
When mounting the connector to the bed wall, I use bolt and nuts, not screws. Too often the screws pull out of the thin bed wall due to the friction of some connectors and the resulting tugging and pulling at angles and straight out.
 
Be aware FWC Color code is white 12v +, black 12v -. If your truck is equipped with a tow package it is likely the reverse, in keeping with RV code. Quick ck with a meter to verify would is advised.
 
Has anyone with a built in 110 3 prong outlet in their truck bed tried putting a three prong male end on the wires coming off the FWC and plugging it into their truck?
 
Joel H said:
Has anyone with a built in 110 3 prong outlet in their truck bed tried putting a three prong male end on the wires coming off the FWC and plugging it into their truck?

To which wires coming off the FWC do you refer?

The AC input socket on the side of the camper is the only place that should be attached to 110v AC outlet in the truck bed.

The three wires on the pigtail from the camper are 12 volt DC positive and 12v DC negative and the third is 12 volt DC positive for the marker lights. It would be a very bad thing to hook up 12 volt DC power input to 110 volt AC outlet.

Paul
 

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