FWC Pressure Water System

[Yubaman]

Hi All,

Need your advice. I have one thing to fix and one thing to add.

The fix: I hate the Whale plunger type faucet. It leaks and does not go up to the off position quickly. I have installed a rebuild kit and it stills works like crap. I want to replace it with something better. What are your thoughts on a great sink faucet setup?

The add: I want to pressurize the outdoor valve and add a little hose w/spray nozzle, ideally with an easy to turn on/off switch near the back somewhere. I think I saw someone say they have connected their outside nozzle to pressure but I don't think that he posted the actual mod.

thanks to all for the forums!!!

Greg

 

[CougarCouple]

Hello yubaman
Look into " bar faucets. " for a replacment as some are too high when the camper is in the down position. Not sure I understand your second part question. Are you speaking of the shower or the tank drain?

Russ

 

[Vic Harder]

Hi All,

Need your advice. I have one thing to fix and one thing to add.

The fix: I hate the Whale plunger type faucet. It leaks and does not go up to the off position quickly. I have installed a rebuild kit and it stills works like crap. I want to replace it with something better. What are your thoughts on a great sink faucet setup?

The add: I want to pressurize the outdoor valve and add a little hose w/spray nozzle, ideally with an easy to turn on/off switch near the back somewhere. I think I saw someone say they have connected their outside nozzle to pressure but I don't think that he posted the actual mod.

thanks to all for the forums!!!

Greg

That would be me.

Faucet - I can heartily recommend the Shurflo line ... like this one
https://www.amazon.com/SHURFLO-9400912-Electric-Faucet-without/dp/B009TRRXQO/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=shurflo+faucet&qid=1557797160&s=gateway&sr=8-4


On the how to pressurize the drain line, it really depends on how your version of the camper is plumbed. Check your pump, so see what lines it pressurizes. In my case, it ONLY pressurized the line going to faucet (I know that because I plumbed it that way). However, the "city water" port also pressurizes the faucet. SO, if the pump is pressurizing that line, you need a one way valve (or a simple shut off valve) to keep the pump from pushing water out of the the city line when it isn't hooked up.

Once you find a pressurized line, insert a "T" fitting into it. Again, it depends on what kind of line you have. I used at PEX "T", and routed that to the drain line.

Then, you have to make a choice: Will the drain line be functional as a "drain" without running the pump or not?

I chose not, as I wasn't sure it would work, even if I wanted it to, with the extra bits in the way.

So, using NOT as choice, I cut the drain line close to the tank, and capped it off. Consequences? NO way to drain the tank now without running the pump. Problem? Not so far.

Next, I took the output of that pressurized T I installed in the previous step, and connected it to the drain line.

I also upgraded the drain valve to a nice brass bodied, ball valve type. Voila, pressurized outside water.

I hope that helps.

 

[Yubaman]

Hello yubaman
Look into " bar faucets. " for a replacment as some are too high when the camper is in the down position. Not sure I understand your second part question. Are you speaking of the shower or the tank drain?

Russ

Thanks Russ,

I want to pressurize the tank drain and add a little quick connect hose and sprayer. Will look at the bar faucets.

Greg

 

[Yubaman]

That would be me.

Faucet - I can heartily recommend the Shurflo line ... like this one
https://www.amazon.com/SHURFLO-9400912-Electric-Faucet-without/dp/B009TRRXQO/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=shurflo+faucet&qid=1557797160&s=gateway&sr=8-4


On the how to pressurize the drain line, it really depends on how your version of the camper is plumbed. Check your pump, so see what lines it pressurizes. In my case, it ONLY pressurized the line going to faucet (I know that because I plumbed it that way). However, the "city water" port also pressurizes the faucet. SO, if the pump is pressurizing that line, you need a one way valve (or a simple shut off valve) to keep the pump from pushing water out of the the city line when it isn't hooked up.

Once you find a pressurized line, insert a "T" fitting into it. Again, it depends on what kind of line you have. I used at PEX "T", and routed that to the drain line.

Then, you have to make a choice: Will the drain line be functional as a "drain" without running the pump or not?

I chose not, as I wasn't sure it would work, even if I wanted it to, with the extra bits in the way.

So, using NOT as choice, I cut the drain line close to the tank, and capped it off. Consequences? NO way to drain the tank now without running the pump. Problem? Not so far.

Next, I took the output of that pressurized T I installed in the previous step, and connected it to the drain line.

I also upgraded the drain valve to a nice brass bodied, ball valve type. Voila, pressurized outside water.

I hope that helps.

Thanks Vic. I had no idea that the city water pressurized the faucet. I just fill the tank and go!! Greg

 

[BFH4N]

Soon after I got my Fleet, it became apparent that the OEM Whale faucet had to go. I looked at a lot of bath and bar faucets online, searching for the right combination of rise above the sink and extension out over the sink, trying to maximize both. It had to be single-lever to solve the problem the OEM faucet had of wet hands dripping onto the counter when turning the handles. The replacement faucet can't rise too high or the ceiling will hit it when the top is down, but the one I chose is about as tall as possible. I made a little cushioned cover to slip over the faucet handle, which protects the wall fabric from abrasion when the top is down. The biggest problem was that the hole in the coutertop is rectangular, to accomodate the Whale faucet and any replacement will require a single or three round holes. My faucet needed a single hole, so I had to make a stainless steel plate to mount the faucet and cover the rectangular hole in the countertop. I caulked the heck out of it with 3M 4000. I had to redo the plumbing some and remove the sink to get at it. It was quite a project, but definitely worth it.

- Bernard

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Soon after I got my Fleet, it became apparent that the OEM Whale faucet had to go. I looked at a lot of bath and bar faucets online, searching for the right combination of rise above the sink and extension out over the sink, trying to maximize both. It had to be single-lever to solve the problem the OEM faucet had of wet hands dripping onto the counter when turning the handles. The replacement faucet can't rise too high or the ceiling will hit it when the top is down, but the one I chose is about as tall as possible. I made a little cushioned cover to slip over the faucet handle, which protects the wall fabric from abrasion when the top is down. The biggest problem was that the hole in the coutertop is rectangular, to accomodate the Whale faucet and any replacement will require a single or three round holes. My faucet needed a single hole, so I had to make a stainless steel plate to mount the faucet and cover the rectangular hole in the countertop. I caulked the heck out of it with 3M 4000. I had to redo the plumbing some and remove the sink to get at it. It was quite a project, but definitely worth it.

- Bernard

A cautionary tale for single handle faucets.

Ensure your water pump is off when traveling. A bump can flip the handle enough to turn things on. Multiple stories in Airforums about flooded trailers. We have found ours flipped, but thankfully... the pump was off.

 

[BFH4N]

Good point, Sagebrush. Of course, I would "never" forget to tun off the pump before driving, but the padded cover I slip onto the faucet handle (to protect the wall fabric) also insures that the handle stays down.

- Bernard

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Good point, Sagebrush. Of course, I would "never" forget to tun off the pump before driving, but the padded cover I slip onto the faucet handle (to protect the wall fabric) also insures that the handle stays down.

- Bernard

I use a reusable rubber zip style tie to keep things from moving.

 

[Yubaman]

I have ordered a foldable stainless faucet from Amaaon and if it works I will post the item.

Regarding pressurizing the tank drain, FWC makes it darn near impossible to access the line without removing the tank, and that looks like a big job. (2012 Eagle) Anyone have any ideas?

 

[pvstoy]

You could always leave the drain alone. "T" into a existing pressurised line and plumb it to the outside wall. Use a good quality faucet or a quick connect for a hose. If you had a outside shower then this would accomplish what you want, just use a different hose and end.

 

[Yubaman]

pvstoy,

Yup, i think i need to get off my fascination with the drain!! quick-connect is the ticket.

Thanks all.

 

[Yubaman]

Soon after I got my Fleet, it became apparent that the OEM Whale faucet had to go. I looked at a lot of bath and bar faucets online, searching for the right combination of rise above the sink and extension out over the sink, trying to maximize both. It had to be single-lever to solve the problem the OEM faucet had of wet hands dripping onto the counter when turning the handles. The replacement faucet can't rise too high or the ceiling will hit it when the top is down, but the one I chose is about as tall as possible. I made a little cushioned cover to slip over the faucet handle, which protects the wall fabric from abrasion when the top is down. The biggest problem was that the hole in the coutertop is rectangular, to accomodate the Whale faucet and any replacement will require a single or three round holes. My faucet needed a single hole, so I had to make a stainless steel plate to mount the faucet and cover the rectangular hole in the countertop. I caulked the heck out of it with 3M 4000. I had to redo the plumbing some and remove the sink to get at it. It was quite a project, but definitely worth it.

- Bernard

What did you do to adapt from the bar faucet to the water inlet, looks like 1/2" hose?

 

[BFH4N]

As I recall, the OEM Whale faucet was connected directly to the pex pipes. My new faucet had stainless-covered hoses for connection, so I had to do some modifying. Access was very limited, so I took the sink out temorarily and then it was pretty easy. I added a provision for a charcoal filter in the cold water line while I was at it, which complicated thinks a bit more.

- Bernard

 

[patrkbukly]

I bought this at Ace last year. HAs been great.

 

[Yubaman]

This is the faucet I ended up with:

[SIZE=11pt]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FMZVYVP/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_Myu5CbG9QNGQK $40[/SIZE]

[SIZE=11pt]It needed a shank extender, [/SIZE]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F9N93A/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_1Ku5CbNKZ17S0

and a standard 1/2" supply line with nipple to replace the rube goldberg setup that came with. I will take a picture.

 

[pictor1]

I have a 2012 Fleet which I purchased new. It has performed flawlessly until now. I partially filled the water tank this weekend, approximately 3/4 according to leds. But when I went to use the faucet this weekend no water and the pump when switched on just ran continuously. I have a hot water tank which I have never touched but has always worked as described, and an out side shower which has always worked. The water pump sounds the same as always but there is no water swirling around in the filter glass so I suspect that water is not getting from the tank to the pump.

So I am guessing that I need water pressure that I now don't have or there is a blockage between tank and the pump. Any thoughts/comments will be greatly appreciated. thanks

 

[larryqp]

If your pump is running continuously, suspect either something is open or you have an air leak because once the pump pressurizes the system and all faucets and valves are shut, the pump will stop. I think if you had a blockage the system would still pressurize. Another possibility might be the pump diaphragm might have a tear.

 

[GDinMT]

You might check to make sure the valve on the drain line is in the closed position. If left in the open position, the system cannot properly pressurize.

 

[pvstoy]

https://fourwheelcampers.com/video/water-system-hot-water-heater-sink/

This might explain things on valves. The pump needs a closed system to build up pressure. Air in system with water does not compress much and the pump keeps pumping. Or like what was said the pump is compromised.

With the water faucet open do you hear air coming out? Maybe you are just filling the water heater that takes six gallons and takes a while. Play with your valves with the pump running and see if there are changes. Look for leaks in the system.