FWC Solar Connector

[BillTheHiker]

I just received my 100 watt solar panel from AM solar. It will be roof mounted using their "rocker feet" which elevate the panel for air flow and is attached via adhesive tape. My understanding is the connector on the bottom of the panel is an MC4. I inserted a pic so maybe someone can confirm it.

What type of connector is needed to plug into the rooftop plug on my 2017 FWC Fleet which was prewired for solar?

 

[badtoytrd]

I just received my 100 watt solar panel from AM solar. It will be roof mounted using their "rocker feet" which elevate the panel for air flow and is attached via adhesive tape. My understanding is the connector on the bottom of the panel is an MC4. I inserted a pic so maybe someone can confirm it.

What type of connector is needed to plug into the rooftop plug on my 2017 FWC Fleet which was prewired for solar?

You are correct. That is an MC4. If your roof connector was installed by FWC you should have an SAE. You have 2 choices. One being buy an SAE to MC4 adapter or the other being cut the MC4 off and install an SAE connector which may void your warranty. I have heard that FWC has some 90 degree SAE connectors that they may be willing to sell you. I really wish FWC would go to an MC4 style connector. I just installed a 180 watt panel with the AM Solar mount and it is super nice and easy to install.

 

[PaulT]

MC4 to SAE2 pin flat adapter here. https://www.amazon.com/RENOGY-MC4-to-SAE-Adaptor/dp/B01N1TALFY

Paul

 

[Outnabout]

I bought a couple of MC4 connectors and attached to the ends of the SAE plug wires and plugged the ones from the panel into the plug, basically he same as the adaptor but I made it myself. It was easy and works well.

 

[Karlton]

I used the exact adaptor that Paul linked. Not sure if you've noted, but the polarity will be reversed when you use the adaptor. Thus, the red wire in your cabinet labeled 'roof solar' or something similar will be negative as a result of the Zamp port on the roof. Check the polarity of the wires before completing install. There are several threads discussing.

 

[rando]

Your camper should come with 2 right angle SAE plugs - you can either buy an MC4 jumper and make an adapter, or cut off the wires on the panel and solder on the SAE connector.

 

[BillTheHiker]

Thanks for the suggestions. Renology is out of stock on the adapter and so far all other sources appear to also be out. So I may have to do the custom connector. I do not want to cut wires on the panel as that would void the warranty. I would rather ship it back and get the correct connector but that is last choice option.

So, how exactly do I make the connector -never done much electrical work.

 

[rando]

You can buy an MC4 jumper like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-10AWG-Extension-Female-connectors/dp/B00IFWKBIG

Cut it in the middle, solder it to the ends of the SAE jumper that comes with the camper (mine came with about 18" of wire attached to the connector), heat shrink it and call it good. You will need to do some figuring to get the polarity right though.

Depending on where you mount the panel relative to the roof plug, you may be able to connect the SAE pigtail direct to the panel and do away with the jumper. I personally wouldn't sweat the warranty - in the extremely unlikely case that this dies after you install it, packaging/shipping the panel is more hassle than the cost of a new 100W panel.

 

[rustytinbender]

I cut my MC4 connectors off the panels and wired to an SAE plug. When the 2 - 100 watt Renogy flexible panels failed they still warrantied them. Since then I have installed a 160 watt rigid and 120 watt flexible panel. Cut the ends off of those too and installed a SAE plug. They have been working fine.

As was mentioned before it's very important that you get the polarity right though.

 

[So Cal Adventurer]

As stated above, CHECK POLARITY of the wires labeled solar in your battery bank, they will most likely be backwards.

 

[PaulT]

Haven’t tried it but it appears you could use on of these as a gender-bender with the Renogy MC4 adapter above to switch polarity without cutting. Pick one with 8 or 10 ga wire. After testing polarity, use electrical tape to tape the correct connectors together.

https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Trucker-Disconnect-Harness-Connector/dp/B01GK9HV9C/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1524434709&sr=1-4&keywords=Sae++2+pin+connector

Paul

 

[rando]

Nice thing about making your own adapter is that you get to chose the polarity - so you can end up the 'right way around'.

The SAE connector (like the Anderson Power Pole) just needs to go away as they are terrible connectors. But as long as manufacturers keep installing them, they will continue to be the standard.

 

[BillTheHiker]

Finally got all the components I need but have a question. The solar wires that are labeled rear, roof and battery are terminated in two clear plastic boxes. What are those plastic boxes, should they be removed and how?

 

[So Cal Adventurer]

Finally got all the components I need but have a question. The solar wires that are labeled rear, roof and battery are terminated in two clear plastic boxes. What are those plastic boxes, should they be removed and how?

Check the polarity. If you’re not using Zamp, they are probably backwards

 

[BillTheHiker]

My question is how to access those wires? the ends are enclosed in clear plastic cases. I am tempted to just smash the plastic or cut them off but figure I should try to find out what they are first. In the photo, if you zoom into the bottom you can see the coils of wire are all terminated in these little plastic boxes.

 

[So Cal Adventurer]

My question is how to access those wires? the ends are enclosed in clear plastic cases. I am tempted to just smash the plastic or cut them off but figure I should try to find out what they are first. In the photo, if you zoom into the bottom you can see the coils of wire are all terminated in these little plastic boxes.

Did you look in the actual Battery Bank area? Mine were in there labeled. No plastic casing like you show in that photo

 

[pvstoy]

Those plastic cases can be opened. The ends have a bump out tab on the sides. Take a small flat blade and pry apart each side. Then the clear outer case comes off. That leaves you with a metal tab that holds the wire that is pushed in. With flat blade pry up on the metal tab and pull out the wire. Put it back together with plyers until it snaps. Then you can push in another stripped wire end.

 

[BillTheHiker]

Did you look in the actual Battery Bank area? Mine were in there labeled. No plastic casing like you show in that photo

The ones in my photo get connected to the solar controller and are labeled battery, roof and rear. I will not be using the rear unless I get a portable solar panel. The wires in the battery box are labeled solar battery and have already wired them up, hot one with a fuse.

 

[BillTheHiker]

I finally got everything I need to proceed and hopefully finish up this project. Following is what I have done so far -please critique.

I went with the MC4 to SAE adapter, mainly because I have very limited wiring experience, so it was simple. As suggested, I checked the polarity of the wires in the camper and they are reversed. I bought a multimeter, which also have zero experience using, but figured it out. I set the solar panel on the ground, titled to directly face the sun, but the panel is partly shaded due to tree leafs.

I plugged it into the rear solar plug. I took the two wires labeled "rear solar", and using the probes on the multimeter it showed positive 1.30 amps when the black probe touched the red wire and red probe touched the black wire. Reversing the contacts, it showed negative .7 amps. I also tested the battery posts, red to red, which showed positive 12.78 volts and that is exactly the number I get with my new battery charger so it seems the multimeter is pretty accurate and I think I am safe connecting the solar wires in reverse to the Morningstar solar controller.

There are also a red and black wire labeled battery to be connected to the Morningstar controller. Am I correct they should be connected red wire to positive and black to ground,i.e., not reversed? And I think the same goes for the red and black wires in the battery compartment labeled "solar battery" and I have a 30 amp inline fuse for the red(hot) wire.