Geared Lugnut Wrench

Wandering Sagebrush

Free Range Human
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Northeast Oregon
I’m normally annoyed by ads when web surfing, but this one caught my eye as something that might be useful for us geezers as strength declines with age. I have no idea if it really works...

BF008394-B15E-4C46-924B-57761E8F4677.jpeg

https://www.garrettwade.com/lug-nut-remover.html

Interesting reviews, two of the five say it’s great, but I haven’t used it yet.
 
With our Unit (wheel) Bearing type front 4WD axle there is a BIG nut in the middle of the hub. To be able to replace the wheel bearing you need to be able to get that nut loose and then be able to tighten it on re-assembly. To that end I bought a 24" long, 1/2" drive breaker bar and keep it, the socket for that nut, the socket for the bearing to knuckle bolts, and the lug nut socket in the truck. To get the BIG nut loose I place the bar with its end a bit above horizontal. And then stand on the end of it. 200 lbs (that I'll admit to) times 2 feet is ~400 foot-lbs of torque available with no real effort. If I bounce while standing on the bar it can easily triple that torque or more.
 
Good battery impact wrench. looks about same size and weight and can be used for many other applications.
 
Wonder if it's geezer proof :cautious: ? Got a torque wench too-----and with my 10 ply m/s tires I'm really ready to go anywhere-right!!

Smoke
 
Wandering Sagebrush said:
I’m normally annoyed by ads when web surfing, but this one caught my eye as something that might be useful for us geezers as strength declines with age. I have no idea if it really works...

attachicon.gif
BF008394-B15E-4C46-924B-57761E8F4677.jpeg

https://www.garrettwade.com/lug-nut-remover.html

Interesting reviews, two of the five say it’s great, but I haven’t used it yet.

Had an much earlier version of this tool I had laying around for years (deades). Think I finally just tossed it at the recycler. I have a long quality torque wrench that clicks when it reaches the setting. Found it much more convenient. I guess if you have something that really requires a lot of grunting it might be worthwhile. I just never did.
 
Be careful of using a torque wrench as a breaker bar. They're not designed for it and it is hard on them.
 
ntsqd said:
Be careful of using a torque wrench as a breaker bar. They're not designed for it and it is hard on them.
I was always taught to NEVER use a torque wrench to loosen nuts/bolts as it will destroy the calibration.
 
...and loosen the torque setting off when not used.

Using a breaker bar and applying a static load (standing on it) smack the head with a heavy hammer... Old fashion impact hammer.

I have never used a 12 volt impact hammer, do the good ones work good to break loose lug nuts at 120 foot pounds?
 
OK, now you have me wondering :( I only tighten my lugs to 95 but my 1/2 " Dewalt impact works fine. What would be recommended torque... F250 with Hawk running 35's on 20" factory rims?

pvstoy said:
...and loosen the torque setting off when not used.

Using a breaker bar and applying a static load (standing on it) smack the head with a heavy hammer... Old fashion impact hammer.

I have never used a 12 volt impact hammer, do the good ones work good to break loose lug nuts at 120 foot pounds?
 
pvstoy said:
...and loosen the torque setting off when not used.

Using a breaker bar and applying a static load (standing on it) smack the head with a heavy hammer... Old fashion impact hammer.

I have never used a 12 volt impact hammer, do the good ones work good to break loose lug nuts at 120 foot pounds?
I have a Milwaukee, the lighter one. it gets them off my F150 HD when they are properly torqued to 150ftlbs.

There is a stronger model and for putting them back on I got a torque stick that limits at 140Ftlbs.

the torque multipliers are interesting and I have concidered one but then I found the battery impact gun, I don't use my air impact gun at home any more.
 
A comment about torque wrenches; I know clickers are much more convenient to use, but when they go out of calibration there's no way to know. The Top Alcohol Dragster that I used to crew on went through a period where we were eating rod bearings and occasionally mains too. Turned out that the Snap-On clicker torque wrench we were using was badly out of calibration. Once Snap-On re-calibrated it the bearing problems disappeared.
When a beam type torque wrench is out of calibration you bend the little arm to hold "Zero" and you're pretty much good to go. At my work each line has a station that has to be partly taken apart each morning to change an o-ring. I require the tensilely loaded shoulder bolts be torqued on re-assembly to avoid any variation in product produced. And I supplied a beam type torque wrench because of my experiences with the TAD's bearings.

I have a DeWalt 1/2" cordless impact and I can't say that I'm unhappy with it, but when I have to replace it because it's NiMH batteries are done (coming soon) I'll buy a Milwaukee.
 

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