Glacier/Banff trip planning info request

[takesiteasy]

Summer is passing fast. Here in the north we sometimes joke that we have 2 seasons- winter and the 4th of July. Well, here it is the 4th. We got the camper loaded on the truck but haven't managed to escape yet.

We have decided to do a spur of the moment trip with Banff and Glacier as general targets- want to see the ice before it is all melted. We anticipate crowds given the timing so we are seeking suggestions for boondocking and less populated hikes and sights to see.

We plan to take our time- maybe 3 weeks or more to drive from Minnesota. Plan to stop at Teddy Roosevelt NP and from there the route is open.

Any and all suggestions welcome. In the meantime I will be looking through past trip reports and planning threads to see what I can find. Thanks!

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

I like the area around Two Medicine Lake in Glacier. And yes on TRNP. I would like to explore the Grass Lands in that area, too. Watch out for the oil field traffic, it’s big and fast.

 

[Cayuse]

Bowman Lake on the west side of Glacier and some of that area is less crowded, also gets you close to the delicious edibles from the bakery at Polebridge Mercantile!

 

[billharr]

We did Stockton CA to Bemidji and back through Glacier. That part of my trip report here.

You MUST try one of these. Worth the drive to Polebridge.

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

Al A definite on the Bowman Lk area and the Polebridge Mercantile bakery.
If you can take your canoe Bowman is a great lake to use it.
There are a lot of nice sites there and you can leave your canoe lakeside
when not in use.
There is also another lake Kintla a few miles north of Bowman off the same park road.
It's very close to the Canadian border. Years ago there was a crossing there but
I think flood damage closed it.
Frank

 

[pvstoy]

https://www.pc.gc.ca/en/pn-np/ab/waterton/

Waterton had a fire September 2017 and burnt up lots that closed down much of the park along with the visitor center. So check the website for whats open and closed.

 

[takesiteasy]

Thanks for all the tips so far.

Polebridge Mercantile has been on my radar for a couple of years. Maybe this trip we will make a visit.

We are looking for boondocking areas near the parks since we expect them to be busy. It looks like the Bowman Lake campground fills up regularly in July. From what I have read it sounds like a nice area though.

How about Banff? Any thoughts on that area?

 

[Vic Harder]

How about Banff? Any thoughts on that area?

Banff is gorgeous, but most of the world knows that too. Check out Kananaskis Country, just south of Banff. What kinds of experiences are you looking for?

 

[takesiteasy]

Vic, thanks for responding. We will check out Kananaskis Country.

We like scenery, hikes and remote camping without lots of people. We also like exploring and not having to make reservations for camping so we can be more spontaneous. I'm not familiar with boondocking rules in Canada and need to investigate that. If you know of some good areas for that kind of experience please suggest them.

 

[Cayuse]

Bowman Lake CG might fill quickly but the road that runs up the west side of the park runs through forest service land and there are a number of places to get out and find some dispersed camping.

Banff is going to be crowded regardless. Look to the Provincial Parks as possibilities or going further north. Not sure what there is for Crown Land around Banff outside the park that might be an option.

 

[Vic Harder]

If you want to avoid crowds, then Banff is out for sure. That said, you have to drive the Icefields Parkway road at least once. It IS one of the most scenic roads in the world. We've camped at the Wilcox Pass NPCG before and been quite happy. It is hard to pull a big rig into and at high altitude, so not many folks camp there. The hiking trail that starts there is amazing, giving you great views of the icefields within 30 minutes, and you can hike up into the meadows or summit a peak if you have the time and energy.

If you are coming from the south, pick up Hwy 40 in Coleman, Alberta and drive this Forestry Trunk road for as far as you like. Some of it is on crown land, and you can boondock or stay in small FS campsites.
http://albertascampgrounds.com/camping-along-albertas-forestry-trunk-road/

The paved part of Hwy 40 is in K-Country (Kananaskis). Wonderfully scenic, and you can also take the Smith Dorrian (gravel) road to get a different perspective on the some of the same peaks. Lots of great hiking. Camping is still tough to find though, as this is Calgary's playground, and on weekends it is PACKED full. That said, we have stayed at the Spray Lakes West campground and loved it (during the week).

If you are heading into BC, this old book is a classic, and there are www sites that are more up to date too
https://www.amazon.ca/Camp-Free-B-C-Explore-Paddle/dp/0973509937

Check out these resources
https://crowfootmedia.com/2017/03/12/free-camping-resources/

 

[iowahiker]

We have visited these places in July with and without reservations but never boon docked. Advice:

Check the Glacier NP wed site for campground fill times. The web site had enough data to plan our arrival early enough to get a site at the campgrounds without reservations. Best hiking was Two Medicine, Logan Pass (the lake trail, High Line trail), and Many Glacier. All are busy trails. Go in early September to avoid crowds.

The NF campgrounds on the east side of the mountains, west of Augusta and Choteau, MT, rarely filled during the week (or weekend) include some dispersed sites and are free or low cost. Get the Bob Marshal Wilderness trails book to find the hikes. Glacier trails are nicer but much busier.

Kananaskis, Canada, filled every weekend but had lots of sites mid-week including no-reservations campgrounds for staying Thursday through a weekend. No reservations campgrounds near lakes are busy all the time while empty during the week if far from a lake.

Lake Louise and Banff are best done with reservations, Lake Louise soft side campground was a nice central point for exploring with reservations. The town of Banff has large traffic jams and is better visited in the off-season. Moraine Lake near Lake Louise had large traffic jams. We found dispersed sites along the reservoir east of Saskatchewan Junction. Icefields Parkway campgrounds north of Lake Louis are mostly no-reservation and did not fill mid-afternoon mid-week except for Waterfowl Lakes (flush toilets). Every site was taken on weekends. "Canadian Rockies Trail Guide" (Patton/Robinson) will get you to the nice trails. An EARLY start every day makes exploring the Canadian Rockies very pleasant since most people come out after lunch.

 

[takesiteasy]

Vic, those look like great tips and resources. Good to get the scoop from a local. Thanks!

Iowahiker, thanks for that detailed, first-hand information. I've seen the campground data on the GNP website. That is a great feature. We know we are heading into a busy time, but that's the way it is this year. We will have fun no matter. I've seen your photos of your trip- good stuff!

 

[Boise]

TIE,,
If you are looking for a boondocks: ,Numa Falls is just minutes south of Lake Louise: picnic tables, river and outhouse. My profile pic was taken there last summer with hound named Lily.


Numa Creek Trail, Radium Hot Springs, BC, Canada
+1 250-347-9505
https://goo.gl/maps/nkR9MevQyxB2

 

[takesiteasy]

Boise, great tip. Nice camper and pooch too.

 

[iowahiker]

The first campground west of Vermilion Pass, highway 93, between Banff and Lake Louise, in Kootenay CNP did not take reservations on our last trip and was not full mid-week, mid-afternoon (Marble Canyon?). Another choice for exploring the south end of the parks.

 

[Vic Harder]

Best book for hiking in the Rockies, by far
https://www.amazon.com/Dont-Waste-Your-Canadian-Rockies/dp/1927462029/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1530743941&sr=8-1&keywords=dont+waste+your+time+in+the+canadian+rockies

 

[takesiteasy]

The first campground west of Vermilion Pass, highway 93, between Banff and Lake Louise, in Kootenay CNP did not take reservations on our last trip and was not full mid-week, mid-afternoon (Marble Canyon?). Another choice for exploring the south end of the parks.

Thanks for the info.

Best book for hiking in the Rockies, by far
https://www.amazon.com/Dont-Waste-Your-Canadian-Rockies/dp/1927462029/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1530743941&sr=8-1&keywords=dont+waste+your+time+in+the+canadian+rockies

That sounds like a good book but expensive. Our local library doesn't have it. Actually, all the books on the Canadian Rockies are checked out and have waiting lists. I guess lots of people here are planning to go there.