Gluing Yakima Tracks to roof

[badtoytrd]

I would really like to have the versatility of Yakima tracks on my roof but I am extremely leary to add additional holes to the roof. I work in the maritime world and have used 3M 5200 before and it is tenacious when it comes to grip. Can anyone see a reason why some VHB tape 5200 would NOT work in attaching Yakima tracks to the roof? I would mainly be using the tracks to mount solar panels.

 

[photohc]

I have used VHB to secure my solar brackets to the roof of my Hawk and over the last 3 years, it hasn't shown any signs of degradation. I recently made a change in my solar panels and removing the brackets took some elbow grease. I did manage to get them off with no damage to the roof. (I used a plastic credit card and alcohol.)

I don't think you would need to cover the entire length of the track. If you did and later wanted to remove, it may be very difficult.

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

My 2¢... If just for solar, you could use the system that AM Solar shows in their no drill tutorial. Eliminate the tracks and use VHB tape for the mounting feet, Dicor over the top of them.

If you’re putting anything else up on top, say canoes, kayaks, etc. I would probably use tracks and screw them down.

 

[Argonaut20]

I have been reading that some have used the 3M tape to glue the panels to the roof on RV's. I don't know what type of roof they have but there were no reports of PV panels blowing off the roof. I have never used the 3M tape so I can't tell whether the texture of the roof on an FWC or ATC would affect the bond strength. If you mount the Yakima tracks using screws and butyl tape under the mounts as well as dipping the screws in urethane sealant before diving them into the roof, the seal should be good.

 

[badtoytrd]

I have used VHB to secure my solar brackets to the roof of my Hawk and over the last 3 years, it hasn't shown any signs of degradation. I recently made a change in my solar panels and removing the brackets took some elbow grease. I did manage to get them off with no damage to the roof. (I used a plastic credit card and alcohol.)

I don't think you would need to cover the entire length of the track. If you did and later wanted to remove, it may be very difficult.

Thanks for the input. Which VHB did you use?

My 2¢... If just for solar, you could use the system that AM Solar shows in their no drill tutorial. Eliminate the tracks and use VHB tape for the mounting feet, Dicor over the top of them.

If you’re putting anything else up on top, say canoes, kayaks, etc. I would probably use tracks and screw them down.

I saw the AM Solar mounts but I like the idea of being able to add more later without needing to glue more mounts.

I have been reading that some have used the 3M tape to glue the panels to the roof on RV's. I don't know what type of roof they have but there were no reports of PV panels blowing off the roof. I have never used the 3M tape so I can't tell whether the texture of the roof on an FWC or ATC would affect the bond strength. If you mount the Yakima tracks using screws and butyl tape under the mounts as well as dipping the screws in urethane sealant before diving them into the roof, the seal should be good.

Yeah, I agree that it should be good but I hate relying on "should be good".

 

[rando]

The problem with using adhesive for the tracks it that you will only be bonding them to the very thin aluminium roof skin, and not to the framing of the roof. I assume the roof skin is glued/taped to the framing, but I don't know this, and don't know the strength of that bond. This is probably fine for just a solar panel, but if you only want to use these for solar, I wouldn't wast the money on the yakima tracks - just bond some feet for your panels as suggested above. If you were to use it for more than solar panels, I would be concerned that you would pull the skin off the framing.

If you screw the tracks to the roof, you are actually screwing through the roof skin into the roof framing, so you avoid these issues.

 

[badtoytrd]

The problem with using adhesive for the tracks it that you will only be bonding them to the very thin aluminium roof skin, and not to the framing of the roof. I assume the roof skin is glued/taped to the framing, but I don't know this, and don't know the strength of that bond. This is probably fine for just a solar panel, but if you only want to use these for solar, I wouldn't wast the money on the yakima tracks - just bond some feet for your panels as suggested above. If you were to use it for more than solar panels, I would be concerned that you would pull the skin off the framing.

If you screw the tracks to the roof, you are actually screwing through the roof skin into the roof framing, so you avoid these issues.

Excellent thoughts and exactly why I posted the question as I had not thought that. Thanks, Rando.

 

[nikonron]

I wouldn't have any problem with drilling and screwing into the frame. I don't think it will be difficult to get a water tight seal. Ron

 

[ntsqd]

Indeed, a ring of 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive/Sealant on the roof skin around each screw hole and a dab under the screw head has sealed our solar mount brackets for several years, and I see no sign of any change in that.

 

[pvstoy]

As I was reading this I had some thoughts and Rando addressed those concerns. On the one piece roofs there is bonding tape under the thin aluminum. If the long tracks were just attached I feel there would be leverage to pull that bond loose under the roof. I looked at my huge roof on the hawk flatbed and noticed a lot of looseness and wrinkles. I decided to go with full length Yakima tracks and have FWC do the install with a leak proof warranty. While I'm there I'll have some other stuff looked at.

 

[badtoytrd]

Thanks for all of the input. What all of you have said makes complete sense. I will just go the AM Solar route now and add the tracks later with screws if I deem it necessary.