rruff
Advanced Member
I'd probably make sure you don't exceed axle ratings.
Half ton truck payload how to increase it?
- Thread starter Boatbuilder79
- Start date
ottorogers
Senior Member
I’m rated for 1600 with my Tundra, we have 2200 with no issues now, we did extra springs, air bags, sway bar and E rated tires, everything is perfect nowVic Harder said:
I recall seeing that separating the air bags helped a lot, but I missed what you did since then to get it to "perfect"?ottorogers said:
Vic
ottorogers
Senior Member
yes separating the airbags DID helpVic Harder said:
Smokecreek1
Smokecreek1
Years ago, we had a similar type thread on this subject [let me look for it and will post it later] ,(at the time ) I had problems with the ride and reversed dump look of my 99 F1504x4/05 Granby combination (it was with in the weight limits for both). I also tried upgrading to helwig heavy duty springs, tire pressure (10ply m/s) and even added new air bags (that kept blowing out). Les Schwab could not even figure out the problem. In desperation. I went to my local Ford dealer, where one of the old mechanics suggested that I upgrade to 3/4 type springs/rear end and he suggested that I call a blacksmith shop that they use in Red Bluff, Ca (Moore's Blacksmith Shop) that specialized in up grading 1/2 ton pick ups. It costs me $500.00 at that time, and it was the best 500.00 I ever spent. No more problems & all I do is make sure that during my annual maint. check at the ford place, that they check them to make sure they tightened up if it is needed. I'm not a mechanic, but what ever they did, things sure work better since then. I don't know if Moore's Blacksmith shop is still there, but if you are with in driving range of Red Bluff, It might be worth a call. Hope this helps.
Smoke
Smoke
This is not about increasing payload but I think worth mentioning here. ..
Maintenance is always good but becomes important when weight increases due to overloading.
Ensure your brake system is functioning 100%. I not talking about aftermarket slotted rotors or ceramic pads but the standard stuff like rotor surface, free piston travel, caliper slider pins, hoses etc. And brake fluid - use a high heat fluid and keep it fresh. Current truck brake systems are much better than before but only if working properly.
Whatever you have for tires, make sure they are in good condition and inflated properly. Be prepared to replace them when they get old not just worn out. Rubber does deteriorate, especially in the sun.
As for driving, don't overdrive your brakes. Vehicles are far more capable of, and at, higher speeds than before. The general public knows it and so drives faster and closer (older drivers may remember slowing down for corners, going up hills etc.).
Just make sure you can stop.
my .02
Maintenance is always good but becomes important when weight increases due to overloading.
Ensure your brake system is functioning 100%. I not talking about aftermarket slotted rotors or ceramic pads but the standard stuff like rotor surface, free piston travel, caliper slider pins, hoses etc. And brake fluid - use a high heat fluid and keep it fresh. Current truck brake systems are much better than before but only if working properly.
Whatever you have for tires, make sure they are in good condition and inflated properly. Be prepared to replace them when they get old not just worn out. Rubber does deteriorate, especially in the sun.
As for driving, don't overdrive your brakes. Vehicles are far more capable of, and at, higher speeds than before. The general public knows it and so drives faster and closer (older drivers may remember slowing down for corners, going up hills etc.).
Just make sure you can stop.
my .02
+1 "Just make sure you can stop." And I will add the following:
1) How do you know you can stop? Have you tested it? Have you taken your fully loaded rig out on the kinds of roads you drive on and tried a panic stop under controlled (and safe) conditions?
2) It helps to be mechanically inclined to keep costs down, but I strongly recommend what David says above - that your brakes should receive loving care at least every two years. When I take my car to the track for some fast driving in controlled conditions, the organizers insist on a brake fluid change within the last 6 months!! As a rule of thumb, if your brake fluid is not clear or it has been longer than two years since a full flush, do it now.
1) How do you know you can stop? Have you tested it? Have you taken your fully loaded rig out on the kinds of roads you drive on and tried a panic stop under controlled (and safe) conditions?
2) It helps to be mechanically inclined to keep costs down, but I strongly recommend what David says above - that your brakes should receive loving care at least every two years. When I take my car to the track for some fast driving in controlled conditions, the organizers insist on a brake fluid change within the last 6 months!! As a rule of thumb, if your brake fluid is not clear or it has been longer than two years since a full flush, do it now.
CougarCouple
Senior Member
Hello boatbuilder79
I get you are asking, looking for ways to better travel with a maxed out rig. Not looking to change rigs. There are IMO very good ideas and suggestions on ways to help in your travels, in the responses. If you use a vehicle at its max limits, that's what it is nothing more or less. Would seem to me everything is going to wear faster, than just tooling around empty. I did not see where you mentioned how often or far you would drive loaded. I think that would play a big role in your situation. Would a larger payload vehicle do it easier, yes. Can you travel to you destinations a little over yes. Pick the suggestions you feel best with there is no wrong answer, you already know you are at your limits. Breaks, tires they are wear items.
Biggest problem is being legal, only an issue when something goes wrong.
You gunna be on the road, full time or traveling cross country I'd reconsider. Weekend jaunt to recreate go for it. Pleanty other people in the same situation. Trying to swing the odds in your favor, for safety and comfort is better than going on a wing and a prayer.
Also if you can travel w/o the water food beverages, fuel in the boat, until you get to or near your destination might help. Good thread I liked the read.
Russ
I get you are asking, looking for ways to better travel with a maxed out rig. Not looking to change rigs. There are IMO very good ideas and suggestions on ways to help in your travels, in the responses. If you use a vehicle at its max limits, that's what it is nothing more or less. Would seem to me everything is going to wear faster, than just tooling around empty. I did not see where you mentioned how often or far you would drive loaded. I think that would play a big role in your situation. Would a larger payload vehicle do it easier, yes. Can you travel to you destinations a little over yes. Pick the suggestions you feel best with there is no wrong answer, you already know you are at your limits. Breaks, tires they are wear items.
Biggest problem is being legal, only an issue when something goes wrong.
You gunna be on the road, full time or traveling cross country I'd reconsider. Weekend jaunt to recreate go for it. Pleanty other people in the same situation. Trying to swing the odds in your favor, for safety and comfort is better than going on a wing and a prayer.
Also if you can travel w/o the water food beverages, fuel in the boat, until you get to or near your destination might help. Good thread I liked the read.
Russ
ottorogers
Senior Member
i agree with this adviseVic Harder said:
Timothy McGowen
Senior Member
I have a 2016 F150 Supercab, Lariat, 4X4 (Not FX4) with 36 gallon gas tank, 2.7 L ecoboost and the 2.7L payload package and stock tires. Camper is a 2016 Hawk front dinette with heater, water heater, 130L 2 way fridge, batwing, cassette toilet, dual battery and solar.
Payload on the truck is rated at 1899 pounds. I don't have my weigh bill handy but the camper is approximately 1500 pounds dry.
The camper has never been off the truck since it was installed almost two years ago.
With the camper dry it drives, stops and handles fine. Wet, I do notice a little sway. It is minor and I have not bothered to make and upgrades to the truck. Airing the tires from the recommended 35 pounds to 45 psi seems to help. I have ordered new tires and will see if that helps the sway at all. I do need to re-weigh and will try to do that this week.
With your set up I think you should be fine. What tires do you have? They probably are light truck, E- rated tires. The Wranglers on mine do not have the standard labels or markings you would expect. I had to do some research and have the dealer help me figure that out.
Sorry I don't tow. I'm one of those guys you and your buddy laugh at. Hope this helps with some more practical, related experience.
BTW, I custom ordered my truck to max payload and MPG. As rated in the charts everyone is referencing it states payload of 2160. As built 1899. Options do matter. Many specs are based on regular cab/short bed models.
Payload on the truck is rated at 1899 pounds. I don't have my weigh bill handy but the camper is approximately 1500 pounds dry.
The camper has never been off the truck since it was installed almost two years ago.
With the camper dry it drives, stops and handles fine. Wet, I do notice a little sway. It is minor and I have not bothered to make and upgrades to the truck. Airing the tires from the recommended 35 pounds to 45 psi seems to help. I have ordered new tires and will see if that helps the sway at all. I do need to re-weigh and will try to do that this week.
With your set up I think you should be fine. What tires do you have? They probably are light truck, E- rated tires. The Wranglers on mine do not have the standard labels or markings you would expect. I had to do some research and have the dealer help me figure that out.
Sorry I don't tow. I'm one of those guys you and your buddy laugh at. Hope this helps with some more practical, related experience.
BTW, I custom ordered my truck to max payload and MPG. As rated in the charts everyone is referencing it states payload of 2160. As built 1899. Options do matter. Many specs are based on regular cab/short bed models.
ntsqd
Custom User Title
+eleventeen on flushing brake fluid every two years, MAX.
Just doing this will keep the hydraulic components much happier and they will live longer because of it. I bought a vehicle from the PNW that had silicone fluid in it. On the surface that seems like a great idea for a vehicle that sits in a high moisture environment. From first hand experience I can tell that it is not. Regular fluid absorbs moisture, which keeps it from pooling and corroding in ALL of the low spots in the system. Regular flushes remove the moisture. This is by design.
I had to replace a bunch of parts and flush the silicone fluid from the system. I built a vacuum fluid trap and used engine intake vacuum to first pull rubbing alcohol thru the whole system, and then several complete flushes with DOT 4 brake fluid.
In 1978 my grandfather bought a 1973 F-100 that he wanted to use to tow their 26' Airstream trailer. After a couple close calls and several failed rear axle wheel bearings he found a '74 F-250 in a nearby farmer's 'boneyard' and got all of the 3/4t front brakes and the 3/4t rear axle. He left the 1/2t springs under the truck, but used the 3/4t brakes & rear axle. That was the end of rear wheel bearing failures and the truck stopped very well considering.
"Hopping up" 1/2t systems just means that you're using them much closer to the outer edge of their design envelope. In doing this you are creating a vehicle that needs much more consistent and frequent service and inspection. For the sustained effort involved you may as well build and maintain a race car. Makes more sense to use 3/4t or even 1t components and use them in the middle of their design envelope.
Just doing this will keep the hydraulic components much happier and they will live longer because of it. I bought a vehicle from the PNW that had silicone fluid in it. On the surface that seems like a great idea for a vehicle that sits in a high moisture environment. From first hand experience I can tell that it is not. Regular fluid absorbs moisture, which keeps it from pooling and corroding in ALL of the low spots in the system. Regular flushes remove the moisture. This is by design.
I had to replace a bunch of parts and flush the silicone fluid from the system. I built a vacuum fluid trap and used engine intake vacuum to first pull rubbing alcohol thru the whole system, and then several complete flushes with DOT 4 brake fluid.
In 1978 my grandfather bought a 1973 F-100 that he wanted to use to tow their 26' Airstream trailer. After a couple close calls and several failed rear axle wheel bearings he found a '74 F-250 in a nearby farmer's 'boneyard' and got all of the 3/4t front brakes and the 3/4t rear axle. He left the 1/2t springs under the truck, but used the 3/4t brakes & rear axle. That was the end of rear wheel bearing failures and the truck stopped very well considering.
"Hopping up" 1/2t systems just means that you're using them much closer to the outer edge of their design envelope. In doing this you are creating a vehicle that needs much more consistent and frequent service and inspection. For the sustained effort involved you may as well build and maintain a race car. Makes more sense to use 3/4t or even 1t components and use them in the middle of their design envelope.
Squatch
Senior Member
TM you probably have c rated LT tires on a 1/2 ton. E's don't usually happen stock till 3/4 ton or more. Most 1/2 tons these days come with P metric passenger tires. If they don't say LT as part of the tire size that's what they are. Going up to E's will make a huge difference in sway.
Timothy McGowen
Senior Member
Thanks. I was wondering since I asked when I got the truck. They said they were E rated since I ordered the payload package. Live and learn.Squatch said:
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