Hat Tossed In

[jrfromafar]

Well I've taken the plunge. Sold my beloved 14' fiberglass (Burro) trailer, bought a 2014 Ford F250 4x4 Super Cab with added leaf spring (camper package) and also bought a '72 Alaskan CO. It's not perfect, but hopefully there won't be an issue I cannot solve. Had a lot of great times in my little trailer but got frustrated with limited mobility. Installed tie downs today - tomorrow is the day I load 'er up.

 

[Buckwheat]

Welcome

 

[ski3pin]

Pretty cool and welcome!

 

[alano]

Outstanding! Where are you going first?

Alan

 

[highz]

Sweet! Welcome to the forum.

 

[Mike S.]

Welcome to the Alaskan group. Good information and answers to your questions here.

 

[jrfromafar]

Thanks for the welcome! Got her loaded - wife isn't happy with me putting an old camper on a new pickup but hey - I can only do what I can do - if I wait for a new or newer one I may never go anywhere! As it is, going up to Sequoia & Kings Canyon - and the national forests right in my back yard. Then soon the Big Sur coast. Of course the ultimate for me would be a trip to Alaska but that may need to wait til next year. By then, maybe I'll find a later unit.

Photo file was too big to upload so here's a link:

Photo May 20, 11 30 04 AM.jpg

 

[verynice]

Might possibly want to attach some 2x4s to the bottom so you don't ruin the truck roof, it looks awfully close...Nice looking oldy

 

[Buckwheat]

You may also not want to to much downward pressure on those jack brackets that you are using for tie downs. This may cause the bottom section to seperate you will be able to see that at the bottom section of the back door were the opening will be wider at the top than the bottom. If that is how you want to tie it down I would recommend install something between the truck rail and the bottom of the camper to help suport it.

 

[jrfromafar]

VN: good advice. Right now there is a little over an inch clearance - do you think another 1 1/2 (2x4) would be enough?

BW: am not sure what you mean. How would you recommend doing this?

edited: oh ok, bottom of camper that is above the truck rail. I was thinking the bottom being down in the bed of the pickup. Got it -

Thanks for advice. This is a new adventure for me.

 

[jrfromafar]

I am also wondering how to solve the propane tank issue besides mounting a tank on the back of the camper. I was hoping there would be room in the left wheel well but I only have 7" width. Any such thing as a 6" wide rectangle propane tank?

 

[verynice]

You just screw them in cross ways on the BOTTOM of the camper opposite direction of the bed ribs. Between bedfloor and camper, maybe 4 2x4s. BTW, I am jealous, there are so many great spots in your part of the state.

 

[Rusty]

Get your 2x4's installed under the camper on the bed...then measure the distance from the bed rail to the camper and make a couple shims to fit between the camper and the rails. Make sure you take your measurement without any pressure from your tie-downs.

the camper is constructed of 1/2" plywood held together by finish nails and screws.....it wasn't designed for torquing down to the truck.

I've got a 2003 F250 crew with a 1970 NCO....painted to match the truck....so the wifee appreciated the antiquity and the color....all in good time

an alternative shim to the bed of the truck would be two layers of good redwood plywood screwed to the bottom of the camper with a strip of rubber inner tube on the bottom (anti-skid)

you need air space under the camper so the fir plywood bottom of the camper won't rot...the redwood ply is treated so it won't rot.

Bon Voyage

there are smaller propane tanks available...consider installing a horizontal under the bed and quick coupling it to the camper

 

[jrfromafar]

Just got finished raising my camper another 1 1/2" and put blocks under the tie down brackets onto the truck bed rails - a distance of 4" and yes, the door was pulled apart maybe 5/8" enough so the latch didn't work. Now it works fine. I can't say the blocks look very good -right now it looks like The Grapes of Wrath (lol) but I found out where I can get rubber bumpers for trucks - they wlll do a better job & look nice(er).

I can hear my wife now - she's going to say "you haven't had that truck for over two weeks and already you're using duct tape" !!

 

[jrfromafar]

I am thinking that no doubt a camper pulled with tie downs so the door is not square - that can affect the raising / lowering of the top unit.

 

[jrfromafar]

VN & R: typically for me the right way to do something doesn't resonate with me - I did this block fix all wrong - will have to re do it maybe with rubber truck dock bumper blocks mounted to a piece of plywood or sheet metal that I can attach to the bottom of the camper as you suggested.

The dock bumpers are $10.00 each, and I cut them in half so I only need two. Or I'll just use 2x4 & paint them. Anything is better than my first fix

 

[jrfromafar]

BTW, I am jealous, there are so many great spots in your part of the state.

Yes there are - I am closest to Sequoia & Kings Canyon - but so many other places are a long ways away !

 

[Rusty]

maybe you could change your sig picture to the duct tape specialist, "Red Green"

keep in mind...the tiedowns, when used on other campers are used to torque them down to the bed...you'll be using them to "snug" it in and keep it from falling off....they were designed to be bolted down to the bed through the floor

"rubber truck dock bumper blocks"...try saying that fast ten times.....

 

[jrfromafar]

Duct table & baling wire - it'll fix just about anything .... outside of Congress...

I am surprised - my wife didn't say a word. Guess my fix wasn't as bad as I thought. I'll let it stay 4 now

 

[jrfromafar]

Just returned from first trip with camper. Besides a few issues with the camper, I am hooked. Just kept thinking, 'what's better than this?'

Had an issue with the hydraulic pump - didn't bring enough hydraulic jack fluid with me so had to go 40 miles RT to an auto parts house. Glad I made the trip & didn't listen to a local yokel that told me brake fluid will do the same job.

Then I wasn't getting any lift from each pump. Decided to try a few things - one which resulted in a big air bubble (burp??) coming out of the top. After that it worked flawlessly. Thought of posting this experience, and possibly get some input on bleeding a hydraulic system. Also, when traveling, I always tighten the pressure valve. Is this proper?

Also I have an issue with my Wedgewood 3 burner stove. Hardly any pressure - and no adjustment, either on (minimal pressure) or off. Tomorrow I'll do some troubleshooting (new propane regulator) but my gut feeling is telling me this stove ('72) doesn't work with pressure like a regular propane stove. I also smell propane when the tank is turned on - so I turned it off when I wasn't using it.

Any fix it ideas?