Hawk length for standard bed Tundra

[oceanminded]

I just got a new to me 2018 Hawk to put in my 2017 Tundra double cab with the 6.5 ft bed. I got the eyebolts and electrical done and have yet to put in my truck. I noticed the Hawk length is 84” including approx 3” for the bump stops and backing on the front of the camper. My bed length measures 78” to the rear lip. Is it normal for the camper to stick out 6” or do I need to cut bump stops down?
Thanks for any advice.

 

[PaulT]

My 2014 Hawk overhangs the rear of my 2010 Tundra DC by about that much. Was installed by FWC in a parking lot in southern Oregon without shortening the bump stops.

Paul

 

[astropuppy]

About the same on my 2011. I believe the bed is technically 6'7". Do you have a Hawk made for a Tundra? Tundra's have high bed rails.

 

[oceanminded]

No I believe it was made for a Dodge. My plan is to follow others recommendation to use a stall mat to elevate enough to clear my bed rails.

 

[AWG_Pics]

Our December 2019 Hawk fits our 2019 Tundra 6.5' bed with a few inches overhang. It was built for our Tundra and installed by FWC near Portland about 14 months ago.

 

[Vic Harder]

you could shorten the bump stops ... as long as there is some clearance between the camper and the top rail of the truck's bed.

 

[Wallowa]

About the same on my 2011. I believe the bed is technically 6'7". Do you have a Hawk made for a Tundra? Tundra's have high bed rails.


Slight correction...his Tundra probably does have "high" [not certain what constitute high] but my '05 Tundra AC, standard bed has lower than normal bed rails when compared to other year Tundra trucks.

I removed tailgate and inserted '16 Hawk, back of Hawk extends slightly beyond the bed but does not extend beyond stock rear bumper and that is with standard bumpers on front of Hawk....FYI the Hawk "box" clears the wheel wells inside the bed by about 1/2" on either side...perfect.

Phil

 

[oceanminded]

Thanks guys, sounds like it will be similar to most others, I’ll trim down bump stops if need be. Bed depth is 22 3/4”, Hawk is 22 3/4” so I’m planning to do stall mat or build up with wood like FWC does

 

[AWG_Pics]

Thanks guys, sounds like it will be similar to most others, I’ll trim down bump stops if need be. Bed depth is 22 3/4”, Hawk is 22 3/4” so I’m planning to do stall mat or build up with wood like FWC does

Sounds like you have it figured out. One benefit to the slight overhang of the camper is the fresh water spigot on the back of the camper does not get water into the bed when you use it to wash your hands or rinse coffee cups.

 

[astropuppy]

I read somewhere about using polystyrene foam instead of a stall mat. Reason given was weight.

Wallowa is correct about bed height of the early - pre 07 - gen 1 Tundras having a shorter bed rails.

Sounds like you have a handle on it.

 

[PaulT]

The recycled tire horse stall mats can be as much as 100 lbs each. Check in person before ordering. Awkward to handle & maneuver into and out of the truck unless the camper is always mounted.
We use them in our horse stalls. Horse moves them far too easily if you sloped the stall to drain water. We have to wrestle them back into position each time stall is cleaned. Have lasted for 25 years so far.
The good thing is that the “camper stall” wouldn’t need frequent cleaning.

Paul

ps. We went with LineX in the truck bed

 

[Wallowa]

Just the way we did it....LineX and no mats...no mats since we did not want to trap water against the Tundra bed or the Hawk and the LineX prevents any movement within in the bed even if turnbuckles should loosen [which they don't with lock nuts]...

 

[Davehwa]

I was going to trim the bump stops down for a better fit in an F-150, glad I didn’t....

....because I totaled the truck in a whiteout caused by a gust of wind and snow coming off the trees. Plowed into a Silverado at a speed delta of about 20-25mph.

The camper was not damaged. One of the turnbuckle hooks was stretched out, that’s all.

I’d chalk that up to the quality of the build. The Hawks’ aluminum frame clearly helped. But I’m certain that the bump stops played a big role in dissipating the force of impact.

So yesterday I slid the camper into our new truck (an immaculate ‘01 F-250 7.3 PSD) and the bed is a little longer. If I trimmed the stops I could leave the tailgate up. I was tempted but after my previous experience, no.

They’re on there for a reason, I figure.

 

[Taku]

I don't have bump stops on our Ocelot. I use minicell foam pads that I use sticky velcro to the top edge of the bed then the camper rests against them. Been that way for 100K+ miles and no issues. Also use a rubber mat and that helps keep the camper in place. Has been on the truck (05 Tundra) for eight years and finally took it off last summer and repainted the plywood. the only place the plywood really needed new paint was along the back where it is exposed at the rear of the camper. No sign of rot or even much paint worn off.

 

[Wallowa]

I was going to trim the bump stops down for a better fit in an F-150, glad I didn’t....

....because I totaled the truck in a whiteout caused by a gust of wind and snow coming off the trees. Plowed into a Silverado at a speed delta of about 20-25mph.

The camper was not damaged. One of the turnbuckle hooks was stretched out, that’s all.

I’d chalk that up to the quality of the build. The Hawks’ aluminum frame clearly helped. But I’m certain that the bump stops played a big role in dissipating the force of impact.

So yesterday I slid the camper into our new truck (an immaculate ‘01 F-250 7.3 PSD) and the bed is a little longer. If I trimmed the stops I could leave the tailgate up. I was tempted but after my previous experience, no.

They’re on there for a reason, I figure.

Just how I reasoned it, but tailgate on my Tundra weighed a ton and served no purpose with the Hawk "permanently" mounted...took it off...

 

[oceanminded]

Thanks guys, got it done today. Ended up using DuPont 2” high load foam board rated at 60 psi. Lightweight at 12 lbs, no water absorption, R-10 insulation value and may give just a little cushion off road. Gave me 1 3/8” clearance above bed rails, time will tell if it compresses and settles at all. Previous owner used Home Depot R-tech rated at 15 psi, it compressed 3/8” at the camper cross braces after 2 years. Cut a piece of 2” aluminum angle, painted black and glued to foam end to cover the blue foam from the rear.

 

[oceanminded]

I did not want to cut bump stops down so it does stick out a little but figured they are there for a reason. Thanks again for all the help on this site.