Hawk Shell - Front Dinette

super doody

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 2, 2012
Messages
638
Location
San Mateo Coast
Can someone confirm if the front dinette is an available option for a Hawk Shell model? It's not listed as an available option. Based on some old posts, it looks like there was at least two members who sold their 2013 Hawk Shell with Front Dinette option in late 2013.

Thanks.

Jim
 
It was in 2013 as the used shell I purchased had one. Send Stan and email and ask. Are you going to do a full build or minimal? If a full build you do need to set in both a front and side dinette to see what you like. I was sure I wanted the front until the wife and I set in both. More floor room in the side dinette.
 
billharr said:
It was in 2013 as the used shell I purchased had one. Send Stan and email and ask. Are you going to do a full build or minimal? If a full build you do need to set in both a front and side dinette to see what you like. I was sure I wanted the front until the wife and I set in both. More floor room in the side dinette.
The main reason for the front dinette is sleeping quarters for the little one. I could either remove the table and put in a pack n play like this http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/gallery/image/12023-packnplay/ (Bill, I think this is the camper you bought) or use fold over bed. I can put cabinets in both sides and put a screen in the middle so my daughter can move around all she wants without falling off the bed.

I'm hoping that if FWC doesn't offer this option, that they can sell me all the cushions and seat so I can install it myself which seems really straight forward.

Here are the options I want to get:
Furnace
roof rack tracks
Aux battery system (beside the wiring, seems like a pretty straight forward aftermarket install. If that is the case, I can adde this myself)
Solar plug

I'm on the fence for the these options:
Rear and side lights
extra roof vent

Please let me know what you guys think. My thought is I can start out simple and if desired I can build out the camper in the future.
 
When we bought our Hawk shell last July (2014) we were told by Denny at FWC Jackson,WY that the front dinette was no longer an option on the shell. So we got it without and built in our own. I'll be writing up the build soon.
 
Yes that is the camper I bought. Note on fold over seats FWC builds then bullet proof, see picture below back is made out of 1x2 alum tube and only 2" of foam above. Also there is a Large brace across the front to support the table, sorry I do not have a picture of it and I did cut it apart to use on my build.



camper+inside+before+.jpg
you can see brace under table

Seat back I have to narrow for side dinette.
med_gallery_1903_712_107604.jpg
 
RnK said:
When we bought our Hawk shell last July (2014) we were told by Denny at FWC Jackson,WY that the front dinette was no longer an option on the shell. So we got it without and built in our own. I'll be writing up the build soon.
Thank RnK. I have 2006 Tundra Dcab. If you don't mind me asking, what option did your shell come with. When you built your front dinette, did you source the parts from FWC? Look forward to seeing your write up.
 
Jim, here is a link to our first post that shows our list of options - http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/9196-new-hawk/page-2#entry102478

Here's a quick look at the dinette. We did not order from FWC. We custom built the seats to fit our needs, one of which was to be able to turn it lengthwise and kick back in the camper if the weather was bad. I'll write the whole build up with pictures within the week - I hope!



Build20.jpg
Build21.jpg
Build22.jpg
 
Looks great RnK! Really like the fact that you can put your feet up on your dinette. Seems like a build-yourself front dinette with storage would be pretty straight forward and probably a lot cheaper than the FWC options if they still offered it.

It looks like you added some additional length to the slide out portion? Did you relocate the thermostat ?

Are there any options you wish you would've gotten or any options that you realize you didn't need?

Sorry, last question (I hope) where do you put your cooler/frig?

Thanks,

Jim

RnK said:
Jim, here is a link to our first post that shows our list of options - http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/9196-new-hawk/page-2#entry102478

Here's a quick look at the dinette. We did not order from FWC. We custom built the seats to fit our needs, one of which was to be able to turn it lengthwise and kick back in the camper if the weather was bad. I'll write the whole build up with pictures within the week - I hope!



attachicon.gif
Build20.jpg
attachicon.gif
Build21.jpg
attachicon.gif
Build22.jpg
 
super doody said:
Looks great RnK! Really like the fact that you can put your feet up on your dinette. Seems like a build-yourself front dinette with storage would be pretty straight forward and probably a lot cheaper than the FWC options if they still offered it.

It looks like you added some additional length to the slide out portion? Did you relocate the thermostat ?

Are there any options you wish you would've gotten or any options that you realize you didn't need?

Sorry, last question (I hope) where do you put your cooler/frig?

Thanks,

Jim
So far we are very happy with the decision to get a shell and build it out. That said, we've had little chance to try it out since the mods were completed. We are actually headed out tomorrow to give it a test run with the latest addition - homemade thermal pack (write-up on that to follow very soon also).
We did actually buy a new thermostat, as the one that came with it would only go down to 45 deg.(I think). The new one is bigger and needed to be moved to accommodate the rail extension you noticed. That extension is backing for the plywood seatback that leans against it when you're sitting, facing the table. When you're sitting longitudinally the seatback leans against the bed rail. Relocating the thermostat was pretty easy. On the advice of our dealer, we ordered our shell with the interior skin screwed on wherever possible to allow us to unscrew it and peek behind to see where the aluminum framing is. That has been helpful more than once, along with these pictures of typical framing: http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/7050-stan-question-about-fwc-frame-weldment/
We are happy with the options we ordered. Some we haven't used yet (like the rear wall steps) but think we should have for the future. Everybody's needs are different - we wanted it pretty basic, i.e. no built-in stove, no built-in water and for now, just a cooler. We have a one burner Coleman we can use inside to make coffee but, aside from that, we want to do all of our cooking outside if possible. We removed the back seats in our Dbl Cab Tundra (a ton of extra room, even if you just remove one) and keep the cooler in there.
If I remember to take my laptop, I may get the build written up while we're on this little jaunt. If not, soon after I return.
I'm happy to answer questions, Jim. This forum has been such a help to us along the way I'm pleased to be able to give something back.
 
RnK,

Thanks for the advice on the screw-on skin options. I would definitely go with that option. I've been going back and fourth on which options to get or if I should just get a fully load Hawk. Either way, it would be a lot bigger and nicer than Eagle shell I use to have. Have a great trip and thanks again for your help.

Jim
RnK said:
So far we are very happy with the decision to get a shell and build it out. That said, we've had little chance to try it out since the mods were completed. We are actually headed out tomorrow to give it a test run with the latest addition - homemade thermal pack (write-up on that to follow very soon also).
We did actually buy a new thermostat, as the one that came with it would only go down to 45 deg.(I think). The new one is bigger and needed to be moved to accommodate the rail extension you noticed. That extension is backing for the plywood seatback that leans against it when you're sitting, facing the table. When you're sitting longitudinally the seatback leans against the bed rail. Relocating the thermostat was pretty easy. On the advice of our dealer, we ordered our shell with the interior skin screwed on wherever possible to allow us to unscrew it and peek behind to see where the aluminum framing is. That has been helpful more than once, along with these pictures of typical framing: http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/7050-stan-question-about-fwc-frame-weldment/
We are happy with the options we ordered. Some we haven't used yet (like the rear wall steps) but think we should have for the future. Everybody's needs are different - we wanted it pretty basic, i.e. no built-in stove, no built-in water and for now, just a cooler. We have a one burner Coleman we can use inside to make coffee but, aside from that, we want to do all of our cooking outside if possible. We removed the back seats in our Dbl Cab Tundra (a ton of extra room, even if you just remove one) and keep the cooler in there.
If I remember to take my laptop, I may get the build written up while we're on this little jaunt. If not, soon after I return.
I'm happy to answer questions, Jim. This forum has been such a help to us along the way I'm pleased to be able to give something back.
 
SuperDoody

Buy two solar plugs - one on roof and one on back wall.
If you add a compressor fridge you will need at least one 100 watt panel on the roof.
 
The 110l compressor fridge consumes about 4 amps. If it runs for 1/3 the time, that is 8 hours/day or 32 amp hours/day.
In full sunlight directly overhead, the 100 watt panel produces about 6 amps. Since we don't have clear skies all day and the sun is at an angle most of the time, assume that we get half that or 3 amps for 12 hrs/ day. 3 * 12 => 36 amp hrs/day or just enough to run the fridge all day and provide a couple of amp hours to run the lights, water pump & furnace fan.

I just got a Renogy bendable 100 watt panel. With clear skies, the roof mount was producing 1.1 amps at 02:00pm. Plugging in the Renogy, aiming and tilting to receive straight on rays in Hillsboro, OR at ~45 deg latitude in December ran the total to 5.7 amps which means the portable unit was a huge improvement. Two 100 watt panels were giving me almost the same as one panel at high noon in early August with clear skies.

Adding a second solar panel that you can keep aimed at the sun while at camp could give you upwards of 6 * 12 or 72 ah per day. The second panel is definitely worthwhile. IMHO, of course.

Paul
 
Thanks for the conformation on the solar plugs guys. I was thinking for ease of installation (no vents required) and portability, a truck fridge or Engel would work well. I will definitely add solar down the road.

I really like the weight of stick and peel panels but I'm concern about their back panel temperatures and decreased efficiency.
 
Super, I have had no heat probs with our Renology 100 watt glued to the roof. You won,t have any efficiency probs with the Engle because it only draws 2.5 amps. cycling lowers the averages to 1.5 .
No experience with Truck fridge though I have heard good things about it.
 

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