"We're fvkt!!"
My true story of, if not horror then at least serious anxiety during a truck-camping-travel adventure.
I guess it's also kind of a trip report, so bear with my very long story...or not – just look at the pictures.
The year was 1995, early June it was -- June because we had to wait for one of the 3 of us to be done with his community college teaching job for the year. We were headed to remote, little-visited,
Smith Creek Canyon on the east side of the Snake Range in extreme-eastern Nevada, about 20 miles north of 50/6, accessed (for the first 25 miles) by a good-quality graded gravel road that
takes off from US 50/6 in Nevada then crosses over into Utah for most of its route north, parallel to the NV/UT border.
View attachment 11728
Taking off the this gravel county road, the Smith Creek road then crosses back into NV to head up Smith Creek Canyon along the creek, the valley walls rising up to limestone cliffs. It was late spring, the valley floor was green, yucca were in bloom.
We were 3 guys in two Toyota/Nissan 4x4 pickups with canopies/caps. Since it was spring, the creek was running pretty heavy, and there were several fords required as the road crossed back and forth. The next-to-the-last stream-crossing wasn't a ford; the stream went through a big culvert -- maybe 20 feet long and 3+ feet diameter, so it was a flat crossing on dirt.
If this was a movie, one of the characters would have said at this crossing, "Man, I sure am glad this culvert is here!" (cue ominous music).
We spent a couple of nights camped at the end of the road, near the edge of a wilderness area. We did a great hike up the canyon, one with many stream-wades as the trail (a former jeep trail at first), constrained by the narrow canyon's steep walls, wound back and forth across the creek. But since it was sunny and warm we didn't mind the wading.
Sunny and warm...so there was a lot of snow melt. In fact, on the second night the creek rose enough that it almost touched the bag of the guy who was sleeping next to it. During that night around the campfire we thought we heard boulders shifting/rolling somewhere nearby downstream, moving under the force of the spring flood. (cue more ominous music)
Our trip out began with this stream ford, Jim leading in his truck, the ford deeper than it had been on the trip in...(more ominous music)
:
We went a couple hundred yards further, round the bend to the culvert-crossing...that is -- (cue "Psycho"-shower-scene-like shreak-music)-- where the culvert had been!
That big culvert had been completely washed out, away, downstream! That had been the “boulder” noise we’d heard the night before!
"We're fvkt!!", Jim exclaimed, as we got out of our rigs to gape -- shocked -- at the sight! It was a >4-foot drop with straight-walled sides down to the stream -- no way to ford this former culvert-crossing.
We wandered downstream a bit – found the big culvert where it had been carried almost 50 feet from where it was supposed to be, walked down further and proceeded to try to build a ford in a low-banked spot. But every rock and boulder that we threw into the stream – those small enough that we could lift or even roll – was immediately carried away by the force of the water. The canyon walls came in next to the stream, so there was no way to go very far upstream or down that would have led “out”. No way to drive out without crossing at the former-culvert spot, which our trucks couldn't do. We were indeed “fvkt”!!
So, what to do?!?! We realized that we could walk out to “civilization”…maybe take a bus home… but neither Jim nor I considered abandoning our rigs an acceptable option. (Larry, passenger, didn't have that concern -- lucky him.
)
Jim decided that he would ride his mt bike down to the main road, find someone...see what they might suggest, get help somehow. With some old climbing rope we put Jim (with bike) on belay to get across the rushing stream, after that he was on his own as he rode down the canyon. (He later told us that at another crossing downstream he had been knocked off his feet by the water and almost lost the bike!)
A few hours later Jim returned with, as it turned out, the perfect guy that he could have found – a Mr. King who was a deputy sheriff (in Utah’s Millard County) as well as an employee at Great Basin National Park – a guy with the right connections. He surveyed the situation and told us to sit tight where we were overnight, that he’s send some help up the next day. I was still mighty worried that night about what was going to happen with my truck.
Next morning we saw coming up the road on the other side of the creek a big front-end loader with two guys from the Millard Co (UT) road dept., who regularly work on the main gravel road on the Utah side, though we were in Nevada. Their plan was to use the loader to scoop out the banks of the stream where the road crossed to make it a ford.
But before they would do anything they threw across the stream a clipboard with a statement for us to sign absolving them of any responsibility if the USFS got mad about someone doing unauthorized road/stream work in the national forest. While we were surprised and a little concerned by this legal angle, it was a reasonable request – and really, what choice did we have?
So, we signed the waiver, threw it back across the stream and the front-end loader went to work. In literally a few seconds – a minute at most– the loader had carved out a ford. But the water was still too deep and too fast to ford in our light-weight rigs without serious risk of being swept away by the flood. So, using a long chain that I happened to have in my truck, the loader towed us across; We were saved!
The water actually surged clear over the windshield!! Being somewhat clueless about really-deep fords I didn’t think about the possibility of sucking water into my engine while the hood was submerged, so I had the engine still running at this point.
But, apparently, no water got sucked in anyway. The two guys with the loader towed us through one more deeply-flooded ford, too.
We were so relieved and very grateful! We offered these Millard Co road workers a case of beer for their trouble, but they declined – either because they were on duty or (we assumed) because they were devout Mormons. So, we relaxed with a beer (or a few) for a while, then headed south towards the UT/NV border and the wonderful/funky Border Inn.
Funny thing: a few miles south on that main gravel road we came upon one of the road crew – the younger of the two, by himself this time. He walked over to us and said, “Do you guys have any herb?" (Hmmm…"no thanks" to beer, but “herb” is OK with his religion/job?…or maybe he was able to ask now because his boss wasn't around). Well, we didn’t have any herb (surprisingly), so we said, “No, sorry, but thanks again”, and we were on our way again.
For several months afterward I had the dread that I’d get an angry/official/legal letter from the USFS about the unauthorized “procedure” that had been done to Smith Creek….but we never did. Two years later I revisited the same spot, and there is still no culvert – just the deep ford cut by the Millard Co Road Dept – to rescue us, a crossing which is actually quite ford-able if not during spring flood.
MarkBC, on our last trip into the Great Basin I told the Lady about your story here. This one really captures the terrain and local folks that you meet out there. It's a good one!