Hot water Heater

[longhorn1]

While on our recent trip I turned the hot water heater on for about 20 minutes, and once the water was hot for dishes turned it off. When I walked around the camper I observed a few drops of water dripping from the bottom of the panel. I opened the panel and saw a few drops from the relief vent. Moisture was also observed inside the clear plastic sleeve on the brown wire and the foam pad that has the wording had some water behind it. I would assume the relief dripping is normal.

My concern is with the moisture trapped in the wire connector sleeve and the foam with moisture behind it, enough that you can squeeze a drop or two from around one of the wires and at the bottom. I have never seen this before and haven't opened the panel before that I can remember because everything works fine. Thanks for any input. jd

 

[Stalking Light]

I've used my hot water heater a number of times and never noticed anything coming out of the relief valve. Maybe it is altitude related and boiling water is the culprit?

 

[elmo_4_vt]

There was a thread on here a little while back about he tanks over pressurizing due to it getting too hot. Someone posted up a link for an adjustable thermostat from Atwood that "should" fix the issue. I've only turned mine on once and haven't seen this issue yet, but apparently it's common. Good luck.

Don

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[Old Crow]

While on our recent trip I turned the hot water heater on for about 20 minutes, and once the water was hot for dishes turned it off. When I walked around the camper I observed a few drops of water dripping from the bottom of the panel. I opened the panel and saw a few drops from the relief vent. Moisture was also observed inside the clear plastic sleeve on the brown wire and the foam pad that has the wording had some water behind it. I would assume the relief dripping is normal.

My concern is with the moisture trapped in the wire connector sleeve and the foam with moisture behind it, enough that you can squeeze a drop or two from around one of the wires and at the bottom. I have never seen this before and haven't opened the panel before that I can remember because everything works fine. Thanks for any input. jd

According to this Atwood water-heater troubleshooting manual, it's very common for the pressure-relief valve to weep but you may be able to reduce or eliminate it by following the procedure to re-establish the air-gap in the tank. (Search the document for 'weep' or scroll down until you see the section on the Thermostat to get started).

I'd agree with your concern for the water on the wires and foam. You might dry things out and perhaps use an electrical contact spray on the wiring connectors, then figure out how to waterproof the connections as best you can. I'd probably use a so-called 'liquid electrical tape' or perhaps some strategic dabs of silicone-seal for that. Others may have better suggestions.

I'd also try to find a fitting or fittings to extend the pressure-relief valve fitting down past the electrical connections and the foam covering the thermostat. I did a couple of quick searches for that here on WTW and didn't find anything but wouldn't be surprised to see someone has done it.

-Old Crow

PS- I believe the post Don mentioned regarding the adjustable thermostat is post 12 in this thread discussing concerns about possible scalding.

 

[longhorn1]

After having spoken with the manufacturer, they said the problem was not having the air pocket and they told me how to make sure that was there when I fill the water tank.

They also shared with me the steps for draining the tank and cleaning the tank, all spelled out in the manual. However, due to the placement of the white plastic drain plug, I was unable to get anything to fit back in there and was unable to get room to provide any leverage to turn the plug. They also said that I needed to remove the relief valve so I could pour a vinegar/water mix into the tank from the top.

What is the secret to get these off? I don't want to force anything. I couldn't budge either.


The white drain plug is in behind the copper line.

 

[Ronanmd1]

Longhorn - I use a 1/2 inch shallow socket on a long wobble extension. That allows me to loosen it off and then unscrew with my fingers.

 

[longhorn1]

Ronanmd1 - Thanks. How about get the brass relief fitting off?

jd

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[Wallowa]

Curious...why the vinegar/water? Problem with hard water deposits?

Phil

 

[Ronanmd1]

Not sure about the brass relief - I have never taken that off...

 

[longhorn1]

We have hard water. I do have a small water softener which helps. Phil, vinegar will remove any deposits, 1/4 vinegar to the water mix. Ronanmd1, how do you clean the tank. Mfg. said to remove drain plug to empty, re-install, remove relief valve, flush out water heater tank, and then drain and replace the plug and relief valve. If you only remove the drain plug how do you clean and flush the tank?

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[Ronanmd1]

Longhorn - never have. I fill and bleach at the beginning of the season. Flush out the system 3 times and then just fill/empty as needed. Never completely emptied out the heater - no problems so far

 

[Old Crow]

I wonder if the following Camco kit would work for the drain plug. I believe its also available on Amazon as a Camco 11633 kit. You might want to read reviews and watch the video on the Camping World site.

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/rv-water-heater-drain-plug-kit/70661

-Old Crow

PS - I'm on the road and have poor connectivity and little time so have not looked at details like thread sizes etc. but do see comments about Atwoods.

PPS- you might also look into replacing the drain plug with a petcock if you want to drain more often.

 

[Wallowa]

I finally got around to testing the By-Pass method of draining the water out of the hot water heater. First I drained the 20 gal tank out the drain on the rear of the Hawk. I did this with the hot water faucet opened [previously I had filled the 6 gallon heater tank]. When water stopped flowing out the drain; I closed the hot water faucet and opened the By-Pass valve in the line from the hot water tank to the 20 gal storage tank. Not a lot of anything happened until I again opened the hot water faucet [venting that line] in the sink and then a rush of water was heard into the storage tank and followed by water again coming out the external rear drain valve.

Soooo, no more removing the teflon plug [15/16" hex] from the outside of the heater to drain the hot water tank; I will use the By-Pass valve and live with the two gallons of water Atwood says will remain in the 6 gallon hot water tank [heck, the By-Pass method may even drain that 2 gals, I have no way of knowing].

Phil

 

[longhorn1]

Phil, depending on the type of water, removing the plug and flushing out residue might still be a good idea. Opening the hot water faucet to vent is something new. I just received the drain plug kit and as soon as the weather warms will pull the old and install the new one with tephlon tape. Great find on opening the hot water to vent. Jd

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[longhorn1]

I wonder if the following Camco kit would work for the drain plug. I believe its also available on Amazon as a Camco 11633 kit. You might want to read reviews and watch the video on the Camping World site.

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/rv-water-heater-drain-plug-kit/70661

-Old Crow

PS - I'm on the road and have poor connectivity and little time so have not looked at details like thread sizes etc. but do see comments about Atwoods.

PPS- you might also look into replacing the drain plug with a petcock if you want to drain more often.

Old Crow, After watching the video, I went and purchased the Camco Drain plug kit from Camping World. I went out to replace the cap and funny thing, I couldn't get the wrench on the plug at all. The video looked just like the water heater in our camper. Watched the video 2 more times and went back out to the camper. No way to get the wrench on the plug cap. Now have to go buy the socket wrenchs again and wait for the shallow socket to come in at Lowes. It was a great idea. Thanks for the post. Amazing how things should be simple but are a nightmare. jd

 

[Old Crow]

Old Crow, After watching the video, I went and purchased the Camco Drain plug kit from Camping World. I went out to replace the cap and funny thing, I couldn't get the wrench on the plug at all. The video looked just like the water heater in our camper. Watched the video 2 more times and went back out to the camper. No way to get the wrench on the plug cap. Now have to go buy the socket wrenchs again and wait for the shallow socket to come in at Lowes. It was a great idea. Thanks for the post. Amazing how things should be simple but are a nightmare. jd

Thanks for posting your experience, jd. I can't imagine what's going on. The wrench is 15/16 on one end and 7/8 on the other and I see Wallowa says in post 13 that the plug is a 15/16" one. I can only think the plug size (the hex size) must vary by year or model. What size socket are you buying?

 

[longhorn1]

The Cameo comes with 2 1/2" with 7/8" heads. I also bought 2 Atwood 1/2" plugs with the 15/16" heads like the original. Couldn't even get the tool in there. I took all my socket parts back for credit. I did order a shallow 15/16" socket so I will need to go back and purchase the socket wrench. The Cameo tool would work if the ends were bent to 80 degrees.

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[Bigfoot Dave]

My 4 way tire iron has one end that fits the water heater plug. Works good, just don't over tighten. Bigfoot Dave