House battery charging question, 2020 Hawk

[lost73]

Hello Experts,

I've been humbled by my FWC! I left the camper on shore power. Unfortunately, the AC to DC fuse blew. When I came back both of my 6v batteries were gone.

I placed a newish 12v battery and the MPPT read 12.6v, good right? Well the past week it has drifted down to 12.4v. That's fine too. My issue is that I plugged it back into shore power and the voltage has not come back up. I spoke with the factory and I was told that shore power charges the house battery at 30A. Would someone be so kind as to help me figure out why my house battery is not taking a charge? I've checked the two fuses next to the Blue Sea battery link (5A and 10A). Thanks for the consideration!

 

[Beach]

What charging system does your camper have? The Iota has a fuse on the charge output, is it good??

 

[ckent323]

You do not say if you have a shunt based battery monitor. Also you did not say what charging system you have. If you have an IOTA system check all the fuses and breakers. Also is the red (or silver) knob pulled out?

1) If you do not already have a battery state of charge monitor such as a Victron BVM-712 I strongly recommend getting one. Using voltage levels to determine the charge state of your battery can be inaccurate because cell materials and temperature affect the voltage.

2) Monitoring the battery state of charge and making sure it is charged according to the manufacturer specifications/requirements will help ensure your battery gets a full life.

3) If you are using a lead acid type battery (FLA, AGM, Gel) it is important to fully recharge your battery after discharging before you discharge again and also to not discharge it below about 50% in order to maximize battery life. Conversely routinely failing to fully recharge your battery or routinely discharging it below 50% will shorten the life of the battery, perhaps significantly (Lead Acid only - this is not applicable to LiFePO4)

4) Make sure your charging approach (e.g. ground power, vehicle charging, solar, external generator, etc) and charging system can support the needs of 3) above.

I hope this is helpful

Craig

.

 

[pvstoy]

Might have a view of this video. At 13 minutes into it show and talk about fuse behind the converter. Worth while for you to watch the whole thing.

Electrical System & Batteries - Four Wheel Campers

 

[lost73]

You do not say if you have a shunt based battery monitor. Also you did not say what charging system you have. If you have an IOTA system check all the fuses and breakers. Also is the red (or silver) knob pulled out?

1) If you do not already have a battery state of charge monitor such as a Victron BVM-712 I strongly recommend getting one. Using voltage levels to determine the charge state of your battery can be inaccurate because cell materials and temperature affect the voltage.

2) Monitoring the battery state of charge and making sure it is charged according to the manufacturer specifications/requirements will help ensure your battery gets a full life.

3) If you are using a lead acid type battery (FLA, AGM, Gel) it is important to fully recharge your battery after discharging before you discharge again and also to not discharge it below about 50% in order to maximize battery life. Conversely routinely failing to fully recharge your battery or routinely discharging it below 50% will shorten the life of the battery, perhaps significantly (Lead Acid only - this is not applicable to LiFePO4)

4) Make sure your charging approach (e.g. ground power, vehicle charging, solar, external generator, etc) and charging system can support the needs of 3) above.

I hope this is helpful

Craig

.

Thanks Craig.

Here's my start up sequence.

1. Attach shore power
2. Turn on all 120v breakers
3. 12v master power/pull switch on
4. Leave it on for four hours. No increase in 12v battery levels.

See attached photos for the charging system. It's factory so assume 30A converter.

I'll check the voltage converter fuse. It blew once before.

Matt

 

[Jon R]

You are showing a picture of the Blue Sea ACR (automatic charge relay). Are you clear what that does versus your physically much larger Iota DLS30 charger that is behind the louvered vent in your cabinet? If the inline fuse in the small yellow wire connected to the ACR is the fuse you are talking about, that is different from the fuse in the DLS30 charger that Beach and Craig have mentioned.

 

[Jon R]

Picture of DLS30-IQ4

 

[lost73]

I was not explicit. If the fuse is blow from the 30A converter (the one under the louver) is the only "symptom" a discharging battery? If that's true I'll replace it again.

 

[Jon R]

If the fuse is blown on the DLS30 it won’t charge the battery, and your other camper loads will eventually discharge the battery if the silver switch is pulled (on). So, yes, that symptom is explained.

However, if I’m now understanding you correctly, the DLS30 fuse has blown twice. That likely indicates something wrong with the DLS30 or maybe a wiring issue. I wouldn’t just replace the fuse without at least verifying no wiring problems.

 

[pvstoy]

Did you watch the video I provided above???

 

[lost73]

Did you watch the video I provided above???

I did watch the video. Everything works in the camper when plugged into shore power (ie 12v interior LEDs). The house battery will not charge. I don't have access to a voltmeter until Monday. I want to see what is showing up at the battery.

 

[ckent323]

I agree with John R,

If the fuse has blown twice there is a short or a bad connection or bad part somewhere in that circuit. Time to get a voltmeter and shart checking the circuit for a wiring problem.

As I recall there is a reverse polarity protection fuse in the back of the DLS-30 but it is a PITA to get to.

If the connection to the battery is somehow reversagain ed that fuse will blow and your battery will not charge.

I recommend that you check the all the wiring in the path to the battery(s) and make sure positive is connected to positive and negative to negative all the way (this would include the path to the truck battery too). Given there is a Blue Sea ACR in the path and not knowing what else (resettable fuses - on the order of 80 A - close to each battery hopefully), every connection should be checked.


Here is a link to the manual:

http://www.bestconverter.com/assets/images/Iota/DSLmanual.pdf

 

[Vic Harder]

Aaaand, I will say it again, get yourself a real State of Charge battery monitor. The Victron Smart Shunt is small, bluetooth, and not too expensive. That will tell you a LOT more than a voltmeter.

 

[lost73]

Thanks a ton everyone! How many amps is appropriate for the battery monitor? I'm all thumbs here.

 

[Vic Harder]

how many amps? Not sure I understand your question.

 

[lost73]

The Victeon Smart Shunt has three Amp ratings. I was wondering which (500,1000 or 2000) is appropriate for a FWC?

 

[Jon R]

What is the maximum current you want to be able to draw from your battery or force into it during charging? The largest battery banks in a FWC that i read about here are 200ah lithium, and the current limit for that size of 12 volt battery is going to be in the 300 amp ballpark. I have never read of anyone here using anything other than the 500 amp shunt.