How do you re-center a pop-up if it shifts during a trip?

h2opup

Advanced Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2024
Messages
66
Location
Oregon Coast
The jack legs have been moved and left at home. So how do I re-center my ATC if it shifts in the bed when I am out on a trip?
 
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I have about 1/2" clearance on either side at the tailgate. I bought from McMaster-Carr hardware, clevis to clevis turnbuckles. I have found that if it is too close on one side, I loosen that side's turn buckle just enough to be an able to rattle it slightly. Drive down a rough road and the jostling pulls it over to the tight side.... it can't go far ! Next day I find the road did my heavy work and I re-tighten.
 
I have about 1/2" clearance on either side at the tailgate. I bought from McMaster-Carr hardware, clevis to clevis turnbuckles. I have found that if it is too close on one side, I loosen that side's turn buckle just enough to be an able to rattle it slightly. Drive down a rough road and the jostling pulls it over to the tight side.... it can't go far ! Next day I find the road did my heavy work and I re-tighten.
Clever!
 
I have about 1/2" clearance on either side at the tailgate. I bought from McMaster-Carr hardware, clevis to clevis turnbuckles. I have found that if it is too close on one side, I loosen that side's turn buckle just enough to be an able to rattle it slightly. Drive down a rough road and the jostling pulls it over to the tight side.... it can't go far ! Next day I find the road did my heavy work and I re-tighten.
Thanks buckland. Good hack to know about if caught out on the road with this issue.
 
As long as the turnbuckles are tight I wait until I get home.
Waiting to get back home is my likely choice, too, but what if you are out on a long trip?

My biggest concern to a on-the-road load shift is the drain spigot on the fresh water tank. It was installed with an extremely small amount of clearance -- you can barely twizzle the value lever to open/close the spigot. I mentioned this to Marty at time of delivery -- he twizzled it to show me the operation and he could barely fit his fingers in to get it done. His reply was that this was the same location as the one on his RAM (not the most satisfying answer).

A load shift of 1/2" is going to make it impossible to open the spigot. A shift to the driver's side of 3/4" or more will likely snap that spigot right off. Not to mention this is really threading the needle when loading/unloading the camper onto the truck.

I'm confident that ATC would address this (somehow) in person, but I live many hours away.

Any advice on a self-fix aka taking apart the interior to get at the water tank and moving the value or otherwise adapting the spigot to remedy this problem before it breaks and becomes a much bigger headache?
 

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In a similar fashion each and every time I remove and reinsert my platform the cabinet lids which are separate (hinged to topper) have to line up exactly the same way each time….. though mine is probably easier to get to.

I keyed both sides between the wheel wells and the ends by the tailgate. The 4 foot long keys (2X2’s cut down in width) along the wheel wells are tapped in with a board and 5 pound hammer…..and the eye screws are for attaching a small chain and slide hammer to remove.

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How do you keep the 2x4 in place? I did that but they've moved around and its not really feasible to fix until I take the camper off.
 
In a similar fashion each and every time I remove and reinsert my platform the cabinet lids which are separate (hinged to topper) have to line up exactly the same way each time….. though mine is probably easier to get to.

I keyed both sides between the wheel wells and the ends by the tailgate. The 4 foot long keys (2X2’s cut down in width) along the wheel wells are tapped in with a board and 5 pound hammer…..and the eye screws are for attaching a small chain and slide hammer to remove.

View attachment 181994

View attachment 181995Many thanks for the details and photos.
 
If you are out and about now, there may be someone here who is near you that can help.
After hitting a submerged step in a watery mud puddle in UT our first camper shifted, but nothing was in jeopardy of making contact or breaking off so I left it that way until we got home.

Our Hallmark came to us with that same drain spigot, but it is located on the rear face of the camper down low on the right side. Very easy to get at, but also very subject to UV embrittlement. It failed catastrophically after our second to last trip after years in the sun. Between that trip and the next I replaced it with a valve of similar shape only made from brass. It also has GHT on the outlet so that I can use our sink drain hose to direct the water away from the truck. I also screw a GHT cap on it as a fail-safe and to keep dirt out of the valve.

Seeing those hose clamps in an otherwise inaccessible location compels me to suggest using Oetiker Clamps there instead. I bought a selection of the clamps with the special tool needed (mechanics who've done CVJ boot replacements will recognize the tool) from amazon.
 

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