HQST 100W flex solar panels

[Will.I.Am]

Has anyone bought and used these HQST 100W flex panels? I've read here about the Renogy recall...panels look very similar.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017OMTAV6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2D22KZJD14Y8Y

Thanks for your thoughts.

 

[rando]

I have one of these installed on my land cruiser for the past year or so. So far so good. Given the issues with other flexible panels (including an older one I had installed on the LC using 3M VHB tape) I elected to install it using screws through the grommets so it would be relatively easy to replace this time around. That is probably not an option on the FWC roof though.

 

[Alvis]

no experience with these, but in researching, I kinda like this idea of using corrugated plastic sheet under them to give a bit of an air gap below to improve efficiency (reduced heating).

see this sail boat example: http://dainyrays.blogspot.com/2014/04/installing-semi-flexible-solar-panels.html

 

[timzog]

I bought two HQST 100W flexible panels and installed them on my Airstream roof. They were glued directly to the roof. They both failed within 6 months sitting directly in the UT sun which is probably the worst possible scenario. The aluminum roof of the airstream gets incredibly hot when the sun is shining on it so coupled with a couple weeks of near 100 degree temps, they both failed.

 

[dasadab]

I just bought one yesterday. They get good reviews. I was planning on eventually attaching it with all weather heavy duty Velcro and perhaps running a bead of silicone along the leading-edge. If anybody has any better ideas about installing them so that they can be later removed. I would appreciate it. Alternatively, I may just store it under the mattress and plug it into the external connector that I already have. I have the factory solar on the roof. I just want to get a better handle on storage convenience and usage before I decide what to do.


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[Kodachrome]

I bought two HQST 100W flexible panels and installed them on my Airstream roof. They were glued directly to the roof. They both failed within 6 months sitting directly in the UT sun which is probably the worst possible scenario. The aluminum roof of the airstream gets incredibly hot when the sun is shining on it so coupled with a couple weeks of near 100 degree temps, they both failed.

Yep, they failed because they overheated, I can't even begin to fathom why people are gluing these things onto the roofs.

I have had two 100W HQST panels on the roof my of my camper and they are screwed into the roof using the frame rails so I had to drill holes into the non-cell parts of the panel. There are also some spacers in between the mounting points to allow for a bit of air flow, they have been fine.

I also have a 50W on the air dam of the camper and another 300W of the HQST panels on a slide out / removable rack under the cab over.

I think these panels are fine but one has to be careful to not bend them too much, no gluing to hot surfaces leaving zero air flow & use all the other usual considerations when installing solar.

 

[Will.I.Am]

Thanks everyone, really appreciate the comments. Well, I bought the panel, and thought I had a good plan for installing using my Yakima rack tracks, but now I'm realizing that there would be way too much flex since the tracks are so far apart compared to the panel width.

I'm leaning towards Kodachrome's method of attaching directly to the roof/frame rails...I have the older style, non-smooth FWC roof, so there are sheet metal screw heads, the center stringer, etc that are all sticking up. If I attached directly, probably important to not have the panel sitting hard down on the existing screw heads in particular?

Kodachrome - any chance you could send me a picture of your install? I'm particularly interested in how you did your spacers.

 

[Stalking Light]

Adventure Trailers used 5100C acrylic foam tape to attach the 100w flex panel they installed for me. FWIW

 

[Will.I.Am]

Here's what I think I might try...any thoughts? 1/4 or 1/2 in nylon spacers (6), 1/2 or 2 inch self-tapping roofing screws. I'd like the panel to be as forward as possible due to surfboards and other gear we have up top usually. Still seems a little flimsy...


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[dasadab]

I would personally want to learn more about using self taping screws and spacers. My concern is that the panel will vibrate like crazy on the spacers and the screws will work themselves out quickly. However, this can probably be overcome with a properly prepared technique--pilot hole, fill hole with adhesive, attach screw, cover screw with ? silicone?

I would love to hear how folks avoid self taping screws working loose on a vibrating serface. What products they use, etc.

A lot of folks on the internet seem to use 3M VHB tape.

Here is a link to 3M tape:

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/67100O/3mtm-vhb-tapes.pdf?fn=VHB%20Tapes%20TDS%2011-2015.pdf

 

[Timothy McGowen]

I wonder about wind noise?

 

[photohc]

I think with the air gap, you will get turbulence that will not allow the panel to survive over time. The vibration will break the internal solar cell connections and there are a lot of them.

 

[Will.I.Am]

Thanks all - agreed...the panel needs more support. After reading this great summary of flex panel failure modes, and the advice of Kodachrome on this thread earlier, there appears to be a clear need for air or temp moderation under the panel. Perhaps some combo of 3M tape, or velcro AND screws would work. The 3M tape is interesting, but it doesn't look like it's thick enough to lift the panels over the existing screw heads on the roof. Titanium velcro might just do it, with some screws. I'd like to be able to get the panel off it it fails however, and the 3M tape sounds fairly permanent.

Anyway, thanks for all the input.

 

[dasadab]

I used the velcro on my panels on my Lance trailer. They seemed really secure. This time, on my Hawk, I would use the velcro with dollips of this

:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007EXOONA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=XMZ38MHKKVKU&coliid=I6M59P2U3INAP

 

[PaulT]

Might consider using the grommet holes & screws to hold the panel to a sheet of corrugated plastic and use UHB to hold the corrugated sheet to the roof. If the flutes run front to rear, there should be cooling air flow at least when moving.

http://corrugatedplastics.net/

Paul

 

[rando]

Something like these may also be an option for attaching the panel to the roof without drilling, while maintaining the ability to replace the panel:
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=6434

So far heat has not killed my panel (knock on wood) and it sits out in the Colorado sun everyday.

 

[carld]

I bought two KINGSOLAR 50W Semi Flexible Solar Panel from Amazon in February and connected them in series with a MPPT controller. I made a frame out of 1/8" x 1" aluminum to match the mounting holes of the panels to the roof screws on one side of the roof. I still use the strong arm method of razing the roof. The panels weigh 2.2 lbs each and the frame is around 2 lbs. I just got back from a 13,000 mile trip to Alaska and have had no problems. The panels are mounted flat on the roof. I run the 3-way fridge on the battery, about 8 amps, while driving and didn't turn it off for stops of up to two hours in the day. I think the lowest the battery ever got was around 12.4 V.

 

[Squatch]

Might consider using the grommet holes & screws to hold the panel to a sheet of corrugated plastic and use UHB to hold the corrugated sheet to the roof. If the flutes run front to rear, there should be cooling air flow at least when moving.

http://corrugatedplastics.net/

Paul

I like the idea of the corrugated aluminum on that site. Airflow and the aluminum will probably work as a heat sink to draw heat off the panel.

 

[Vic Harder]

I bought two KINGSOLAR 50W Semi Flexible Solar Panel from Amazon in February and connected them in series with a MPPT controller. I made a frame out of 1/8" x 1" aluminum to match the mounting holes of the panels to the roof screws on one side of the roof. I still use the strong arm method of razing the roof. The panels weigh 2.2 lbs each and the frame is around 2 lbs. I just got back from a 13,000 mile trip to Alaska and have had no problems. The panels are mounted flat on the roof. I run the 3-way fridge on the battery, about 8 amps, while driving and didn't turn it off for stops of up to two hours in the day. I think the lowest the battery ever got was around 12.4 V.

Carl, are there frame sections under the panels too? Looks like a nice removable and light setup

 

[carld]

The frame is under the panels. Its a rectangle the width of the panels 21" by 4' 1" with cross bars every 1' to match the screws on the roof. I reused the roof screws and sealing washer, 8 total, and ran a bead of RTV along each cross bar to seal it and keep it from vibrating against the roof. I used pop rivets to hold it together and be flush with the roof. The panel mounts are #6 screws along the edges that match the panel grommet holes with a nut to hold them. First, I connected the racks to the roof. The panels then go on lining up with the screws using a small wash and self locking nuts. The wire to panel connection is 3/8" high block on the bottom of the panels, so the screws are longer with 1/2" spacers ( in the middle with the panels front to back). This results in a slight panel slope but provides space for the wires under the panels. The panel wires have MC4 connectors so I added matching connectors to the ATC supplied roof connector wires. I used RTV to glue the wires at spots to keep them from moving and used small wire clamps with a dab of RTV to some of the panel mounting screws. The MC4 connector lie on the roof in front with the frame in back of the roof connector, so I used generous amount of RTV to hold the wires and connectors down and seal the connectors.



I had to take it apart once and making a larger frame when adding the second panel in series. The RTV was relative easy to peal off. If a panel were to fail it could b easily replaced without removing the frame. I drove 13000 miles to Alaska and back with no problems.