Hydraulic Leak

[tcorfey]

Well of course every time you fix something then something else breaks.

I cleaned my 8' NCO camper inside and out yesterday and fixed the overhead lights. Just a fuse no big deal.

But when lowering the top at the end of the day the top got stuck on the way down. I jacked it back up and started it down again. but it stuck again so I tightened the valve and pushed up on each corner and the top dropped a bit then I proceeded to lower it again. no problems right? Wrong this morning I found a puddle of hydraulic fluid and the left rear cylinder pumps oil out of the bottom instead of raising the camper. I assume this means my o-rings blew out on that cylinder?

Any other ideas before I tear in to it?

Regards, Tim C.

 

[Ripperj]

Try and determine if oil is leaking by the oring and coming out the top of the cylinder, or out a split in the cylinder near the bottom (very common)

 

[Rusty]

Try and determine if oil is leaking by the oring and coming out the top of the cylinder, or out a split in the cylinder near the bottom (very common)

what he said....

fold a paper towel till you have a strip about 3/4" wide.....wrap it around the cylinder just below the nut....now hold that pose for a few minutes....most likely less if its an oring....try tieing the towel off with a zip tie and then pump.....

 

[tcorfey]

Every pump gushes oil from the bottom of the cylinder. So I guess I can assume that the cylinder split. So I guess that means I remove the cylinder. That's going to be fun. Pump has to come out first then, the cylinder. Any success repairing the cylinders? or do I need to get a replacement?

 

[Rusty]

block the top and you can disconnect the cylinder from the line. at the bottom of the tube there is either a flare fitting or a compression fitting. The tube releases from the wall at the top and several locations along its length. No need to remove the pump

paper towels....lots of paper towels

tubes can be braised as long as it's not a break on the fitting...and even then a good mcgyvering will often take care of it.....if the tube has a long split, it might be a replacement issue...pictures

 

[tcorfey]

Okay I will give it a shot this weekend. The reason I think I need to remove the pump is because it is 1/4" away from the cylinder and the fitting is on the back of the cylinder. I don't know how I can get to that fitting without removing the pump. Copper tube is run to the fitting.

Thanks for the advice so far.

 

[Rusty]

a picture?....something doesn't sound right

check the height of the cylinder just opposite...on the right side....Same height, floor to the bottom of the cylinder?

"1/4" away from the pump" doesn't sound right...usually the fitting is on the front of the tube and easily accessible....My imagination says the tube has come loose of it's mounting on the wall and been forced down next to the pump.......a picture would help...1000 words and all

 

[tcorfey]

I will try to get a picture but remember this camper is 1958 vintage and the guy who owned it before me told me he redid all the hydraulic lines recently. Perhaps he did something wrong? We shall see...

 

[tcorfey]

Okay it was an easy fix. Rusty you were right. The bottom bracket to support the cylinder was missing. So the cylinder slipped down and the resulting pressure on the hydraulic fitting caused it to break. Cost is one hydraulic fitting and make a new bracket to support the bottom of the cylinder.

 

[Rusty]

A true "Karnac" moment....glad it worked out well

Typically the bottom of the cylinders are supported by a 1-1 1/2" strip of plywood on end, extending to the floor and attached to the wall of the lower half (check the length with one of the other 3 locations)...the bottom of the cylinder flange will be ground or cut off next to the tube....the flat side goes against the wall with the cylinder resting on the top of the plywood strip and screwed to it with screws through the flange on either side. It's not uncommon to find parts missing...getting them back in the right spot is sometimes a trick.

 

[tcorfey]

Hi Rusty, thanks again for the insights. My cylinder has the nipple coming out the bottom of the cylinder rather than the side of the cylinder. So I think the guy before me tried to set half of the mount on to the plywood strip and then use a brass strap to hold it in place. He used small nails to hold the strap in place. Well the nails on the brass strap let go and the tube fell off the plywood.

To prevent this from happening in the future I modified a piece galvanized angle from a strong tie bracket. Using a pair of sheet metal cutters I cut a slot in the center of the bracket to slide the nipple in to then I supported half the bracket on top of the plywood and used four screws to hold it on the wall. So the new bracket is supported by four screws and half of the bracket is on the top of the plywood strip for additional support. Then I put a new strap on the tube with two screws holding the strap in place.

Now the base of the cylinder is supported on both sides and the tube is prevented from moving side to side or fore and aft. I think this will hold up much better then the old mount. The great news is the cost to repair was about $7.00 not too bad.

Thanks again!

Tim C.

 

[Rusty]

Well done!

another construction guy I see

and frugal as well