Isotherm Refrigerator in New FWC

[Lighthawk]

I have moved my comments about installing a Dometic compressor fridge here to keep this thread on topic.

 

[SeatoSea]

Same problem with the light. I think the door is racked, but upon closer look it's almost impossible to adjust hinges. I'm a little nervous to pull the cabinetry apart. Have a call into the distributor, will let you know.


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[billharr]

Same problem with the light. I think the door is racked, but upon closer look it's almost impossible to adjust hinges. I'm a little nervous to pull the cabinetry apart. Have a call into the distributor, will let you know.


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You adjust the latch, not the hinge. I have a post somewhere on how to do it. Here is the post on how to adjust.

 

[larryqp]

I have been reading many of the various refrigerator threads and have gained a lot of knowledge. The main thing I think I learned is we all use our refrigerators slightly different and how they are use impacts battery drain (ie current over 24 hours). I think I also figured out that it really comes down to the fact that if you have a large compressor refrigerator/freezer, you really need to invest in a large solar array and a large battery storage capacity.

We had a Dometic portable compressor cooler CFX 65W dual zone for almost 3 years in our Ford Ranger/Eagle Shell combination. We primarily used it "overland" style when camping (80% of the time) and also as a spare freezer refrigerator when we were not camping. The CFX 65 worked great as all freezer or all refrigerator, with a small variation in temperature from one side to the other. But as a freezer/refrigerator there was a significant variation in temps. Example Unit set at 4 degrees with divider in place, Freezer was 4 degrees, the center area was 35 and the far right upper area was 46. Having the unit set at 4 degrees, tended to suck some juice. Setting it any higher raised the temperature of the far right above what I though was safe for food. I had 175 watts of solar, and 2 - 12volt 100 Air AGM batteries. We did fine for 4-5 days with minimal driving and full sun. It is rated by Dometic at 45.6 amps in 24 hours at 90 degrees ambient temperature. The other draw back was although chest style refrigerators don't allow as much cool air to escape, we often had the cover open for long periods and we removed stuff on top to get to the stuff on the bottom. The Ranger/Eagle combination is now in that big campground in the sky.

I have a Hawk shell on order to mount in a 2016 F150 FX4 supercab. Due to changing circumstances we will probably use the new camper truck combination less as an overland camper and more as a travel camper/State Park camper. I'm guessing 70% road-30% overland camper. So we are strongly considering a cabinet style compressor Refrigerator. We want a large freezer, we like to prepare meals at home and freeze them, so we have easy cooking days after driving or long days of hiking.

So here is what I am considering and would like folks to weigh in on. The one caveat is that I am assuming the unit will fit, based on the refrigerators FWC installs, this unit appears to be the same height as the large one in the FWC factory models.

- Isotherm Cruise Freeline 115 Elegance 4.1 cu ft (116 L) danfoss compressor unit. It has a 83L Refrigerator and 32 L freezer.
Rated at 22 amps/24 hours on 12 volts dc, AC/DC powered. I'm a bit skeptical about the rating but even at double, 44amps, it's no worse than my other unit.
- 2 x 6Volt 260 Ahr AGM batteries, Renogy has a big sale right now until 9/22/19
- Depending available roof space somewhere between 160 - 200 watts of solar

The manufacturer recommends two, 31 sq inches vents one at the bottom and one at the top of the cabinet holding the unit. Since I have a shell and no outside vents I'm thinking I will have a 1.5" x 20" vent top and bottom plus I will consider cutting a hole in the bench of the Hawk under the refrigerator for a fan. Probably this unit from eTrailer.com Valterra FridgeCool Automatic Exhaust Fan for RV Refrigerators - 12 Volt. I'm thinking I'll need some bug screening over the fan. I will also add additional insulation around the refrigerator.

If anyone has any first hand knowledge of this Refrigerator, that will be greatly appreciated and of course any insight into what I may have missed, will also be appreciated.


Thanks in advance

 

[ckent323]

General comment FWIW: Door vs chest orientation for a given refrigerator (same size, same components) does not matter much. The thermal mass of the air that comes out of an open door refrigerator is small compared to the thermal mass of the refrigerator walls and interior, particularly if it has stuff in it that is cold. Of course, if you have to unpack stuff and put in the warm air while you access things underneath and then put those items back in that have warmed a little will make a difference.

Better to focus on capacity, operating current draw and convenience of the door opening orientation (cold air spilling out really makes little difference to keeping things cold if it is a door vs hinged lid).

Have you considered a dedicated separate 12V freezer unit and a separate dedicated 12V refrigerator unit each sized to suit your particular needs? I wonder if overall power efficiency might be improved.


Regards,

Craig

 

[radarcontact]

Just for more info/comparison, I have a Dometic 110L 2-way. When the compressor is running it uses ~4 amps. I have decent battery capacity and a big solar array, but despite that I think the frig is very efficient. I set the thermostat about halfway between off and full, and everything stays very cold. Ice in the freezer and my ice cream sandwiches are delicious LOL. The 110L can fit a LOT of stuff. I think the frig is well constructed and has excellent insulation. At night when things cool off outside it runs very little. Been happy with it. The compressor has a very soft whirr that can double as a sound machine .

Also wanted to mention...Dometic has (with me) been VERY good about replacing/sending parts for faulty equipment. I have two Fantastic Fans that were original equipment, both motors were extremely noisy and annoying. Called them on the phone, they didn't even question when I purchased the fans (camper). Said all I had to do was pay shipping ($15) and they would send me two new motors, which they did. Had another issue with the lid on one of my fans where it cracked when I tightened it down - same thing. Called them, no questions. Mailed me a new lid ($50+ on Amazon) at no cost OR shipping fees. They've been excellent to work with and I would not hesitate to buy their products, including their refrigerators, again.

 

[DanT]

Do the Isotherm units as installed by 4WC have the Isotherm Smart Energy Control kit?


http://www.isotherm-parts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_19_44&products_id=2107&zenid=65fd41eee1c1149948dc7392e6a90f28


http://www.isotherm-parts.com/PDF/spec_sheets/Isotherm_Smart_Energy_Control_Kit.pdf

I'm in the midst of a bad problem with a unit with the Smart Energy Control Kit and based on my experience would avoid. I purchased a 2015 Grandby with a Dometic 2 way 110 L unit. Great first season but by the end of the second season could only maintain 40 degrees if it was 45 degrees outside. Bad Luck I guess ? By the third season FWC had gone over to the Isotherm units and the feed back was very good so I looked into them and I said to my self if I'm gonna do this I want the most energy efficient unit out there. So I came across the award winning technology of the Smart Energy Control and said wow, this sounds like the ticket. So after contacting Isotherm I learned that the SEC was only compatible with their 12 volt only units. So I said what the hell, my camper has a converter and the extra ware n tare on the inverter will be off set by the frugal energy consumption when self-contained camping which is 90% of the time. So I bit the bullet and lived to regret it. The unit is quite, uses very little energy but won't go below 45 when its hot out and ice is out of the question. Back and forth with Isotherm (they were helpful) and they finally sent me the original factory thermostat and asked me to remove the SEC and restore the unit back to the original factory control system. I also got the impression that they were not overly surprised. That was at the end of last season so I've yet to do the conversion and I've purchased a 12v only unit with no advantage. When I hear about leaving ice cream out for 5 minutes to be able to get a scoop into it I want to scream. Other then this issue my camper has been awesome.