Issues to be Aware of

Wallowa said:
No doubt that wire should have been routed away from any exhaust section to prevent melting..ugly indeed. The burnt wiring is a big screw up for certain; big time error.

As for Cuervo's observation that the tech was not capable of installing the turnbuckles, I believe you missed something. When we picked up our '16 Hawk the owner handed me the turnbuckles and told me how to install and tighten them and he did this for a damn good reason: So that I would know how to re-tighten them and check them periodically. He even had me plug in the electrical connector between the Hawk and the Tundra; I know that was done right. My stance is that doing as much as you can on your own makes you more aware of issues before they get bad and helps you trouble shoot and fix what does go bad.

I found the dealership in Tigard to be first rate but I also assumed the responsibility for my rig and FWC when I drove out of the dealership . Just my approach but I have found less disappointments and fewer "break-downs' by getting hands-on and learning to maintain and understand the systems and mechanical aspects of the Hawk and my Tundra.

This forum really helps in presenting the nuances of what works and what doesn't; but being an off-road oriented seeker, I need to be as self-sufficient as possible to avoid being stranded or not enjoying the get-aways. Few service centers out in BFE.

Aussie...please post [photo?] how you routed the wiring or shielded it...I am interested.

Thanks,

Phil
Thanks for your observations Wallowa, and to be fair I must clarify the reason why the tech was unable to install the turnbuckles... the internal space wherein the bed brackets and turnbuckles connect is extremely small, only with considerable contortion of my scrawny frame can I reach into the spaces to tighten the screws. I custom fabricated a wrench specifically used to grip the turnbuckle body and turn them, takes 4 moves for a full rotation. It's the price I pay for the internal bed mounts, but I happily do it over having the ungainly outside frame mounted attachments. The tech didn't want to use the internal bed bars because it was to difficult to install but I insisted.
 
Thanks for your observations Wallowa, and to be fair I must clarify the reason why the tech was unable to install the turnbuckles... the internal space wherein the bed brackets and turnbuckles connect is extremely small, only with considerable contortion of my scrawny frame can I reach into the spaces to tighten the screws. I custom fabricated a wrench specifically used to grip the turnbuckle body and turn them, takes 4 moves for a full rotation. It's the price I pay for the internal bed mounts, but I happily do it over having the ungainly outside frame mounted attachments. The tech didn't want to use the internal bed bars because it was to difficult to install but I insisted.


Yes, it is tight fit...my '16 Hawk only clears the wheel wells in the bed by 1/2 inch on each side...I agree on internal tie downs...they installed internal bed plates per the directions of FWC inside the Tundra bed...it takes laying down and feeling the work to check the turnbuckles, but only having to do that twice was not a big deal....the angles and all mounting plates seemed spot on and the access doors where correctly positioned to get to the turnbuckles...

I assume the "internal bed bars" [which my steel bed also has] was primarily to stiffen up under and above an aluminum Ford bed?

Checking the turnbuckles before and during trips is just a standard routine for me...peace of mind!

Phil
 
Vic Harder said:
Fasgun Derringers. They work great!
Vic,
So you must have ordered the 14.5" to 21.5" length? That seems a bit long for my application. I have the aluminum turnbuckles from the installer for a Fleet on a Nissan Frontier. I haven't measured them, but it seems that they tightened down to less than 12".

Mike
 
Mine are are about 10" when closed. This can be shortened or lengthened by buying new 1/2 forged eye-bolts and cutting them to size.


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