Just Bought a Vintage Alaskan 8' NCO and I Have Tons of Questions!

[Grrlartist]

<<more photos on page 2>>>


I recently purchased a vintage Alaskan 8' NCO camper. No title, and the seller didn't even know it was an Alaskan. He had only owned it for a few months, but from all appearances the previous owner took pretty good care of it. The interior is in decent shape and has what appears to be the original seat cushions in very good shape. Rather than having a table top that becomes the base of the bed, each cushion has a thin piece of plywood in the back, and the cushions lie across steel tubes to form the bed. There's no table or any indication of brackets for a tabletop. Lower cabinets are a pale color that I would describe as ash (?), not sure if it's a veneer or possibly even a really nice laminate. Upper cabinets are birch, as are the walls and (I think) the ceiling. Ceiling has been covered with white vinyl that doesn't appear to be original, but was very carefully applied. The cabinet for the icebox and wardrobe has been painted a sort of yellow/lime green that doesn't look quite as weird as it sounds. Upholstery is an abstract dark blue green and yellow, very bold and rather 70's looking. The appliances are slightly different shades of dark blue, but they look original as well. Everything about this camper looks 1970's or late 60's.

I've been trying to figure out a date, but have not found anything so far. The windows are horizontal sliders with a fixed center panel. Every advrtising picture I've seen suggests this was a new window style in 1970.

So, for those questions.......

 

[Linda N]

Congratulations on your new camper. Sounds like a great find. There are a number of folks who follow this forum who can help with your questions. A great group. Look forward to the pictures.

 

[Grrlartist]

1) The hydraulics do all work, but the back comes up more slowly, and I haven't gotten it to extend fully, though the seller did (he had to push the back half up and I don't have the strength to force it). This makes me think I need to repair/rebuild the hydraulics? He insisted if the truck was sitting perfectly level the roof would raise perfectly, but I got it pretty close to level and it still dragged in the back. I didn't want to force the issue and possibly do damage. What's my next move?

2) Speaking of getting it perfectly level, is that critical for getting the roof to go up? It kind of makes sense to me that it would be important just to reduce the strain on everything, but I'm not sure.

3) The door handle is there, but the locking cylinder is missing. I thought this meant that the door would not lock, but somehow, the first day I had it, I managed to lock myself out. LOL! I got in by removing the upper door glass to access the tube that lets you open the upper when the lower door is shut. Weirdly, though, that did not work to open the door. Eventually I stuck a long thin rod into the lock and it popped open. It hasn't happened again, but I wasn't able to figure out how I tripped the lock in the first place. So ~ do I need to take it to a locksmith to get the cylinder replaced, or should I just buy one of those replacement handles that I saw on one of the vintage supply sites?

Thanks for reading my excessively long post, I am just excited and as you can see, full of questions! I am pretty handy but not a mechanic by any means.

Oh, yeah, one more question ~ I saw in one of the other threads comparative weights of different models, and it showed the 8' NCO as being about 800 lbs. for a utility version and 1250 for a custom. What's the difference in the two models?


Thanks!


Jo

 

[Grrlartist]

Thanks Linda, I am pretty psyched! the seller had it listed as "slide-in pop-up camper" and he thought it was made in 1999. I think this is why it didn't sell instantly. I had not had it home for one day before a passerby stopped to ask me excitedly if it was an Alaskan because he'd never seen one in person (!). Somewhere along it;'s life, somebody had removed all the badging on it. I've got a couple pictures that I will post.

 

[Oryguntroutbum]

Congrats on the purchase. The tables were never intended to be used on the bed from the factory. They actually attached to the ceiling with some brackets and a brass compression knob. Makes sense that you would not be able to see those brackets if the original ceiling has been covered.

The top should go up and down regardless of it being level. Probably best to change out o-rings and fluid. It's not that scary and there are several threads available.

Additional things to check would be the Pirelli seals on both the top and bottom portions. They tend to only last about 5 years ago and then will degrade. They are a must have for keeping wet and cold out.

With the windows you are describing I would think your camper is from the 70's.

Good luck.

 

[Grrlartist]

Thanks Troutbum! I was hoping that perfect level was not required for lifting the roof, just because sometimes it isn't easy to achieve. Like I said, the previous owner did not even know the camper was an Alaskan, and I don't think he owned it for very long. I had seen there are discussions of changing o-rings and fluid, I will delve into that soon.

Also, does anybody know how many emblems should be on the camper? I saw sets of 3 emblems for sale on EBay, but I'm not sure where they would go. I see where one emblem should be on the passenger side, and I would assume above the back door from photos I have seen, but is there supposed to be a third? Would it go on the driver's side?

 

[dakeddie]

I'm my friend's camper, the table is in fact used to support the bed and it looks very much factory. In his camper, there is no other provision to store the table. So you either have it as a table, with seating, or you have a bed.

I also know of an Alaskan where the table is stored vertically against the front wall effectively blocking the window so you can't use your rear view mirror.

In my camper, the table is stored on the ceiling and I have hardwood slats to bridge the gap between the two seats. I think this is the most common, but I'm pretty new the Alaskan game myself.

You will find that no two Alaskans are the same, each was a custom build.

For the raising level problem, you might try lubricating the slides before you replace the orings.

 

[PackRat]

The Alaskans are a breed unto themselves....with that comes different issues than some campers have. In no particular order here:
1) The vinyl interior roof may be cosmetic or may be to hide the common stains that the original wood gets from leakage. That should be addressed ASAP. You will find threads here about using a butyl sealing where the roof vent is attached and at the front/rear trim as well as the windows. This is a common problem after 30+ years of heat/shrinkage of the original sealant.
2) Preventative Maintenance might include changing the "O-rings" on each of the four hydraulic lifts...again, you can find a "How-To" here for that as well.
3) The water tank/piping/pump all may need cleaning and possibly a new hand-pump or rebuild.....read up on that also.
4) Check the sink drain plumbing and discharge hose as well.
5) The "ice-box" is probably just that: you carry ice (check the drain again!) or water frozen in milk jugs or "Blue Ice" or something.
6) The stove is propane and you need a tank for that. If you have an original tank it may need recertification or a "Get Out Of Jail Free" card if it can't be fitted with a modern valve.
7) You may have gotten two wire-crank-up three legged jacks. Be VERY careful in loading or unloading as balance is everything. After while you may opt for four corner jacks but you'd need a friend to help with that also....slow is the key word here.
8) The original Pirelli seals probably are shot...that keeps cold air/bugs from entering between the top and bottom side walls...
9) Last but not least: The wiring on the Alaskan is unique, it can be set up for 12 volt or 120 but it has 12 volt wiring for the running lights as well. Read up and if you are electrically challenged, ask a friend to look at the diagrams here to help sort it out. Sometimes just proper grounding is all you need.

Sounds like a lot...but they were built well back in The Day.....that being said, dry rot is the worse enemy of an Alaskan!

Recover the cushions if they are OK and maybe get a 2" memory foam topper or buy new foam rubber and make new cushions. Be sure it has enough "cush" so you aren't laying on mostly plywood!

 

[Grrlartist]

Thanks thanks thanks for the insights! I managed to get the roof mostly up today. I notice what is happening is that if I just use the jack, the front goes up and the back trails it by 4 or 5 inches. If I keep adjusting the back as I go by manually lifting, I can get it pretty much to the top. As long as the back is only an inch or two lower than the front, I can lift it pretty easily and then it will stay in place. Obviously not how I want to leave it, but it does let me get inside to work on and inspect other things.

Also, I found a date on the inside of the icebox that says "installed and inspected January 2, 1969". I know that doesn't absolutely date the camper, but between that and the window style, it seems like it was made sometime during 1969 or maybe '70 (the first ads I have seen for the sliding windows are dates 1970)?

Oh yeah, and I do have what I think is the original propane tank, which is the normal height but skinnier. I'm hoping my propane guy can read the past certifications to give me a likely date of manufacture.

Also, on the back of the camper there is a State of California tag with the following info (in parenthesis is the printed info, not in parens is the stamped info) : (M) 97 (S) 717 (PLG) X (HTG) X (EL) (D)19672. Any thoughts on what any of this means? Right next to it is an Recreational Coach and Equipmnt Association tag that has places for serial number and manufacturer, but it's blank.

Have I mentioned how grateful I am for finding this forum? What a fantastic source of info, thanks everybody!

 

[Rusty]

Well, congratulations....I can see your prepared to get your hands dirty already...very good

first things first.....It's much cheaper to get a new lock from vintage with new keys...the square shaft will fit into the interior portion of the existing lock

the camper doesn't have to be perfectly level to operate the jacks....it does make things a bit easier but not at all necessary....like has been said already..be prepared to replace the o-rings first...that will set a start date for you..as they have to be replaced periodically. Brian at Alaskan can help you with the o-rings...small diameter cylinders is probably what you have.

pirelli replacement will probably be on your list too....it helps keep dust and wind out during travel and keeps things a bit warmer when your out winter camping

interior photos will assist with the appx dating but it does look like an early 70's...it sounds like someone has already "adjusted" the interior...that happens

The table top does come in handy....and it does serve as a bed platform on the side dinette configurations...not on the forward dinette....periodically you will see them...and salvage campers have them....so keep your eyes peeled

emblems are one of those things that were applied as the particular manufacturer chose...typically there were 3 on the nco'...one on each side forward edge and one on the door......cab overs have an additional one on the front of the CO upper section...but not all have them there..again it seems to have been a MFR's perogative

I'll second pack rats #7....cable jacks.....as soon as you can...replace them with corner jacks...reico titans or similar..atwood made some, Bock made some with square block drives as well.....just be extremely careful with them...the jack support shelf isn't quite wide enough to provide good stability...

Photos will reveal the wood type...

again...congratulations...and welcome

 

[Grrlartist]

Thanks for all the help ~ I have pics on my phone, now I just need to download them and post them here ~

 

[Grrlartist]

Here's the driver's side view. At first I thought I wanted to make it look more "classic" (more wood, and change the features to resemble a 50's vintage camper), but honestly the early 70's vibe is growing on me. I do really, really like the dark blue appliances ~ and they appear to be in pristine condition. Not a fan of the cheesy contact paper in the galley area ~ but not sure what to replace it with. Maybe just plain brushed aluminum?

 

[Grrlartist]

Passenger side rear. This is an icebox, not a fridge, of course. This cabinet is where you can see the yellow/lime paint on the cabinets. That is NOT staying! I have to say though, I love this wild fabric on the cushions, and they look like they are brand new.... Even the foam is in great shape....

 

[PackRat]

Hmm...since the wood on the rear door panel is often where you can see water damage.....and it looks like yours isn't stained or swollen, you may find that the PO just put up the "wallpaper" for a decorative touch rather than to cover stained or ruined interior wooden paneling. Maybe try a hair dryer (AKA = heat gun) to soften and allow you to pull away that stuff. What do you have to lose? Worst case scenario is you have to put back up some stick on "wallpaper" that at least isn't screaming "1970's or something.

More pics please!

OK, the right rear photo shows more paneling that does not show stains in the corners....looking good!

 

[Grrlartist]

A close-up of the upholstery. It does kinda look like a "modern" 1970's greeting card, doesn't it? The striped fabric is a set of curtains that somebody made much more recently to go with. They're also in really great shape, but I'm not sure how I feel about the combination. Some days I like it and some days I don't!

 

[Grrlartist]

Last photo for now ~ This diagram is glued to a small piece of birch paneling that was in a drawer ~ I can't figure out where it is supposed to go. The corners are rounded and it is about 4" x 10". The image is really yellowed badly (tried to clean up in photoshop with moderate success) ~ but I'm assuming this is a wiring diagram? Also found a small electrical box in cabinet above the sink that just says "15 amp" on it. I can't get my head in there to find out more. Oh, and I found what I think must be the electrical "pigtail" that looks lik it's supposed to allow you to plug into shore power and also draw 12 volt? How would that even work? Next time I am in the camper I willl get a shot of it, too....

 

[Grrlartist]

Hmm...since the wood on the rear door panel is often where you can see water damage.....and it looks like yours isn't stained or swollen, you may find that the PO just put up the "wallpaper" for a decorative touch rather than to cover stained or ruined interior wooden paneling. Maybe try a hair dryer (AKA = heat gun) to soften and allow you to pull away that stuff. What do you have to lose? Worst case scenario is you have to put back up some stick on "wallpaper" that at least isn't screaming "1970's or something.

More pics please!

OK, the right rear photo shows more paneling that does not show stains in the corners....looking good!

If the ceiling turns out to be badly stained, I'm thinking I'll pull it down to inspect for damage, and if it isn't refinish-able, I can put up some faux ceiling tile wallpaper..... or even just paint the ceiing panel if it can't be made pretty again....

What's best to replace the ceiling insulation ( kind of assuming the insulation will be trashed about 40+ years in the desert.... ) The rigid foam, or is there something better? I did see that somebody had very carefully caulked the top back edge, maybe to forestall roof leaking....

 

[Grrlartist]

Okay, I found one more shot ~ this is looking forward with the roof only half lifted.There's definitely some decay there of some kind.... I tried to get a better shot so you can see what's happening. It doesn't look that severe to me, but I'm assuming it will just get worse if not addressed..... any thoughts?

 

[PackRat]

As they say..."I've seen worse!"
Read more threads on restorations here and yours looks better than many from what I can make out in the pics!!! Oh yeah, read up on the WEIGHT and the GVW info on the door jamb of your truck to see if you are OK there....worst case scenario is some kind soul here will give ya a pointer to two on shocks and springs if you have a 1/2 ton and not a 3/4 ton P/U. Post a pic of that VIN info and the guys can translate that into English.

Get the exterior sealing job done and then get inside and remove the wallpaper and see whatt's what. What you can live with cosmetically and what may be in rough condition...your AK looks really pretty good so far....

Yes....that is "a wiring diagram" but your layout is different (sink/oven & stove locations) so it is a guide not the gospel. Find the manuals posted on WTW and the one identified as for a "1968" will illustrate the pig-tail you found....lucky you! Enlist anyone you know with some electrical know-how and you can test the system with that and access to "shore power". You should also find a smaller socket at the same location for a 12-volt system. The manual will tell you about that powering up the running lights and also how to use the pig-tail to power up the system in 12 volt but you will need 12-volt bulbs....don't forget to swap 'em back to 120 volt if you go back to shore power though!

Anyway, more pics will help the guys who have done restos help identify things in them...a wealth of "been there, done that" knowledge here you can tap into but first....spend time on the WTW AK forums and read EVERYTHING as you will figure out a lot just by doing that. Carpenters have a saying, "measure twice, cut once"....with your new2you camper "read twice, then decide" and by that I mean read the WTW and take notes and then decide how to proceed

Oh, and remember when you raise the roof to reinstall the "pins" and back off on the pump to let them hold up the roof rather than your system!

I managed to get mine to stop leaking, get the stove and the electrical system working and the water and went out and USED it....how far you want to go depends on the condition of your AK and how far you want to go in your restoration....and the cost!

...and now is a great time to remind you to get extra keys for the truck and the AK made and safely stashed where you can get to them in case you get locked out/lose your keys out in Timbuktoo!

 

[Rusty]

some creative interior decorating....from what I can see...the one corner looks real good and your back door as well....so far so good....

the small piece of thin plywood with the electrical diagram used to be the cover for an electrical circuit breaker box...it slid in a narrow slot to form a sliding door

van gogh-ish cushions..... and lime green/yellow paint wake up to that in the morning...

the front-top-bottom edge....is damage done from driving in rain and not having pirelli in place...the water also wicks back to the plywood.....damage not so bad....use some CPES penetrating epoxy on it to stabilize the wood....you should be good to go

then...pirelli and o-rings....clean the guides well...some folks have wiped grease on the tracks in an attempt to make the top go up smoother...wrong....a little beeswax and turpentine if anything...grease just attracts dust and dirt..making it more difficult to move

Pack rat is right on the money ......

get your forward and rear gutters caulked with some good quality sealant...i recommend urethane....good bonding and flexible

your "ice box" can be replaced easily with a refer....take a look at some of the newer 12v refers....small brushless motors have made 12v very economical with battery use.....and much safer than propane/electric

That wall paper in the "kitchen" kind of grows on you.....really not that bad...I've never seen a blue stove/oven....some one put some time and money into the decorating...those little stove/ovens aren't cheap...and blue...very special order