Levelling blocks

Ronanmd1

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Joined
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133
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Calgary, AB
Hey guys. Curious as to what you are all doing to level your truck at camp. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1437838541.337382.jpgAre you just using standard old blocks under the tires to try to level things out or are any of you figured out a slicker way to get the truck level at camp?
 
I too got those "lego" block kind. They are cheap and work pretty well. The only time I've had trouble is when I'm on something that's not even close to being level; yes Yellowstone, I mean you! :).
 
I just got back from a trip where coarse gravel seemed to be most places I leveled. I used the Lego type of plastic stackable "cribbing" under the tires to level the TC. The coarse sharp gravel under the Lego style blocks broke, chipped, and/or distorted the plastic on the underneath side from the plastic Lego block edges resting on the sharp gravel.
It might be good to take some boards or small pieces of plywood base to be resting on the gravel with the Lego cribbing resting on the wood?
It was mentioned that the plastic cribbing is cheap. It is also lite weight. Both of which are good, but I don't see it as cheap enough to be disposable....

Edit/explanation: Cribbing, as used above, is short for "cribbing blocks".
There are other meanings to the word "cribbing"......
 
Like most, I used rocks, wood and whatever else I could find to level my rig. I spoiled myself and bought these: Lynx levelers, RV Leveling Kit at WalMart. Pack of 10 for ~30 bucks. They do the job, strong, lite and they stack nicely.
 
"I use levelers from Andersen Mfg.
http://www.andersenhitches.com/
They are a little on the expensive side. There is a chock to slid in when you are level and to keep the truck from rolling off. They have a video you can watch. John"

Those look interesting. We use the lego style blocks. We often use them in different heights under different wheels at the same time depending on the situation. I've gotten pretty good at estimating how many blocks are needed to move the level bubbles to the center on both axes. I wonder how the Anderson leveler would work in that situation- you would have to start on one wheel and then add one under the other. I think it could work- would still be trial and error though. The jack version goes up to 7" high- that would be handy.
 
4 2x6s about 18" long with a 45 deg bevel at one end. Works most, but not all, of the time. When they start to crack, I will look into the plastic options.
 
kmcintyre said:
I too got those "lego" block kind. They are cheap and work pretty well. The only time I've had trouble is when I'm on something that's not even close to being level; yes Yellowstone, I mean you! :).
Me too-and things work fine!

Smoke
 
alano said:
4 2x6s about 18" long with a 45 deg bevel at one end. Works most, but not all, of the time. When they start to crack, I will look into the plastic options.
I actually carry 12 2x8s probably about 14" long with bevels on both ends. I find that I can climb about 3 high when they are staggered and I can lock in another stack if I need to go higher (which is more common than not). Having a few large flat rocks lying around always seems to help too.

I had Hallmark put in an access hole down into the passenger side wheel well area (under the dinette seat), great place for storing them.
 

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LookyLou said:
3/4" plywood cut into 9"x12" rectangles.

alano said:
4 2x6s about 18" long with a 45 deg bevel at one end. Works most, but not all, of the time. When they start to crack, I will look into the plastic options.
If you can get your hands on LVL (laminated veneer lumber), it works great for leveling blocks. Sometimes you can pick them up at framing job sites. Or you could even buy an 8' piece and chop it up. I've got a collection of varying thickness, ranging from 1 1/4" to 2" thick, cut with a bevel on one end. They will not crack like dimensional lumber. I even put some primer on my blocks last year when I was doing another paint job and had a wet brush. :)
.
 
Thanks Lighthawk. LVL sounds like a great idea.
Several years ago I made a set of blocks out of Trex decking with little aluminum cleats dadoed across them to keep them from slipping on top of each other, but I curse their weight every time I have to carry them.
gallery_5833_925_4892751.jpg

LVL should save some weight.
 
Yeah, Trex is slippy, almost waxy, and heavy.
The other thing I like about the pack of LVL's I carry is they are excellent jack platforms and can ramp your wheel out of a hole.
They are somewhat bulky, since I carry six of them, but so are the plastic kits. I have a 12"x12" aluminum box on the back of my rig where they store, but I also throw them under the couch next to the door in our Hawk.
 
Blocks are another reason for having 4wheel drive. A number of times I've had to engage 4low just to get up on the blocks. I do camp in some very unlevel areas on occasion. Once I had to use the entire stack on one wheel just to get level.
 
craig333 said:
Blocks are another reason for having 4wheel drive. A number of times I've had to engage 4low just to get up on the blocks. I do camp in some very unlevel areas on occasion. Once I had to use the entire stack on one wheel just to get level.
I usually put the truck in 4X4 when I drive up on my Lynx Levelers, especially when the levelers are under the front wheels.

Once I had to use TWO (2) sets of Levelers (that's 20 blocks total) to level my truck. :eek: I was camped in the White Mts, at the trailhead at the end of the White Mt. Road.
White-Mt_Trailhead_Camp-1.jpg

Usually I don't need more than just part of one set...but I was glad I had TWO sets so I could camp in exactly the spot I wanted to camp. :)
 

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