my mods

2020

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Oct 31, 2014
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110
Here are some pictures of some modest modifications I have made to my 2014 Grandby:

Here's my baby. It sits nicely on my 2006 Ford F150. I installed load bearing shocks (the kind with the spring on the outside) before the camper was installed. No noticable sag even fully loaded. Seems to ride better fully loaded, also. 5.4 liter V8 engine pulls it easily with no strain. Brakes work great. Yes, I have a factory tow package.

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Hard to get a close up of the load bearing shocks but here it is:


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First mod was mounting RotoPax gas can to back of camper. Carriage bolts that came with the RotoPax were too short (the rear wall is TWO INCHES thick!). 2.5" carriage bolts were perfect size. Most of the work was done outside by opening the vent panel for the fridge. Still had to pull the fridge out of the cabinet just a bit to make room to work. RotoPax was positioned so as not to interfere with the door when in the latched open position.

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Second mod was so simple I'm almost embarrassed to mention it. I took the back off from the rollover couch. I'd rather have a bench I can lay back on than a couch to sit on. The back of the roillover couch was so far forward there was barely enough room to lay on it without falling off the edge. I will likely never sleep four people in my camper, and if I ever do, three of them will be women and they'll all be sleeping with me in the cabover bed, so no need for that rollover couch. The brackets to which the back was attached also held the cushions in place, so my tool guy fabricated new brackets from 2' angled aluminum. They look quite nice. My tool guy does very aesthetic work.

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Mod three was to install a bar/handle to the interior of the screen door. I bought one of those RV screen door bars from Camping World, and after installing it we discovered that the door wouldn't close because of the angled aluminum door frame on the camper. So now I had four screw holes in my screen door.The solution: my tool guy fabricated a door bar using some angled aluminum left over from the couch cushion brackets, and a piece of stainless steel tubing he had laying around. Again, he did a very nice job. I am amazed when I watch him make a few measurements and then create stuff before my eyes. This is probably my favorite mod because I use it every time I open the door. It also serves double duty as a towel rack.

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Another pic of the door bar:

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Mod 4: I decided against fabricating a gray water pipe and opted instead to put a valve on the drain hose under the sink. Now I have the option to drain my gray water either outside, or if I don"t want to go out, I can drain it to a container inside, or both (although I can't imagine why I would want to drain it both inside & outside at the same time, but if the need ever arises I can do it!).

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Mod 5 is a mod to the truck. I removed the back seat in the extended cab (a HUGE job - see my previous post on the subject). I told my tool guy that I wanted a flat floor in the ext cab area and also a back wall to make storage easier. This is what he came up with:

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Tire jacks, jumper cables & other equipment I hope I never have to use are stored underneath. Here's a pic from the other side:

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My tool guy is amazing. I tell him what I want, he takes a couple of measurements, tells me what materials I need, then he becomes a whirling dervish and in no time he creates something that never existed before. He even works on my guitars, and I'm damned picky about that. I think I'll give him a rest now, but I'm already mulling over some ideas for additional mods next year.
 
Did the same thing with the handle, forgot to mark along the door at the frame. I re-did the handle and found 4 plastic plugs, no harm no foul

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Looks like nice work.

Keep an eye on those shocks. They do the job but the problem is that the shock mounts on most trcks are not meant to be load bearing. Overload shocks can bend or break the shock mounts.
 
I'm totally making a door handle now. Great idea and great work.

I wouldn't mind having a rollover couch. I know you used some of the parts on the door handle but do you have any of it left over?
 
Ethergore said:
I wouldn't mind having a rollover couch. I know you used some of the parts on the door handle but do you have any of it left over?
I still have the entire rollover couch back assembly. I'll keep it just in case I ever want to put it back on.
 
Very nice mods!

What material did you use to fabricate the sides of the new rear box? Thanks!



Sides are 8" X 1/2" pine boards.

Floor is 1/2" plywood

Bracing underneath is also 8" X 1/2" pine. Bracing conforms to the curves on the vehicle floor. It is very sturdy and will hold any amount of weight I will put on it without sagging. It is carpeted and has aluminum edging. The whole thing is stapled, glued and screwed. Staples & screws were covered with filler material and are invisible under the paint. My tool guy is absolutely anal about aesthetics.

Back is made from 1/8" underlayment plywood. It is also braced in back with pine boards and is very sturdy.

Paint was mixed by hand to match the color of the plastic parts of the cab interior. It still smells like fresh paint.

The beauty of it is that nothing is actually attached to the truck. Gravity holds the floor in place and we used a piece of 3/4" angled aluminum to hang the back from a convenient lip that runs along the back of the cab just under the window.
 
2020 said:
Mod 4: I decided against fabricating a gray water pipe and opted instead to put a valve on the drain hose under the sink. Now I have the option to drain my gray water either outside, or if I don"t want to go out, I can drain it to a container inside, or both (although I can't imagine why I would want to drain it both inside & outside at the same time, but if the need ever arises I can do it!).

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I always wondered why this wasn't standard from FWC. Seems like a no-brainer. I'm going to do the same thing when I finally get my FWC, and my only concern is what happens when the container gets full before I notice it...so I'm going to add another valve between the drain and container-valve so I can remove the container while the sink is still full, then reconnect it and drain the sink.

What do you plan to use for a container? I was thinking a collapsible bucket would be good b/c it can't overflow...just wondering how well the sink will drain since there's no vent, and I don't want a gray water vent inside the camper.

Great job on all these mods! Your tool guy deserves a raise...
 
Nice job on the mods! I especially like your idea about the handle/towel rack mounted to your door. I think I may do something similar, however, I think I'll mount the bar high enough so that my towel can also serve as a rear window curtain.
 
JJ1 said:
What do you plan to use for a container? I was thinking a collapsible bucket would be good b/c it can't overflow...just wondering how well the sink will drain since there's no vent, and I don't want a gray water vent inside the camper.

Great job on all these mods! Your tool guy deserves a raise...
The FWC Ready to Go Anywhere Package included a collapsible 5 gallon water container and a hose for the purpose of draining the gray water. The containers are also available at Walmart for about $5. It has a small vent on top. A smaller container would work nicely - after all, how much water are you going to drain from your sink at one time?

My tool guy is the best.
 
GroovyDad said:
Nice job on the mods! I especially like your idea about the handle/towel rack mounted to your door. I think I may do something similar, however, I think I'll mount the bar high enough so that my towel can also serve as a rear window curtain.
Too high and you won't be able to reach it easily when entering from outside. It's very handy to have something to hold onto to keep the door from swinging open out of reach. Besides, there is already a curtain on the door window.
 
Love the idea of the inside drain... have to see if my Hawk has room :)

If your "tool guy" has spare time I'd purchase a door pull ;) :)
 

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