Need solar controller recommendation

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DonC

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I have an FWC installed 80W solar panel with a SunSaver 6 solar controller. Although FWC installed the optional solar outlet in the back of my truck, I am now told I can't use it unless I upgrade my solar controller. That would have been good information to have at the time of purchase...

I am planning to go to 200 - 240W of solar. What recommendations do you all have for a new solar controller that will handle this load? FWC recommended a larger Morningstar or a Zamp.

Other than upgrading the controller and adding the new panels, are there other things I need to know? What other surprises await me?
 
Don, read all of www.handybobsolar.wordpress.com ,digest it and read it again. You'll end up with a Trimetric TM2030 w/ SC2030 and rewiring your FWC with the proper size wire not the @$#% 10ga that is used. Using the rear connection does not dictate a need for a new controller, it's the output of your panels that dictate the size of your controller.
Cheers
 
I don't pretend to understand any of this and will take a look at your reference. FWC told me today that my current controller will only handle 100W. Since the panel they installed is 80W, I need to upgrade the controller to use the rear plug. This would have been a simple 30 second conversation at the time of purchase - if you get this option, then you need to upgrade your controller to use it.
 
Cliff notes on Handy Bob Solar "companies will sell you nothing but MPPT, even when it does not make monetary sense on small RV systems." Get a 30 amp PWM controller they are cheap. Spend what you would have spent on the MPPT controller on an extra panel, more bang for the buck.


That is what I did I had a 120 Solar in a bag with it small 10 amp controller build in. Bought a 100w Renolgy panel with a 30amp PWN controller. I run the new 100w on the roof and wired around the 10amp controller on the 120w panel. Panel plugs in the remote plug on the camper and they run to the 30amp controller
 
Bill - I've read a lot of good stuff about the Renology panels so I bought one to check out. I thought I would be able to just plug it into the the FWC outlet. However, the Renology panel comes with two plugs - one negative and one positive. How does this plug into the single FWC outlet?

I sent an email to Renology and they responded back with this
"Our panels come with MC4 connectors on the positive and negative wires, which are the standard connector used in the solar industry. The plug that is in your picture (I sent a picture of the FWC outlet) is called an SAE connector. I have not seen any SAE to MC4 adapters on the internet."

So in addition to needing a new controller I'm confused about how to plug the panel in.
 
Get one of the 12 gauge SAE pigtails here:
http://www.solarseller.com/low_voltage_dc_pumps__lvm__teel__accessories__plugs_and_extensions.htm

And add MC4 connectors to the bare wire end here:
http://www.solarseller.com/low_voltage_dc_pumps__lvm__teel__accessories__plugs_and_extensions.htm

Or take one of Renogy's adapter cables and use marine butt splices to patch in the SAE pigtails above.
http://www.renogy-store.com/Renogy-10Ft-12AWG-Solar-Cable-Adaptor-Kit-p/ak-10ft-12.htm
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/ancor-marine--waterproof-butt-connectors--P009_275_004_003

That way you won't invalidate your warranty on the factory cable.
Paul
 
I made an adapter like Paul showed above. only difference is I soldiered the wires and used rubber tape and shrink tube to cover. If I did it again for my mounted cable I would just cut off the MC4 and soldier on the SAE plug.
 
Thanks Paul!

So it looks like I plug the Renologgy cable extensions to the solar panel for two purposes - provide some extension, which I need, and then cut the ends of those off instead of cutting the ends of the solar panel cables off, those voiding the warranty on the panel.

Then attach the SAE pigtail to the Renology extension using the marine butt splices. Or soldier together as Bill suggested above.

Is that what you are suggesting?

I want to add two 100W panels. I assume I connect the panels together in some way, and then use the connection process above for the final plug-in to the solar outlet. I have heard about series and parallel connection but don't really know what that means or which to use.

Lastly, any suggestion on a solar controller? I see Renology has them, is there any reason not to just go with what they recommend? I thought I would just call them.
 
Don are you going with the flex panels or the rigid panels? Two rigid 100 watt panel will be 40+ pounds. I would use the Renology connectors to join the panels. Parallel will give you 12v series will give you 24v and you will need a controller for 24v. Small advantage going to 24v and a MPPT controller but a lot more $$. I am using Renolgys 30amp controller that came in a package. I am sure it is not top of the line and there are some really good controllers out there. I got my package of a 100w panel and 30amp controller for $160 delivered off Amazon. I already had the 120w Solar in the bag.


If I did all over again I might go with two 100w flex panels a Bogart or Sunsaver controller. I might add a Trimetric to my system it is a want not a need. Than said this would cost about 3 times what I have.
 
I am going with the Renology flexible panels. Going to fabricate a light aluminum platform for each and mount to my Yakima tracks.

So re the controller, I need a 30 amp controller for 200W of solar?
 
Ohms law is your friend. Calculator here. I entered 12 volts and 200 watts of power. As you can see current will be 16.66 amps for 200 watts at 12 volts. You could use a 20 amp controller but for very little extra you can get a 30 amp and this will let you add another (portable) panel if you want later.


med_gallery_1903_734_48985.jpg
 
Here is what I have:
Two Renogy 100W rigid panels connected in parallel in combiner box on roof. 4 AWG wire from roof to Morningstar Tristar T-45 PWM controller feeding two 6 volt golf cart batteries in series (=12 volts, 207 amp hours). Renogy panels added 32 lbs to roof.

System runs 2.1 cu ft 12 volt refrigerator (old Norcold), maxxfan, LED lights, laptop & phone charging. Batteries did not go below 85% even with 90° ambient temps.

+1 on HandyBob. He rants a lot, but has excellent information. I started ignorant of solar and DC and he taught me a lot.

Jim
 
My 2014 Grandby has the Zamp 100-watt panel on the roof and the Zamp controller/charger. I also have the rear plug for additional solar. When I placed my order Sean Dempsey suggested that I wait to add an additional panel until after we had used the camper for a season. He said then I could consider additional solar or the wind generator. If I got the wind generator, I would have to have a pole made of threaded pipe and secure it to the camper. If we are only staying in one place great, but if we are moving around, I would have to take everything apart not to mention finding a place to place the generator with its large fins. That seems to be nothing but a big pain in the ___. The extra solar would be great to use to keep my battery charged while the camper is in storage. I have the camper covered so I can't use the 100-watt roof panel unless I pull the tarp back. Off hand I don't remember what size the Zamp controller is. I have an e-mail into Stan and Brenda to see if the controller is large enough to handle the 80-watt solar in a bag.

I'm not electronically minded, so any suggestions would be great. If the controller can handle the 80-watt I'm leaning that way because I can take the panel on trips and use when needed or have it to plug in every 3-4 weeks to charge the batteries. JD
 
PaulT said:
Get one of the 12 gauge SAE pigtails here:
http://www.solarseller.com/low_voltage_dc_pumps__lvm__teel__accessories__plugs_and_extensions.htm

And add MC4 connectors to the bare wire end here:
http://www.solarseller.com/low_voltage_dc_pumps__lvm__teel__accessories__plugs_and_extensions.htm

Or take one of Renogy's adapter cables and use marine butt splices to patch in the SAE pigtails above.
http://www.renogy-store.com/Renogy-10Ft-12AWG-Solar-Cable-Adaptor-Kit-p/ak-10ft-12.htm
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/ancor-marine--waterproof-butt-connectors--P009_275_004_003

That way you won't invalidate your warranty on the factory cable.
Paul
Click to expand...
FYI - My 2014 Hawk came with the pigtails.
 
I am a little out of my area of expertise so go easy on me here.

There are probably more disadvantages to connecting your solar panels in series than there are advantages. The advantage is that more power will make it down the 10 gauge wire that FWC uses. The disadvantage is that you get twice the power of the lowest power solar panel. Now, taking that to the next step, if one solar panel is putting out much less power because of shade, both panels will be at the same lower power output. So just a little shade on one panel can greatly reduce the amount of power you get from the whole system. With one panel shaded, you get more power if they are in parallel than series. I have read that panels in series is popular when none of the panels will ever be in the shade.

You would need a MPPT controller when connecting the panels in series. Again, I don't think this series configuration is a popular method for RVs unless they know they will get 100% sun and no shade.

Steve
 
Or if you call or email Brenda at FWC she will send you the SAE plug "pigtail" for free. Then you have to splice it into the cables that came with the panel. Your son, the mechanic, can do that for you Don.
 
Series vs. parallel, wow reminds me of the early days in hybrid electric converted vehicles. That was quite the debate, and for all that I know it still rages on.

The upside to series is that the existing 10 ga. wire will be much less of a loss source than with parallel unless shaded. Where does it all balance out? I've no clue. If I do add a second panel I will go series for a couple reasons. Cutting off the MC4 connectors usually voids any mfg's warranty. I'm effectively limited to 10 ga. in this use, so upping the voltage rather than the current looks better to me.
 
Since I camp so much in the trees in northern CA, once I learned the issue of series panels, I realized that I needed to go parallel. That being said, I still only have one panel. It just takes a small amount of shade to really knock back the power. Wonder if you could add a switch and pick your configuration? :)

Steve
 
You could go with this, it's a MPPT controler that is rated to 200 watts according to it's specs.
It simply plugs right into the same spot and wires where your other Sunsaver is. It also has a jack where you can plug in their version of a volt meter which they call a remote meter. That's what I did, very easy install. I'll add another 90 watt panel to the roof soon. There's pretty good deal on ebay for both the units together.
http://www.morningstarcorp.com/products/sunsaver-mppt/
 
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