New liner without outer storm flaps?

180pilot

Advanced Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2014
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I have a 99 Grandby with about 3000 cycles on the top. I went up to Woodland to see about a new liner and found out no longer are outer storm flaps used....
I can't Imagine how to cross ventilate in a blowing rainstorm without them?? I made some stand off blocks with wood and Velcro which hold bottoms of flap out 5 inches as an awning. And, at night they allow complete privacy from outsiders looking in. FWC told me they would not make me a liner with the storm flaps, so I'm trying to get along patching what I have.

Are all new users fair weather only campers and don't care if others see into their home at night????

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Take a ride to ATC and check on a new liner from them, They will make you a liner for your Grandby as they did for mine, and they have removable storm flaps, the best of both worlds.

BTW, I fly a 210 Centurion.
 
I think I must have the newer version too. There's the netting, clear window and the vinyl material on the inside. We just kind of open one corner to get a nice breeze. You also get "covers" for the outside if you were hit by a big storm but they come off completely and we just store them in an old foldup chair nylon bag in case we ever need them. They Velcro on to the sides if you need them. Seems to work pretty well.
 
180pilot said:
I have a 99 Grandby with about 3000 cycles on the top. I went up to Woodland to see about a new liner and found out no longer are outer storm flaps used....
I can't Imagine how to cross ventilate in a blowing rainstorm without them?? I made some stand off blocks with wood and Velcro which hold bottoms of flap out 5 inches as an awning. And, at night they allow complete privacy from outsiders looking in. FWC told me they would not make me a liner with the storm flaps, so I'm trying to get along patching what I have.

Are all new users fair weather only campers and don't care if others see into their home at night????
I agree, 180pilot. I use my flaps all the time as little awnings in rain, snow or even direct sun. All Terrain Campers make replacement liners for FWCs all the time and as K6ON says, the new liners have removable flaps--the best of both worlds.

Shopping at ATC will also likely save you a few bucks!
 
I did go by ATC, too.....it's just the look of their operation appears "here today gone tomorrow" sort off. And, they will not use more modern materials, so they told me about 3 yrs ago anyway. They could not offer the composite end lifting plates or newer one piece roof. The wood end plate on my front is cracked on backside from doing lifts below freezing, and has mold on back side where I cannot get at it. I also suspect mold in the fiberglass matting inside the roof. Want newer foam insulation of new roof..

Anyone have photos of the "covers" for the windows, first time I've heard of them????

Doing the FWC refit will be $$$ as new roof and Arctic liner will be needed, I think the quote was around $3000-4000 as I remember.

180 Cessna and a Citabria own me.....
 
180pilot said:
Doing the FWC refit will be $$$ as new roof and Arctic liner will be needed, I think the quote was around $3000-4000 as I remember.

180 Cessna and a Citabria own me.....
Sounds like you are where I was at with my 2002 Hawk. Wanted some of the new upgrades (structure) cost to do was high. High enough that when I penciled it out I sold the 2002 and found a 2013 Hawk with the new panels, new rear door, new roof, insulation and so much more. I did find the 2013 used (6 months old) before I sold the 2002. You may want to do the same.
 
Before you write off ATC, you might look at the ATC forum on here, and see what people say about their ATC, the construction, and customer service. You'll also find lots of pictures.

http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/forum/8-all-terrain-camper-discussions/

I don't own an ATC, nor do I work for them, I have a 96 FWC Grandby, but ATC has been doing all the work on my camper after a couple unpleasant experiences with FWC.

Roger on the airplanes owning you :)
 
If I wasn't an A&P, I'd be in poor house..

I still would prefer the carbon fiber lift panels, perhaps I could put those in myself first. But, that one piece roof looks like a lot less leak chasing, which I'm getting tired of. It is certainly good to get some references, thank you.

The old FWC did me wrong also but was within one year of owning it, about 2000. They used zinc coated steel rivets in all the hinges of the end panels and they all rusted leaving brown stains on bed, and Arctic liner. Took it in to get them all replaced with the Aluminum ones that were supposed to be used. And D---- if they did not replace them with exact same zinc coated. Boy was I pissed, knowing drilling those out a second time would most likely compromise the substrate tubing, I just kept all the hinges and rivet heads coated with Boeshield T-9, which when dried, just left a clear waxy coating that stopped the rusting for about 10 yrs.........

Got to do something soom, getting a lot of pin holes in the folded areas and chasing them all the time with
McNett Seam Seal.
 
About the new models???? I see all those lift struts,???? leads me to believe the new roof is much heavier then mine???? And the struts are right in the way of getting up into the bed area??
 
180pilot said:
About the new models???? I see all those lift struts,???? leads me to believe the new roof is much heavier then mine???? And the struts are right in the way of getting up into the bed area??
I would think the new roof would be lighter. If that is your camper in the top pic you have a short cabover and not the 48 in cabover. My 2002 had the short cabover and was not a problem to lift. The 48 in cabover you are lifting farther back and the struts help. Most owners have added the struts to the outside and FWC is now offering then on the outside. My used Hawk came with the struts inside and they are not in my way.

Bill
 
Yes, my total roof length is 130" and over hang 2' 8". Did not realize new Grandby's dimensions were different.

This looks like "in the way" but suppose one would get used to them. But if constantly used as pull up handles, how do they hold up?

And seems most gas struts last about a year on my SUV rear doors....or work funny in hot or cold weather???

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Just got quote from ATC $ 3100 to replace my problem, and about a month wait.
 
180pilot said:
Yes, my total roof length is 130" and over hang 2' 8". Did not realize new Grandby's dimensions were different.

This looks like "in the way" but suppose one would get used to them. But if constantly used as pull up handles, how do they hold up?

And seems most gas struts last about a year on my SUV rear doors....or work funny in hot or cold weather???

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I believe these can be removed for sleeping but most seem to mount the struts on the outside ends.
 
Sorry about the confusion Stew, I knew the ATC liner has the awnings, I thought you were referring to a new FWC liners.

IMHO, I can't stay dry in a closed up tent in high humidity and rain blowing sideways. Would sweat my butt off. And, my exhaled breath would be condensing on the ceiling when it's cold and raining down on me. Been there done that. Would never have a top without the awnings over the windows for cross venting all night. I did my tour in Nam. I don't want anyone outside watching my every move through a window after dark..if I can possibly help it....
 
Right on Kilroy about inside flaps. They work well. Also, just a commment on struts. I installed mine in side, like FWC does or did. They work well, good quality struts are a must. My girlfriend and I like sleeping close, so I seldom, if ever pull the bed out to full extention. In addition to this, I will simply pop off the driverside strut (bottom end of strut that attaches to the wall) and hang it from the lift panel (the board you push to lift the front up), on a small hook to hold the strut up high and out of the way.
 
KILR0Y said:
The new liner is designed to allow you to open it up a bit. Like another post above, I leave my inside flaps opened up a bit in each corner on each side of the camper for ventilation. If blowing rain happens to come inside of the screen material, it's designed to trickle down the clear material and exit at the bottom of the screen. Really slick if you ask me. Just fyi!

Sent from my SM-G900P using Wander The West mobile app
Similar thing here, if I'm worried about rain while sleeping our out-and-about I'll try to just open the top of the window (by pulling away from the velcro) and leave the sides attached as much as possible. Rain seems to drip down and out so far.

If you want privacy, the Arctic Pak gives a little more. You can have the windows open a little bit more while keeping the Arctic Pak open a little bit less. It's rigid enough that it'll stick straight up (a little bit...). I probably haven't explained that well, but basically you can get more ventilation with less visuals. The windows all open from the top, so if you just open a few inches it's hard to see in unless there's a hill (or something else tall and accessible) nearby.
 
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